its an led assembly dealer only will sell you the whole light, unless your a wizz at soldering and testing for the right resistors this is the only fix
TBW blues, THROTTLE BY WIRE
NEW PARTS FROM gm OR AFTER MARKET STUFF.
THAT IS P2 OEM FACTORY ONLY CODE.
well did you use the scan tool after all those new parts
TB and pedal
and reset all DTC then drive plenty ? to see it fail again
if yes,bad wiring. or using wrong parts.
no engine told at all
no VIN told, no RPO codes for engine. told.
lacking that it be super easy to get wrong parts, on 3 _+ engines
2,8L , 3.6, and 5.7L V8
none told. and is a pure engine EFI question
to work on any car not knowing what is there, we read the RPO tag
shows engine codes. and we buy parts only ON THAT>
all 3 TB ARE DIFFERENT.
Most of these parts have connector that lock, some are double locked, and if forced are broken.
try re-seating all TB and pedal connectors, with due care.
fully re-seated.
and wire damage.
THE SM STATES AND I QUOTE
Trouble Code: P2138 (3.6L V6 VIN 7 Auto)
Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor 1-2 Correlation
Print this code data
Trouble Code Conditions:
The battery voltage is more than 7.0 volts. The ignition is ON or the engine is operating. DTC P2138 run continuously once the above conditions are met for more than 1 second. This DTC set when one of the following conditions occur: The ECM detects that the voltage difference between APP sensor 1 and 2 is more than 0.21 volt. The ECM detects that the voltage difference between APP sensor 1 and 2 is more than 0.27 volt with a partially pressed pedal. The ECM detects that the voltage difference between APP sensor 1 and 2 is more than 1.07 volts with a fully pressed pedal. The ECM detects that the APP sensor 1 voltage is more then 1.17 when leaving the idle range and the voltage difference between APP sensor 1 and 2 is more than 0.04. Any of the above conditions exist for less than 4 seconds.
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ALSO ARE YOU USING MODERN SCAN TOOL 2008 OR NEWER
SO YOU CAN SEE RELATED TRANSMISSION ERRORS./
p07XX Errors?
I assume the solution is the same in a CTS as a CTS-V. Remove the plastic molding facing the rear. There are four plastic screws, Unscrew and lift the spare tire cover. Unscrew plastic screws on carpet covering quarter panels pull back for room to work. Each light assembly has two nuts, remove these and assembly will slide out for easy replacement. Since both lights stopped at once, the fuse may be the issue. The fuse box is under the rear seat cushion, behind the driver. Pull the seat up and forward. Pull levers out on each side of fuse box cover and lift. The diagram is inside the fuse box cover. It'll take a 15V. Note: Please take care in replacing and seat and proper seat belt placement. While you're in the backseat, check all the fuses, there's a second fusebox on the passenger side. Also, check floor behind driver's seat for wetness and water. That could cause a short as well. Good luck!
A number of things could cause horns not to work , a faulty clock spring inside the top of the steering coulmn , other things not working like button controls on the steering wheel a lit air bag light on the instrument cluster would also point to the clock spring as the problem . The relay could be bad ,as could a wiring issue or the horns them self mite be bad . Guessing as to the problem is not a good way to go about a repair . Viewing a factory wiring diagram for the horn electrical circuit an then testing with a test light or a DVOM - digital volt ohmmeter is the correct way .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mru8BbTGDwM&t=1s
The dimming fuse supplies battery positive voltage to the license lamps, underhood lamp and to the dash integration module (DIM) park lamp input, for interior lamps dimming.
Dimming fuse 10 amp. under hood fuse box. the park lamp relay supply's battery power to that fuse .
This is kind of an usual code to get it says E.C.S vent valve solenoid malfunction but it says a VENT the only real vent is the gas cap I would check that first not that isn't venting out its not venting in to the system .
I can't say for sure I haven't seen it but it could be the problem .
when key is turned there is a single click and then nothing happens.
Where do you hear this click coming from ? Before you replace parts you should test the electrical circuits , if you don't know how i suggest you take it to a qualified repair shop .
Viewing wiring diagrams to see what all is involved in the starting of the vehicle , reading how it's suppose to work in factory service repair manual .
Moving the ignition switch to the START position sends a 12-volt signal to the engine control module (ECM) to command starting. Battery voltage also travels through the switch side of the Run/Crank relay then through the clutch switch, if equipped with manual transmission, and on through the coil side of the Starter relay and then to the ECM. The ECM receives class 2 information from the vehicle theft deterrent (VTD) and transmission control module (TCM) to verify that all parameters are met for starting. When all parameters are met the ECM grounds the control circuit of the Starter relay closing the switch providing battery voltage to the starter solenoid through a 30 A Maxi-Fuse.
Are the battery cables good ? Voltage drop testing
Starter Voltage Drop
Test the control side of the circuit at the relay . Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine size . Under system click on engine .Then under subsystem click on starting . Click the search button then the blue link . Pretty complex looking isn't it . Using a factory scan tool at the dealer makes diagnosing a lot simpler . Can view data to the PCM , start signal from the ignition switch , Starter relay control , see input from transmission park neutral safety switch .
Your mechanic caused this. Take it back and have them fix it.
Major work like this done at a dealer will also get you a 12 month - 12,000 mile warranty.
the clutch is the cheapest option and clutch fluid or cable is the first point to check indicates that the clutch is not properly disengaging with the foot on the pedal and that is loading up the gears making shifting difficult or impossible
