20 Most Recent 1992 Honda Civic - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Unless some one has added a block warmer to your Honda it won't have any place to plug into.
Check with a local shop to see if one can be added.

Change the EGR valve and O2 Sensor

It's damn near impossible without the right tools. But it should be located on pass side. close to the wheel. You might have to lift engine up or have a really hard time trying to squeeze your hands throught the little opening in between fender & motor.

Hung up on throw out bearing or clutch fork

Sounds like you may have a short. Check the wires at all friction points. If you notice a frayed wire..repair it with some electrical tape. Replace the fuse and see what happens. Also double check your diagram and make sure you're using the proper fuse.

At a junk yard, anywhere from $500 to $1000 depending on the mileage.

Labour and Parts?? Or just the head gasket?? I can get back to you tomorrow on this when I can go on All data.. They give me labour and parts prices.

If you have no experience with that job,
a repair shop is you only choice,unless
you have friends that are into vehicle repairs.

Follow the top radiator hose to the engine and where it hooks up is your housing. No diagram needed.

Alright, few things you need to do to make be able to pin point what is actually causing the engine not to start. Let see, first of all it could be a fuel pump promblem and for the civic's you can turn your key to the "on" but not starting it to see if you can hear a slight click from where your fuel pump is located which is in the backseat, if you can hear hiss then a slight click after turning your key to on after a few second, then your fuel pump is working. If not check out the fuel pump relay or any fuse pertaining to the fuel pump.  You can do this by switch to another fuse of the apropriate fuse amp. After so, and if the fuel pump cannot be heard with the click or hiss, then it could be your fuel pump.  Secondly if fuel pump is working, and still just cranking, then it could be your ignition coil. If the ignition coild is bad, it wouldn't send spark to the spark plug thus no combustion, and engine would only roll over. So to test this to see if your ignitionc coil is bad.... you can follow this link http://autorepair.about.com/od/troubleshooting/ss/coiltest-manual.htm showing you how to test your ignition coil. If you get no sparks, most likely it is your ignition coil and it will need to be replaced.

The firing order is 1-3-4-2
See diagram below.

It sounds like the fuel pump is slowly losing pressure. But you're in luck. All you have to do is take out the back seat to access the fuel pump. It's a whole lot easier than having to drop the tank. There's actually an access cover. Please rate my assistance and leave a testimonial.

if the "tank" you're referencing is located in the upper right hand area (facing the car with the hood up) directly in front of the driver's side but still in the engine bay, it sounds like it might be the brake fluid reservoir on top of the brake master cylinder. usually if this fluid level drops below the minimum line there is a sensor that would give you indication via a red light on the dashboard cluster. but it might only flash briefly while turning or braking as the fluid "sloshes" inside the reservoir. to top it off you should be safe to add any retail brand of DOT III brake fluid unless you can possibly determine if a previous owner has installed a silicone based or synthetic brake fluid.

This is for auto trans fluid change only....

1Rise the front end of the car and pull E-brake. (Please use a car stand to hold car up )

2.Remove trans drain plug let fluid drain out into a oil pan.
3.Once fluid has finish draining out, reinstall drain plug and lower the car down.
4. Remove the dipstick (yellow loop) from the transmission located on top and in the back of trans. You might have use a flashlight to see it. Dipstick is hard to see if this is the fist time you're looking for it.
5. use a funnel and add 3.1qt of ATF fluids.(auto trans fluids only)
6. Insert the dipstick into the transmission and you're done.
7.Go racing :)


good luck.

You can go to the Libery and they have automotive books they are around 6" thick. You can check there and copy it for about .15 if not i sugest you get a Chilton or Haynes from autozone they cost 20.00 and the book gives you from electrical to vacume lines to even rebuilding the engin step by ste. I know you want it free so check with your libery first good luck

maybe if can get a slim-jim an open it . it going to be impossible to get it open if that dont work .if you do get it open fix the door .

The cylinder has spark and compression and fuel, but what is the compression reading when tested?
It may be a bad intake gasket around this area for this cylinder.(not sure which cylinder).
I'm assuming the spark plugs and all other components for the secondary ignition were inspected or replaced?

I had the same problem, and I found it by running the car in a low lighted area. I saw the spark jumping out of the #1 cylinder wire to the top of my metal valve cover. I replaced my wires and all was well. My wires had long plastic boots that inserted into aluminum tubes. It was an over head cam motor, so there was quite a reach to get to the plug. Anyway, take the wire off, put a spark plug in it. (not the one in the cylinder, leave it there.) get a new plug, or old plug. lay the wire so that the spark plug tip is touching metal. start your car and look to see if the spark is jumping across the gap of the plug or jumping out earlier somewhere along the wire.

I think its not the BEARiNG, its the AXLE that is bent!

The whole assembly will cost you more! At the age of ur beautifull car, try to buy the parts in the wrecking company or refurbish ones, cost less than 50% than new ones!

To remove and installing the Heater Core, check this procedure...

1. Disconnect and plug the heater hoses at the firewall.
2. Disconnect the heater valve control cable.
3. Remove the heater unit attaching nut on the firewall.
4. Remove the dashboard as follows:
   1. Remove the center panel.
   2. Disconnect the wire connectors at the fuse box.
   3. Disconnect the sunroof switch connector, if equipped.
   4. Disconnect the ground cable at the right of the steering column and the power mirror switch wire connector.
   5. Remove the side air vent knob and face plate.
   6. Remove the screws attaching the air vent control lever.
   7. Remove the center panel, radio and heater control head.
   8. Remove the gauge upper panel (4-door) or instrument panel (3-door).
   9. Disconnect the speedometer cable.
   10. Remove the center upper lid.
   11. Remove the side defroster garnishes on both ends of the dash.
   12. Lower the steering column.
   13. Remove the dashboard mounting bolts.
   14. Lift and remove the dashboard assembly.

1. Remove the heater duct.

Fig. 1: Removing the heater duct assembly

1. Remove the steering column bracket and duct assembly.
2. Remove the heater assembly mounting bolts.
3. Remove the heater assembly and remove the heater core.

Fig. 2: Removing the heater case assembly

Fig. 3: Removing the heater core from the heater case


Hope this helps (remember to rate this answer).