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2000 Chrysler LHS - Page 3 Questions & Answers
My blower and ac works but I can't see the
Mine too. I could tap DOWN on it with two fingers to get it to come on long enough to find out 1. takes 12 sec. to go from all the way "High" to "Lo", 2. when you hit "Auto" for A.C. "Recirculate" is on, but when turn fan down, (disengaging the "Auto" to Manual) the Recirculate goes off and has to be manually turned back on. That should be enough to get you controlling your climate blind.
I have a 2000 chrysler lhs and i need a diagram of the ignition coil pack as in a firing order
For just a few dollars you can get the "Haynes Automotive" manual for the L.H.S. that will have what you need, plus so much more. It is written for the average person and has all the wiring diagrams and even walks you through the engine rebuild. If you love your L.H.S. like I do mine, then it is worth the tiny, tiny investment. I would dig mine out for you but this is a better solution. You can get it online, or at ANY decent Auto Parts store. If you REALLY want me to dig mine out, hit me back and I will.
What are the parts of a 3,518 cc 3.5 liter V6 engine
This Question is too vague. What exactly are you wanting to know? there are 1000's of "parts" really, if you get detailed, and just general parts of any internal combustion engine are too many to list. There is the block that has pistons, drive shaft, main bearings, etc. The Head, (valves, push rods, rocker arms, etc,, "Long Block" parts like starter, alternator, power steering unit, etc. and I am just scratching the surface!! The Haynes Manual on the 2000 LHS which you can find at most decent Auto Parts stores has EVERYTHING about the car including a step by step on rebuilding the engine. Get that or resubmit your question with better detail of what you are wanting to get information about. Good Luck and God Bless.
Where is the battery located??
First, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. From here you can remove the six screws holding in the battery access panel.
Next, open the hood, unclip the air filter housing and remove the filter. It helps to get the cover up and out of the way by using a spare piece of wire and attaching it to the hood.
Now, you're ready to remove the air filter housing. On the right side of the housing (facing the car) you'll notice a fastener with no apparent means of removal. This is a friction grommet, akin to the snaps on a baby's shirt. Grip the housing right above this fastener and give it a firm pull upwards. The housing should pop out over the fastener. The left side is not fastened - there are two "bumpers" that hold it in place on that side.
Now you have complete access to the battery and can proceed with the replacement, sliding the battery out through the access door once it's been disconnected.
Finally, it's much easier to re-install the battery access door from the top, before re-installing the air filter housing. It's possible, but not easy from down below. hope this helps,
Steering wheel will not lock
In "old school" cars, the ignition key tumbler assembly had a pin that would initiate the steering wheel lock. I imagine that has not changed. If you have the ignition changed (requiring the expense of the new key as well) it will probably fix the problem. If that is the part that is broken, I doubt it can be fixed without replacement. How important is this for you, really? Good Luck!!
Wet drives floor board and an off key battery drain
You are likely facing two separate issues.
IF IT HAS NOT BEEN RAINING, the damp floorboard on the driver's side may be a leaking heater core (a part mounted under the dashboard inside the heating system that uses the engine's hot coolant to provide heat to the car).
IF IT HAS BEEN RAINING, the drain at the bottom of your driver's side door is clogged, and is leaking into the cabin. If the carpet adjacent to the door is wet, that's your problem. Just use a piece of wire to clean out the door drain (a hole in the bottom of the door, usually partially covered by a rubber flap).
REGARDING THE DYING BATTERY, it is one of several possible issues:
1) Your battery may be bad bad (a condition called "sulphation," which can be determined free-of-charge by having your battery load-tested at a local auto parts store); or
2) The regulator/rectifier in your alternator has gone bad. Have your battery tested first, then ask if they can test your alternator for you as well; or
3) A light or accessory is draining your battery. Use a video recorder to see if your trunk light turns off when you close the trunk. Also check to be sure your glove compartment light turns off when you close the glove compartment. Same with the hood light (if your car has one). Make sure that you unplug your GPS, phones, MP3 players, etc., and see if the battery continues to drain.
Let me know what you find out!
Weep hole on back of engine, what is it for?
there should be a metal plug inset in the hole, it is called a freeze plug. It's purpose is for if your water or coolant freezes the plug is designed to pop out of the block so that the motor block won't crack from the expansion when liquid freezes. It is a lot easier and cheaper to replace a freeze plug than to replace the whole motor block.
Vibration on right front tire at 70 mph to 75 mph
Well......- tire is out of balance or out of round- wheel rim has taken an impact and is slightly deformed- front shock absorber is faulty and is allowing the wheel to tramp- front suspension joint is worn or loosenedTake it to a suspension shop and have these things checked
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