Top 10 2000 Chrysler 300M Questions & Answers

Parts Required: Change all the lights at once, it is not worth the anguish of doing this over and over again
2 low-beam lights, 2 high-beam/running lights, 2 parking lights - part nos in the owners manual


A can of diet coke to clean the battery terminals is also recommended. *optional



Tools required

Ratchet set : 10mm, 7mm, 6mm sockets
Extension 12"
Large Flat screwdriver, small 4" flat screwdriver and a pair of pliers
Flash-light
12" Magnetic tip telescoping bit

Surgical gloves

Battery terminal cleaner * optional



Step 1:

First take off the plastic cover that cover that is across the front of the engine compartment. 6 push pins hold it in place, Use the long flat screw driver to pry them up and use the pliers to pull them off.


Gently take the plastic cover off and set it aside.


Step 2:

Next you will see 3 push pins that hold the front grill to the engine housing, using the long flat and a pair of pliers pull the 3 push pins out.


Step 3:
In the upper area of each wheel well, you will see a large 2.5" rubber grommet. Pull the rubber grommet out



Step 4:
Locate a 6mm bolt head that is driven vertically upwards. It is not visible looking at the wheel well. You have to lay down on the floor and you will find it about a foot below the grommet and at the edge of the fender. Use the the ratchet to remove this bolt headed screw. It is about a 1.5" long. Do this for both sides before going to the next step


Step 5:

Start with the passenger side as it is easier. Use the flash light and peer into the fender area from the engine compartment. You will see a nut on a bolt, and a plastic fastener.
Use the 10mm socket on the 12" extension. Insert it into the hole where the grommet was, and guide the socket on the nut head. It is about an 1" long. Be careful as you take it off, else you will be fishing for the bolt in the fender.

Step 6:
Pull on the plastic fender in the front till the bolt head and the fastener exit the fender. This has to be repeated for each side.

Step 7:
Locate 8mm bolt heads on top of the light assembly. Note it is not the Philips head - they are to level the lamps. Before undoing the bolts, check the spirit level on top of the lamp assembly and make a note of the bubbles position. You will need this when you put the assembly back. Undo both bolts, they have about an 1" of thread on the top and then you have to pull it up physically or with the use of the pliers

Step 8:
Pull the headlight assembly out - gently. Don't scratch the paint work and don't damage the rubber molding around the light assembly.

Step 8a*: If you see any salt build up on the battery terminals, pour diet coke or pepsi on the terminals, this neutralizes all the salt. Then pour some water to clean the gunk and then with a paper towel dry it. Be careful with the paper towel, as it contains sulfuric acid and is corrosive, put in in a garbage bag immediately. If you feel it has come into contact with your skin, was vigorously before continuing.

Step 9:
Note the position of the connector before you do anything. Turn the retaining rings holding each bulb counter clock wise. When you do this the bulb assembly and the connector will pull free. Two instances of this. Remove assembly, and place securely on a table

Step 10:
Locate the parking light below and turn the connector clockwise as you are looking over it. Pull out the old bulb and replace it. Do this for both sides. Turn on the parking lights to ensure they work, try the signals too. No sense it putting it all back together and nothing works. Replace the holder and bulb in reverse order. Note the unit should fit in nicely and rotate smoothly as you turn counter clockwise this time.

Step 11:
Using the 4" flat screwdriver, lift the locking pins gently and push the bulb out, Start with the low beams. Low beam has only 1 filament, high-beam/running light has 2 filaments. Put on the pair of surgical gloves, and open the pack of new bulbs, push the bulbs into the empty sockets, until the locking pins click into place. Change the low-and high beams.

Step 12:
Insert the bulb with the connector in the position you noted in step 9. Slide the mounting ring and then lock it into place by turning it clock-wise as you are looking at it from the rear of the assembly. Repeat this for both the high beam and low beam. Slide assembly back into cavity. Repeat this for the other side. Test the bulbs light correctly

Step 13:
Gently push back the front plastic so that the bolt and the plastic stud enter the fender. Pay attention to ensure that the fender lining sits correctly. Using the 12" ratchet extension and the 10mm socket mount the bolt back on and tighten. Do this for both sides

Step 14:
Using the ratchet mount the 6mm fastener on to the fender. Do this for both sides

Step 15:
Mount the jack screws on top of the headlight assembly. Tighten till the bubble in the spirit level returns to the original position. Don't push the bolt past its maximum. If it doesn't return to the original level, loosen and adjust the headlamp assembly and re-tighten. Do this for both headlamps.

Step 16:
Replace the 3 push pins that hold the front grill to the engine compartment. Replace the large plastic panel that was removed in step 1 and remount it using the 6 push pins.


Voila - you have changed all the bulbs on the front of the 1999 300M.

Estimated time:
Novice 2 hours
Advanced 1 hour
Expert 45 mins

If you found this helpful, a quick note to the author George and Anna at [email protected] would be appreciated.

I am having the same prob. on 04 300m 83,000 mi. I am a chrysler tech and another tech at my shop had the same problem a week ago. Mine started when i Was on the thruway my guage crept up to 3/4 so i kicked the heat on and it went normal. After stopping I found the water pump went and was leaking bad. I replaced the waterpump timing belt and tensioner pulley. thought it was good untill on a long trip. Noticed temp goin up no leaks this time, coolant full. doesnt overheat with heater on. Actuated fans with DRB3 and both work and are working when car says its overheating. Replaced thermostat and bleed system. thought it was ok untill drove 35mi. suspecting bad wiring plugged radiator or coolant temp sensor. Still driving with heat on low to keep from overheating. any others fix this problem yet?

What must I do, I have a 2005 Chrysler 300, the gear shift is stuck in park. do you have a solution to this problem?

There will be a few minor differences between the 2000 and 2004, but for the most part, you can use the 2004 manual as a reference. Since it is illustrated, you can confirm visually when you are taking on repairs. I have owned a 2000 300m for several years. Might I recommend you visit 300mclub.org? I am a member there and have learned a ton about 300m's.

The ABS sensor is a speed sensor also for Traction Control. This is why both lights are on , One of your front ABS sensors are bad or disconnected, or has a pinched wire.

try going back to were the cable is inside your car get needle nose pliers or a set of locking pliers and pull on the cable if not you will have to get under the car and release the hood from the locking mechanism

you will need to unbolt bumper cover and pull out on side light is being replaced, doesnt have to come of completely but needs to pull back to get light out,remove the bolts from the top hold light asm, in, then remove top cross plate that holds hood latch and put to the side, then remove bolts and clips holding bumper cover and pull cover foward until you have room to pull light out, then remove the bulb from the rear,this bulbs are 90 degree plug type not the straight one, they dont fit, hope this helps, not bad to do, just sounds so.

I would replace the light switch, but first I would have a confederate
go around and jiggle all the door jamb switches while I observed the dash lights. Something is loose, often the brightness control for the dash lights is the culprit.

This sounds like your evaporative emissions system acting up. Has the check engine light come on? There should be a charcoal cannister that filters the vented air/fumes from the fuel tank. If a vacuum or vapor line is broken, or removed.. or if the charcoal canister is depleted, you'll get the gas smell.

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