20 Most Recent 2001 Suzuki Grand Vitara - Page 3 Questions & Answers

so what are the symptoms.?????????????????what transmission, A/T or M/T?you get on the dirt. and shift to 4Hi or 4low (its not for DRY pavement) so... AWD started in 2004, so is not AWD. but PT.called Part time four wheel drive. are you getting ready for snow , that it? do say so, as telling the job puts us on the same page...and 4wd does not engage?this system is just Part time 4wd,. and is for ice roads or dirt only.the first test is the transfer case not front axle.test 1:when you select 4HI the gear dogs in the transfer case lock.and not power goes to the front prop shaft,with all 4 wheels on jack stands this can be felt key off.or running in 4wd. key off , and A/T in PARK or 5speed stick in say REVERSEyou can not turn the front prop shaft by hand, in 4H wheels off ground, that means the transfer case is in fact in 4hi.Ok we now have POWER To the front axle. (following me;/??)so the front axle locks.if the front , fails to lock, up, at spec pressure then the part 18 is bad (spec is 4.25 PSI)exactly.http://www.fixkick.com/axles/04lock.JPGif on the other hand the pressure is low, then this is badpart 25 pump i s bad.http://www.fixkick.com/hubs/F-axle-99up.JPGeasy huh>?or is the only symptoms just the dash light.as driving on pavement dry, (no ice) its normal for the dash light to fail. after all you dont belong in 4wd now. lacking ice or dirt.but if you jack car up in air, sure the light must come one.the light dont come on until the transfer case fully engages.and cant if on dry ground and it binds up, as ALL DO.get on dirt.shift to 4wd, going dead slow, 1/2"mph slowest possible speed.this saves DOG DAMAGE. in the box.http://www.fixkick.com/part-time-test.html#Suzuki_PTno,sorry, the PCM has Zero to do with the manual transfer case.please say , what fails (besides the useless dash light)what are you doing?where is car, what surface are the tires touching?>???do not drive this car on dry pavement (means no ice)in PT 4wd.its not for that. sell car buy 2004 with AWD.if you know all that, as the operators guide says.then do the prop shaft test .wheels off ground.and say what transmission you got here, i have 4 cars like this all are 5 speed box.see the dogs here.see red arrow. see words weak.?http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/xfr-case/XFRCASEGUTS.jpgwhen you shift to 4H, this dog engages and the chain moves.and the front prop shaft moves with full power.that is test one, engage this dog and test.the dogs are the small teeth on gear #29

On Google: images for suzuki grand vitara parts dipstick location

the radiator hose that gets hot first is the hose to find..the 2 big hoses, one is output other is suck to pump.if you follow that hose to the unstated engine, you findmr. thermostat housing and inside....... bingo.in any case, one hose to pump, and one to thermostat.it takes all of 10seconds to see that hood up.there are 2 engines used on this car.which one did you get?pick one?

why not just do it one at a time., why make it hard.? the front cover off is big job. my guess is you have oil leaks, that it? the steps are in the FSM book, you can read them at alldata.com or at the official suz page. posted 100 times. $4 to look....... https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/1191-2001-vitara-grand-vitara-service-manual.aspx or see all parts here for free. it should be obvious what needs doing, if you look at what is in the way. http://www.fixkick.com/engine/2.5L%202004%20Tracker/25L-2004-engine.pdf non are easy on the v6 you can see the intake is in the way. and lots more on front cover.... id do the VC first. see if the leaks stops. or better. why not use the UV dye, check and find true place of leak first. then do all that labor to fix. it. the front cover. well you can see all thing must come off front of engine, to get the cover clear of the crank shaft. its clear that ! and how to do that depends on what stops you doing that. the RAD sure. id have it out already. (not A/C condensor) posted many times before. but one more time... in FSM book.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove throttle body and intake manifold.
3. Remove ignition coil covers.
4. Remove camshaft covers.
5. Clean sealing surfaces on cylinder heads and covers.
6. Remove oil, old sealant, and dust from sealing surfaces. After cleaning, apply sealant A to cylinder heads sealing surface area as shown in figure.

so you read the book and get to line 2 and see links to those pages. and ask who do to that, (TB should be obvious) and that page on intake states

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
3. Drain the cooling system.
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Negative battery cable
   • Strut tower bar
   • Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor connector
   • Surge tank cover
   • Air intake assembly
   • Accelerator cable
   • Transmission cable, if equipped
   • Throttle body coolant hoses
   • Fuel injector connectors
   • Throttle Position (TP) sensor connector
   • Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor connector
   • Idle Air Control (IAC) valve connector
   • Intake manifold ground cables
   • Brake booster vacuum hose
   • Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) canister purge valve connector and hoses
   • Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve connector
   • Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve and hose
   • Heater hoses
   • EGR pipe
   • Fuel lines
   • Throttle body and intake collector
   • Intake manifold
5. .... stop,....... im sure it's info overload time.. RTM?

im sure you dont like this answer , and will drive with leaks. like me.... why not read the manual first then ask questions. not clear. posted vast times... on suz v6

in the USA , the SQ625 car is here.no country stated so..... i guess.just in front of fuel tank, up top, is the filter.if you look there, its right there.up to 2005 this is true, later its moved to tank.there is no firewall filter. (bunk)here is the correct USA drawings... behold.see red arrow. bingo....

sounds like it dosent recognize the key you can try and disconect the batt for 10 mins then try that ,if not someone with good diagnostic equipment to reprogram keys

does the pump spin? is the tank full of juice? yes, yes, then the line is clogged. or the rear spray nozzle clogged

great question and the vin does show which engine, code 6 is 2.5 2.5L called the H25 later it was H27 and bigger latter.

so, you removed all 6 cop coils and 6 spark plugs. then blocked the throttle open, and pulled the fuel pump relay then checked compression and all 6 are zero not 150psi + really? the throttle must be blocked open or the engine will not get air supply to make compression. i bet you did no read the gauge instructions nor FSM steps, same, so false reading. here. or didnt use a long hose screw in gauge, and tried to use rubber tipped chevy engine gauge , useless here) did you remove that CMP sensor on the rear of the left head? if you messed it up , it will never run. right. IT IS TIMED ! mess with this? questions, does it run for 3 seconds on test fuel? sprayed? is the Check engine light glowing key on? if not you blew fuses.!!! pull battery neg lug before starting work? connect scan tool and crank 5 seconds, get P03xx errors. DTC, bingo check static timing>? yes, it has that. and a freeze jumper to check timing if the CMP was violated, in any way. if you need help, ask, I have the full FSM on this car. 2 volumes. if test fuel fails. you lost spark or fiddled the CMP or its UNPLUGGED. I bet compression is perfect. I DO ! (9 out of 10 do it wrong is why, DIY shade tree )

7 posts and all great answers ignored. (a new record that 7 posts) post the compression on all 5 cyliners post the hard numbers, ! and do it with the :

1. throttle blocked open
2. battery charged
3. all spark plugs removed for max RPM and full pressure.

150PSI or more, mine does 180 easy/ H25 is mine too. you messed up the CMP sensor then did compression wrong. so.... do it right. this time. i bet: spark is dead. or timing way off due to CMP fiddling. or its connector is not on right. or blew fuse, due to skipping step 1 in the FSM book, for VC gasket change outs. (factory service manual , read it yet? ) step 1: pull battery neg lug, first.

One actuator solenoid and module assembly, located on the lower portion of the steering column, locks the shifter in Park whenever it receives a signal that the ignition switch is in the ON position. When the module receives a signal from the Brake On-Off (BOO) switch that indicates the brake pedal is depressed, it unlocks the shifter so that it can be shifted out of Park." It says the most common failures in the system are the fuse and the BOO switch, and if they are fine, special tools are needed to diagnose. To disable the system: Apply the parking brake, turn the ignition key to LOCK, then remove the key. Insert the key and turn it to OFF. Press the brake pedal. Shift to neutral, start the vehicle and select the desired gear. Check this and additionally, I suggest check if your vehicle has some NSS (Neutral Safety Switch) that would be adjust.Hope this helps; just keep in mind that your feedback is important and I'll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Have a nice day and thanks for using FixYa.Jose.

double posted, and answered. back one.

the steps you want all steps why not just read the book your self for 4bucks. posted 100s of times. https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/1191-2001-vitara-grand-vitara-service-manual.aspx its all there in the book and 4bucks aint squat.

2001 really., that year? wrong year, you did that. in the usa, (this is a usa forum) posted 100s of times. open hood, look up under hood, see that EPA sticker, showing just that? the 3.2L was introduced in 2008/9 depends on what plugs, some are not gap settable. usa spec, 2010. read this FSM page. hen servicing an iridium spark plug, do not touch the center electrode. The center electrode on this type of spark plug is slender and can be damaged if a mechanical force is applied. Do not clean or adjust the gap for the iridium spark plugs. IF NOT THAT THEN, old technology spark plugs, not above. The 3.2L engine spark plug air gap specification is: 0.043-0.047 inch (1.1-1.2mm).

In the USA $300-350 labour. Parts about $50

u need turn signal lever switch.

G16B engine,s, all in USA> (not so in other countries) under engine, front of engine, below crank pulley see that sensor. exactly here, from 1996 to now. http://www.fixkick.com/my96-16v/ckp-sensor.jpg

These are normally located on the lower (intake) tank of the radiator and will have either one or two leads and should plug in with no problem. You will, however, have to put some kind of basin under the radiator to catch the coolant which will run out on removal of the sensor.