A number of things could cause horns not to work , a faulty clock spring inside the top of the steering coulmn , other things not working like button controls on the steering wheel a lit air bag light on the instrument cluster would also point to the clock spring as the problem . The relay could be bad ,as could a wiring issue or the horns them self mite be bad . Guessing as to the problem is not a good way to go about a repair . Viewing a factory wiring diagram for the horn electrical circuit an then testing with a test light or a DVOM - digital volt ohmmeter is the correct way .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mru8BbTGDwM&t=1s
TBW blues, THROTTLE BY WIRE
NEW PARTS FROM gm OR AFTER MARKET STUFF.
THAT IS P2 OEM FACTORY ONLY CODE.
well did you use the scan tool after all those new parts
TB and pedal
and reset all DTC then drive plenty ? to see it fail again
if yes,bad wiring. or using wrong parts.
no engine told at all
no VIN told, no RPO codes for engine. told.
lacking that it be super easy to get wrong parts, on 3 _+ engines
2,8L , 3.6, and 5.7L V8
none told. and is a pure engine EFI question
to work on any car not knowing what is there, we read the RPO tag
shows engine codes. and we buy parts only ON THAT>
all 3 TB ARE DIFFERENT.
Most of these parts have connector that lock, some are double locked, and if forced are broken.
try re-seating all TB and pedal connectors, with due care.
fully re-seated.
and wire damage.
THE SM STATES AND I QUOTE
Trouble Code: P2138 (3.6L V6 VIN 7 Auto)
Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor 1-2 Correlation
Print this code data
Trouble Code Conditions:
The battery voltage is more than 7.0 volts. The ignition is ON or the engine is operating. DTC P2138 run continuously once the above conditions are met for more than 1 second. This DTC set when one of the following conditions occur: The ECM detects that the voltage difference between APP sensor 1 and 2 is more than 0.21 volt. The ECM detects that the voltage difference between APP sensor 1 and 2 is more than 0.27 volt with a partially pressed pedal. The ECM detects that the voltage difference between APP sensor 1 and 2 is more than 1.07 volts with a fully pressed pedal. The ECM detects that the APP sensor 1 voltage is more then 1.17 when leaving the idle range and the voltage difference between APP sensor 1 and 2 is more than 0.04. Any of the above conditions exist for less than 4 seconds.
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ALSO ARE YOU USING MODERN SCAN TOOL 2008 OR NEWER
SO YOU CAN SEE RELATED TRANSMISSION ERRORS./
p07XX Errors?
The dimming fuse supplies battery positive voltage to the license lamps, underhood lamp and to the dash integration module (DIM) park lamp input, for interior lamps dimming.
Dimming fuse 10 amp. under hood fuse box. the park lamp relay supply's battery power to that fuse .
This is kind of an usual code to get it says E.C.S vent valve solenoid malfunction but it says a VENT the only real vent is the gas cap I would check that first not that isn't venting out its not venting in to the system .
I can't say for sure I haven't seen it but it could be the problem .
when key is turned there is a single click and then nothing happens.
Where do you hear this click coming from ? Before you replace parts you should test the electrical circuits , if you don't know how i suggest you take it to a qualified repair shop .
Viewing wiring diagrams to see what all is involved in the starting of the vehicle , reading how it's suppose to work in factory service repair manual .
Moving the ignition switch to the START position sends a 12-volt signal to the engine control module (ECM) to command starting. Battery voltage also travels through the switch side of the Run/Crank relay then through the clutch switch, if equipped with manual transmission, and on through the coil side of the Starter relay and then to the ECM. The ECM receives class 2 information from the vehicle theft deterrent (VTD) and transmission control module (TCM) to verify that all parameters are met for starting. When all parameters are met the ECM grounds the control circuit of the Starter relay closing the switch providing battery voltage to the starter solenoid through a 30 A Maxi-Fuse.
Are the battery cables good ? Voltage drop testing
Starter Voltage Drop
Test the control side of the circuit at the relay . Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine size . Under system click on engine .Then under subsystem click on starting . Click the search button then the blue link . Pretty complex looking isn't it . Using a factory scan tool at the dealer makes diagnosing a lot simpler . Can view data to the PCM , start signal from the ignition switch , Starter relay control , see input from transmission park neutral safety switch .
Your mechanic caused this. Take it back and have them fix it.
Major work like this done at a dealer will also get you a 12 month - 12,000 mile warranty.
the clutch is the cheapest option and clutch fluid or cable is the first point to check indicates that the clutch is not properly disengaging with the foot on the pedal and that is loading up the gears making shifting difficult or impossible
If it's the original battery, it's 12 years old and way beyond it's useful life. If replaced once, the second battery is probably near the end of its life, five to six years
If you're near a Wal-Mart super store, get a new battery installed if the other is old, five to six years They have good prices and top rated batteries by CR. While you're there and if it's -25 (C or F since the scales are concurrent about that point) go to snack shop and warm up with a nice hot cocoa or hot cup of coffee. Sometimes its free in the customer lounge.
Good Luck
this sounds like a loose connection to these controls, have you had any work done on your vehicle recently? If you have this may have caused a connection to become loose , whilst the work was carried out, if not then i would check the connections to the various components and make sure they are pushed together properly, this will involve removing the lower dash panel , you have'nt mention vehicle so this is a general way to proceed, trace the wire looms back from the component and check each connection as you find them , hope this helps
Won't start how ? When you turn the key to the start position does the starter spin the engine ? Or not ? This would be a no crank - no start condition ! Or when you turn the key to start the starter spins over the engine but it doesn't start an run ? This is a crank - no start condition . Both have very different diagnostic testing procedures ! An what won't say anything ? Is there a car an padlock symbol lit on the instrument cluster ?
What pulley ? Where is located ? center front of the engine ? Probably the water pump is bad . No seal to replace . What size engine ? 2.8 , 3.6 or 5.7 L
It's not the crank pulley , it's coming from above an leaking down around the crank pulley . It's actually the water pump which is right above the crank pulley .
You'll need a tool to release the tension on the serpentine belt and when you need to put the belt back on. Regular standard socket wrenches will suffice for the rest.
