Top 20 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Did u check for codes? On pt cruisers the odometer will read out a trouble code if the computer detects a problem with coil, spark etc. If ur checking to see if fuel pump comes on turn ignition on. You shpuld be able to hear fuel pump run for a few seconds and relays click on to start vehicle.

Under PTCruiserLinks.com Cruizin says: "apparently there are two different read-outs for the P1684 fault code and one is: P1684 does not indicate a problem; it's only a status, which indicates that the PCM memory has been cleared within the last 50 ignition cycles. "Done" indicates that no DTC's are present and the procedure is complete. "

By "fire," I assume you may mean SPARK. If the spark is weak, replace the coil pack.

Unplug it directly at horn or remove horn fuse

Lots of great suggestions have been made by other contributors. I just have to go with my own experience and have you check that your electric cooling fan is kicking on. I lived in a hot climate, driving in city traffic, and the brushes in that motor wore out after just a couple of years and kept the car from performing properly at idle due to an overheating engine. Most of my mysterious engine problems went away once the engine compartment was cooling properly again.

Question is contradictory. First you say won't shift out of first gear, then you say won't shift pst second. If the latter is correct, yes could be the 3-4 shift solenoid has failed.

Above oil filter on the back side of engine

hope this helps

Buying a Chilton/Haynes repair manual for your make/model/year would be one of the best investments you could make. It will tell you where the EGR valve is and how to replace it. These repair manuals also have the diagnostic codes. Your vehicle would use the OBD-II code reader.

change the gearbox is the only answer ,ask a local mechanic to confirm faul t first in case it is a inner CV joint

There can be bad connections or broken wires in the system. A defect switch or relays. Just pick up the multi meter and check the voltage from connector to connector to see where you still have and where not. That's how I search the culprit.

Get your hand on a Chilton/Haynes repair manual that covers this vehicle. It will lead you through the process. The book is available at parts stores and Walmart. Or eBay if you're lucky.

Fuses are usually labeled in the fuse block. If not, just check them all. Easy if you have the little plastic removal tool.

so, i guess, you never seen a scan tool> you crank engine and you get DTC errors telling you what failed? crank for 5 seconds, bingo????? now cranks means cranks ok. good. so spark got spark on all cylinders, that be next if yes, test fuel works does it?

What confused me about the PT when I first got one is that, unlike other cars I had owned, there are fuses in two locations - under the dash and under the hood. I am making a wild guess that you have checked for a bad fuse in one of those locations and have overlooked the other. If you are changing a dash fuse, the access panel cover (by the driver's knee) has a diagram molded onto the back side of it. If you are changing one of the fuse/relays under the hood (square black box next to the air cleaner), the power distribution panel's cover has a diagram printed or molded inside it as well. Each diagram is only for the fuses/relays under that particular cover. The diagrams are plentiful and easy to find with a Google search, so I won't post any links. Good luck!

(From ptcruzer.com: http://www.ptcruizer.com/computer-codes.html ) The 605 code may be a possible glitch in the computer's ROM (Read-Only Memory). To try and clear it, disconnect the battery, cycle the ignition a couple times , and also hit your brake pedal That will drain any residual power left in the system. Reconnect the battery after about 5 minutes, and start the car. Let it run for a bit, shut it off and then pull codes again. The 700 code may be transmission-related. This might be a glitch too, but look for any other codes after you get past the first 2.

Flat blade screw driver, and wrap a rag around the tip, stick it down into the sparkplug hole and suck up the fluid. Don't take out the sparkplugs while doing this, just go down the sides. Just wipe up what you can, the rest will burn off. You'll probably see some smoking in there for a bit, but no big deal.

head gasket, water pump, timing belt, if the belt broke possible head

Yes,fuel can gell up in severe cold..a shot of starting fluid can give you an easier start...but what concerns me is the smell of fuel. In severe cold some rubber seals can harden up and crack causing a leak...check seals around fuel filter on bottom along frame rail or also check injector seals...somewhere you have a leaking seal to smell fuel...check for fuel accumulation somewhere.

Sounds as though you may well have water condensation in your fuel lines that froze. Bummer. Or your fuel pump failed due to same type of freeze, or was on it's last legs before the final insult.