2001 Suzuki Grand Vitara - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I would have taken it back immediatly and told them that it worked before and oesnt now since they worked on it and you would appreciate it if they at least looked at it.

If they refuse, then never go back and you will have to trace the problem using a voltemeter.

Make sure the fuse is the right Amperage.

Buy a repair manual from a auto parts saled store and see what else connects to that fuse, you could have a bad blower motor, or some other wire that got damaged durring the clutch install.

good luck

Correct. When you turn off the engine you lose the engine vacuum to the brake boost assist. No brakes. Can't accelerate with engine off.

A car engine is bound to make noises. After all, there are so many moving components and parts inside of an engine as it is running. Most of these noises are not very loud and they are nothing to worry about. But there are times when engine noises will sound a bit unusual or strange.

A good example of this is when there is a ticking noise coming from the engine. A ticking sound could be caused by any number of reasons, such as a low level of oil or loose components.

You may hear a ticking, clicking, or tapping noise while the vehicle is idling, accelerating, or even after receiving an oil change. To understand what the actual problem is, you must understand the signs to look out for.

Gas is going into the injectors if gas is getting to them. Now you have to diagnose the injector circuit, cause they are not firing and letting gas spray out. Injectors are electrical solenoids (switches) that have a power wire to them and a ground wire from the injector to the computer where the computer grounds the injector circuit internally and causes the injector to "fire" and spray fuel out. First make sure the injector fuse is good. There is one fuse for all the injectors, and it should be in the fuse/relay block under the hood. Auto parts stores sell a tester called a "noid light" which tests injector circuits. It is a very cheap tester and easy to use. Just disconnect one injector connector and install the noid light. Then someone must be cranking the engine over. If the circuit is good, the noid light will be blinking while engine is cranking. If not blinking, either the power wire from the fuse to the injector is not good, or the ground wire from the injector to the computer is not good. Or the circuitry inside the computer for the injectors is bad- this is seldom the case, but it can happen.

Bad earth on the rear, find the earths remove and clean the area they are fixed to and the cables, if necessary add another good earth!!

Here's a link to Amazon that may help you purchase parts internationally. https://www.amazon.com/2001-Suzuki-Grand-Vitara-Parts-and-Accessories/e/B004CGGTL2

Inside the transfer case there is a chain if its broke then its going to need to be rebuilt, transmission shops job.

Hey Anon, Are you SURE you got the correct belt?? Something does not sound right about this...???... Double check all the pulleys when the belts are off...the alternator should spin freely, all the the idler pulleys should spin free..(ones that just spin and guide but are NOT connected to anything)!! This very thing happened to me...it was a $12 idler pulley that did nothing but spun and guided the belt..

to check the problem see the wiring diagram then you can fix the problem but if you don't have the diagram then go to the given link from where you can have it http://toolsnyou.com/

Has this been taken care of?

Has this been fixed?

Why do you think the ignition switch is the problem?? I would not think that would cause this, have never once seen a ignition starter switch cause this symptom in 35 years.

you need to be more clear,top right of body, top right of engine, transmission, axle? what?>noises are 99% not good, and not safe, do not delay find a competenthands on ASE mechanic to look at car, even pay for Diagnosis only !if the engine makes noise you do need to flat out say that.if the engine makes noise, we can diagnose where and what it is.there are tricks, to do that, but do not drive any engine that makes noise or invite total engine destruction. can be.i can be . bad mounted accessories loose or just bad.loose exh header clamp banging about (or gasket there)or cam chain getting ready to lunch the engine. i have 2004 v6. can advise better. but you need to be clear.you can drop belts off to see if noise stops, for 2min dead cold block.you can pry exh parts to see of noise abates.you can use a $5 HF stethoscope to listen to all parts, and hear if they are bad. so easy. good luck to you.

old post its in your pocket or your dog eat it. , i got tired of look at this here.. only.

Remote can be matched manually

in what country, car is sold all over the earth, ! The dash tells me NOTHING. (but guess, background Illumination) there are many things that glow in dashes. like

1. warning lamps.
2. map lights
3. radio lamps.
4. speedo and tacho, back lighting (part of the PARKing lamps)
5. the dash dimmer knob if turned down kills #4 in cluster.
6. foot well lamps. glove box lamps. shifter lamps. etc. endless.

If you don't have the operators guide or FSM book, then you cant know what fuse it is, can you, nor where it is. you can login to mitchells DIY and read it. ill pretend you said, USA> just sold my 04 GV, Hated it. and is YUGO status here now. my guess is , driving in the dark the cluster is dark. so, turn the knob to up, if still dark do this. ours is H25 , 2.5L V6, and has its own wring system. guess, 3 20 questions, are the cars exterior park lamps dead.? if yes , open hood, open fuse box. see HL fuses. if blow , bingo. my guess, 4 is HL dead. left. fuse 6 tell more get more, are park lamps dead, be top top clue1

I can't reset these. Dealer. But I would have the system scanned first. Make sure there isn't a problem. If the security light isn't constantly on, you may have a bad starter. Check fuses first.

Take the starter back out but leave it connected. If it doesn't use a ground wire, make up a heavy wire and use that for ground. When you hit the key, watch to see if the starter gear moves forward to engage an doesn't just spin. (it engages the flywheel when in place.) The engine isn't supposed to fire if it's not turning.

The first thing that comes to mind for the radio is loose wiring. You didn't mention whether it was aftermarket or stock? You might want to check whether any trouble codes have been stored for the engine stalling issue.

the car has 26 relays!@ and 1 to or 3 fans are you saying the heater/ A.C blower is dead./ the HVAC? or engine fan (its mech for rad) or condenser fan, no symptoms posted, just relay hunts. my guess is you dont know how the blower in the heater works. so will cover that. The HVAC. First test is blower in high, failing is bad fuse.? if lower speeds fail, (a top clue) then the blower resistor is bad. but only on the manual hvac option! lets backup,I have full parts list on your car, here, USA. spec the car came new with 2 class type of HVAC manual AC with blower resistor or full auto system that as a new brain box, and a transistor box that controls blower, at all times, its just a transistor. (no brains) some cars with the full auto HVAC feature have a self test mode. and self calibration feature (learn) all this is in the BIG BOOK. apples and oranges, different to the extreme. so instead of me guessing car you bought. ill tell you to RTM just 4 bucks, and only covers that exact year, and car only. not a clone book as the folks post here , RAG books. the real deal here from suzuki actual.... the BIG BOOK. see chapter HVAC and read. https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/1174-2001-grand-vitara-xl-7-service-manual.aspx