Top 10 2005 Cadillac CTS Questions & Answers

Hi. the fuel pressure sensor is part of the fuel pump assembly. You will have to remove the fuel pump to replace this. I would go ahead and replace the fuel pump while you are there.You will have to Pull the strainer off the fuel pump and discard it. remove the retaining clip for the fuel pressure regulator so that you can remove the fuel pressure regulator. Disconnect the electrical connections for the fuel pumps and the fuel level sensor. Remove the retaining clip for the fuel level sensor and remove the fuel level sensor by squeezing the locking tangs. the sensor is incorporated in this area.

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the computer knows that input data from a system has a problem,so disconnecting the battery will not help.
that is the procedure for working on it so that the airbags do not deploy.
a code scanner will tell you which part of the system,including a seatbelt latch,tensioner, or seat position sensor is defective.

1. Press the TUNE/SEL knob to enter the main menu
2. Turn the TUNE/SEL knob until set clock appears on the display
3. Press the TUNE/SEL knob to select set clock
4. Turn the TUNE/SEL knob to adjust the time
5. Press the TUNE/SEL knob to update the time.Time updated will appear on the display

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Yep this answer is correct!! Remove the panel on the inside of the trunk, remove 8 10mm nuts, carefully pull of entire light assembly, and you will see the tag light bulb carrier. Turn it to the unlock position, and replace the peanut style bulbs, they just pull out of the socket.

Most models can be done by onstar, or with your key fob or key in the drivers door. Check your owners manual if you have one.

Hi there:

Check Rear Underseat Fuse Block (Passenger's Side) that is located under the rear seat on the passenger's side of the vehicle.


The rear seat cushion must be removed to access the rear fuse block. See "Removing the Rear Seat Cushion" listed previously from the Owners Manual.


To access the fuse block, push in the two tabs located at each end of the fuse block cover. Then lift the cover off.





This is the specific location on J CASES for Sunroof Module...




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Hi there:
First check this information about "engine noses"...
ENGINE CLICKING NOISES
A clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.

First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.

COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISE
Worn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.

VALVE LASH NOISE
If you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.

To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).

On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.

DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISE
Inspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.

RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUND
Usually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.

Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.

Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.

ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATING
The cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.

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I would check the owners manual or with Cadillac - its possible the remotes lost part of the signal and need to be reset. It sounds like the receiver is not getting a signal from them by using that button.
Could be the receiver too.

I have a 2005 Cadillac CTS and the climate control is reading c instead of f. How do i switch it back

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then go inside your car and press the break pedal for 30 seconds. That should drain the extra power and reset your computer.