2002 Chrysler 300M - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. You connect a code scan tool and it tells you the issue. It will likely say a P0*** code that is 'VSS Failed no signal'. VSS = Vehicle Speed Sensor. https://www.google.com/search?q=2002+chrysler+300m+speedometer+not+working ..

Your fault is either the low voltage side of the coils or the output or spark plug side. Look for a broken wire.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlD-G7IS-uk

The Combination Flasher, also refered to as the combo-flasher, is mounted to the in-line bracket which is located to the right of the Junction Block. The Junction Block (JB) is located in the left endcap of the instrument panel. REMOVAL Open hood and disconnect the negative battery cable remote terminal from the remote battery post. Remove the left instrument panel silencer. Refer to Body Instrument Panel Silencer, REMOVAL. The flasher can be removed by pulling in a rearward direction. INSTALLATION Install the flasher by firmly pushing it into place. Install the left instrument panel silencer. Refer to Instrument Panel Silencer, INSTALLATION. Connect the negative battery cable remote terminal to the remote battery post.

it would blow around some censors leak were the metal meets the abs part

hi there. this is all i could find,go to this link and see if it helps you out. 2002 300m timing off is valves bent after trying to start car Google Search

Oh boy, this is a simple DIY job. You don;t need fancy tools as long as you are patient and clean. The Torque Converter Solenoid costs $70 at NAPA. The whole job for a novice takes about 2 hours. You'll have to remove the battery and battery plate to get enough room to disconnect the wire connector and remove three small bolts. Before you remove them, clean the entire area with Simple Green and an old toothbrush and wash it off with water. Remove the solenoid and then use a safety razor blade to scrape off any gasket material let on the polished face. Try to get as much off intact as you possibly can. Little bits will fall into the holes, so you'll need a long clear plastic tube to suck the oil up and empty each time from the gasket bits until they are as good as you can get them. Do all the holes! Place the new gasket on the new solenoid with the bolts holding it on and screw them in, reconnect the connector and then reinstall the battery. If you haven't done a ATF service, this is a good time to do it too. Costs $35 in parts and you'll need two oil drain pans to contain the ATF once you break the sump bolts. Scrape the gasket off, clean off the metal filings from the magnet inside and replace it, Simple Green works great inside to! Finally pop the old filter off and press the new one on... make sure the new one has an 'O' ring on it or reuse the old one. Refit the sump with new gasket and refill with 5 qts of Castrol ATF +4. Turn on the the engine and cycle through thr tranny and let the fluid warm up. Turn off the car and chekc the fluid level again and top it up to the warm or hot line on the dip stick. NEVER use anything but ATF+4 in this transmission or you're hosed. Lucas trannie medic Non-Slip is a ***** sentence to this transmission. ATF+4 pours like water... if anything is in there that is thicker, it been monkeyed with.

Do you know how to use a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter to trouble shoot automotive electrical circuits ? Using a wiring diagram to find testing points in the B+ power flow of the vehicle electrical circuits . Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model , engine size . Under system click electrical distribution , then under subsystem click power distribution . Click on the search button , then each link one at a time ! . stop lamp & park/horn circuits grounded on load side. What can cause this? A direct short to ground . Finding The Source Of Electrical Shorts In Your Car Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know

it sounds as if the alternator is going out, I would have the alternator checked. If it is below 13.80 volts then it will need replacement.

Who knows but you what you may have not connected or misconnected. No you need hands on to figure out this problem.

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Have you checked the dimmer control for the lights ?

hi it not to hard there a couple of 10 mm bolts to take the headlights out then change the the bulb &reinstall headlight assy

Intake air senor, did you plug it back in. On the plenum between the air filter and throttle body. They rarely go bad. If plugged in , check for a broken wire right behind the plug. they break inside the coating.

Remove or disconnect the following: NOTE Hold the hex on the attaching link stud while breaking the nut loose. The attaching link does not have to be removed from the strut. Rear wheel Caliper assembly and rotor from the hub, if equipped with rear disc brakes Brake flex hose from the support bracket and wheel cylinder, if equipped with rear drum brakes. Plug the brake flex hose to prevent system contamination. Do not allow the rear caliper to hang by the brake hose. Support the caliper off of the frame with a strong piece of wire. Speed sensor cable routing bracket and tube, if equipped with Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) Lateral links to the rear spindle assembly bolts Rear strut assembly-to-stabilizer bar attaching link at the stabilizer bar Remove the rear spindle-to-strut assembly pinch bolt. Install a center punch in the hole on the spindle and tap the punch into the hole until jammed. This will spread the spindle casting allowing it to be removed from the strut. Using a hammer, tap on the top surface of the spindle, driving the spindle down and off the end of the strut assembly. Let the spindle and assembled components hang from the trailing arm while the strut is being serviced. From inside the trunk of the vehicle, remove the 3 upper strut mounting bolts and remove the strut from the vehicle. Disassemble the strut by performing the following procedure: NOTE Service of the coil spring requires the use of a coil spring compressor tool. It is required that 5 coils be captured within the jaws of the compressor tool.

The shift solenoid is inside the transmission. The drain pan must be removed with the fluid. The filter and valve body unit also need to be removed. Unless you are really handy and have tools, I would get it repaired at a shop- usually around $250.

• The linkage could be jammed. You may need to access the linkage by removing the console.
• Sometimes shifting to drive and park a few times will release it.
• Get a OBD reader hooked up and read any tranny faults.

check for fuses to the ECM code p2008 refers to intakemanifold air control actuatoror solenoid bank 1---open circuit====causes wiring open circuit--intake manifold air control actuator/solenoid IF the coil was melted , it is possible that the wiring for the p2008 fault is in the same harness and has burnt through causing the open circuit. or melted out in the connection causing the open circuit.

get a workshop manual and there will be schematics in the book under brakes.

This is an indicator of a dead / undercharged battery. Voltage on a battery should be close to 13volts, But the cranking amps are most important during cold winter months. Have the battery tested. Most Auto shops will test your battery Free.