20 Most Recent 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Page 8 Questions & Answers

it needs to be removed. if that is not your skills sets (its really easy) but get it done at any auto shop. say, my car is hacked can you un hack it back to stock SURE CAN. in fact the factory FSM) service manual shows what was there day one. easy peasy 1 wire at a time.

About your seat, On the Jep seat under the seat you first have to remove the seat for easy access, on the botton of the seat you will se the motor which connects to a plastic box with 4 or 6 outlets this is called the seat control transmission. Each one of the connections have a cable like a speedo cable that connects to the transmission with a screw type cable connection unscrew them one at a time most likely one or more of the inner cables are broken. you can replace each one of the cables can be replacedor you can buy the entire transmission box

totally untrue but using the wrong name ask counter man for PRNDL switch, on side of transmission A./T and tell him which of 2 transmissions used, there, 42RE? the only line pages at jeep cover this.(parts online) why not look? the shifter uses a cable , this cable goes under car this other end goes to the manual lever on side of the trans this lever has a PRNDL switch on every a/t made (most cars) but? when in R, mode, the switch closes and the 12vdc leaves there to the 2 rear backup lights, and they glow. sure check fuses, first , for ever and ever. that. ive posted the GC FSM links now like 100 times. so will skip that but what trans? 45RFE box. on some jeeps the switch (sadly) was moved to the solenoid module. ' called soleniod packaage http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=640503&ukey_product=8664680 but you need to learn what transmission is there. 42RE 45RFE or just what first, or you will buy the wrong parts. does this help. surely the dealer will answer you. even look up VIN in their database and see what trans is there, no grease on knuckels at all. the trans does have a plate on the side that reads. BLA BLA.. full id and serial.

You mean you stop driving and then there is no heat??? The easiest would be to change the thermostat... make sure to follow the rules... Only change when cool; get the right tools; easy on those bolts, you do NOT want to break one; get the correct thermostat at the parts store and the right gasket;

First thing i would do is change the fuel filter. diesels need them changed more often then a gas engine. if that doesnt help it could be the injector pump\ fuel pump. pull a fuel line off somewhere at the engine ( at an injector ) have someone turn it over and make sure its getting fuel

bad control see FSM book,factory service manual page HVAC all this is covered. or at alldata.com

Need more info. Won't turn completely off when the car is running? Most fans will not completely turn off unless you turn the heat and air control to off. Or is it still running when you turn the engine off.

How to diagnose an overheating 3.7
It might be the timing belt!

only clue here is Drive, we drive M/t so that matters. as does what a/t you have and if 4wd, dont break the brakes, its dangerous. LOL I think (alldata.com login and look) the transmission is shifted with Tcm AND THE MANUAL lever my guess its using the lever. right. ? the lever moves a cable and the cable changes the trans internal mANUAL valve, if the cable is good, the valve is failing levels at spec, using operators guide RULES> dont guess, read. is the filter fresh, and AFT fresh if not , may be the 50k service is NOW moment,???????? or, is engine rpm below, 800, foot off gas. that failure causes, the A;T clutch to release. so not looking at RPM of engine is missed critical fact.

Be sure all trim insulation is still present...as panel was previously removed...could have been left out...

check the hinges and look too see if the the bolts are loose or the door moved. look for differences in the paint. have someone help you hold the door as you loosen bolts, adjust door and then tighten the bolts. also look at the other doors that are ok.

I don't know why , but you can reset the check engine light by disconnecting the postive battery cable only and wait 10 - 15 minutes and then reconnect this will rest your light, if there is a real problem the light will come back on, otherwise it was just a minor emission problem and correct itself.




Melvin
St Louis

Depends on what engine you have.

what could be happening is the spark plug boots/wires are leaking + voltage to the - ground and even though you don't feel it a slight shot is enough to set a code if your specific engine has ignition wires check them closely by bending the boots/wires and checking for hairline cracks/burns/wear marks on the wires or if they are brittle they will break when you bend them if you find this on one change all of them /the same goes for distributor less ignition check the boots the same way aggressively bending them if they are dried out and brittle the same thing will happen /also you must check the coils for hairline cracks and the wires that plug into them for brittle insulation/cracked this happens from high heat exposure for long time periods the plastic plugs themselves could be cracked inside causing the voltage leak from on to the other in either case most times this will happen under hard acceleration because the demand for power by stepping on the gas harder makes the system fire faster and more continuously and this will create the voltage escape from a leaking component because there is constant voltage and the component is getting hotter from the increased rate of firing thus creating the open air gap for the leak/one more thing here a lot of times a mechanic will puncture a wire to check for a short in the electrical system instead of checking it through the connector this is a bad practice because it will create a voltage leak so you must look slowly at all wires related to the ignition if they have wire looms on them take them off(plastic tube wire covers) the problem can be concealed inside and you would not look there because you would think they are protected but if rufus the dufus cornholio your mechanic is a bad one this could have been done while checking the electrical / or if dishonest creating a problem to keep you coming back and spending $$$ a few times good luck if you suspect a hole somewhere wrap it with black electrical tape and see if the problem stops you must disconnect the battery each time to clear the code/s that are set and please forgive me if I'm telling you things that you already know I'm not there and I don't know how much mechanical knowledge you actually have and I'm not at the vehicle so I tried to cover all the bases for you GOOD LUCK! and go slowly it takes time to do this but the slower you examine the better chance you have of finding the problem post back with progress Stephen HAPPY NEW YEAR !

look for a ground wire that wasn't installed after the repair or a broken ground wire from the impact

I would throw it on a scanner. Find out what's wrong. But with no scanner, the first thing I would do is check or replace the transmission range sensor/neutral safety switch. But, you most likely have a transmission swap or rebuild. Everything is electronics now days. You could have a bad solenoid, bad or shorted wire/s or a bad transmission.

get it serviced pops to mind. or read the real FSM for each case, (like we all do...) my 2008 fsm is 7000 pages. so.... cant upload that. nor yours. if you open the book it explains how cruise works. on newer cars its very fussy, (lawsuits) so has many logical permissive's, not just brakes! ,like in the dark ages of cruise. on mine, the ECU/;PCM will cut dead the cruise for many other reasons,,, ECU errors, DTC ERRORS. lets be clear, if the PCM thinks speed (transmission) or idle controls have ISSUES, it disables cruise. for your and my safety, or be like a Toyota and gillion buck Lawsuit. it will get worse this set of rule for every newer year,,,,,,,,,,, EVAP gas cap loose or if nOT get it pressure tested or read the FSM for all EVAP tests. its all there, just read it and ask questions not clear, gue$$ing will be expensive, ask, FSM real https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/Home.aspx buy one and read up. or alldata.com (goggle that, 1gillion hits) and only $15 bucks. when you scan any 05 jeep ,you need a real scan tool ,not some autozoned lame tools, one that shows ALL FACTORY codes and you never posted even one DTC. nor if there were others.l i use an INNOVA 3160 that sees them ALL. get a full scan , avoid the stinkn zone and go to a real shop with real tools, any ASE shop can do this,no need for dealers. any. what light? jumped what. LEARN MODES: (TRANS, IDLE, NAV, RADIO, AND OTHERS) this car and many cars , can have learn modes when you pull the battery or flat line it. (DRAINED IT) all that is covered in the book, no need to guess. If DIY you need a scan tool so you can fix it, (and see all codes, not just federal P0 codes) the reset it ! then see if you fixed it. (scan tool shows no DTC) The CEL lamp on newer cars is near useless. (its just a smog lamp, ok) if not, you get to drive around all over playing that game. tell more get more. alldata.com (log in and check it out)

if radio is still stock most arent this old, cassette there?, OMG. if stock the operators guide covers that. get one? or if not stock get the makers name (sony? and part number off radio and get the manual from sony, (replace name with your name, sony clarion, what ever)

but does the key work (MY SHOE DROPS)

It can be attached to the charcoal canister (by the fuel tank) or up behind the inner fender well of the left rear tire. But before you go replacing an expensive part. you should have it put on a scanner to find the exact problem. You could only need a gas cap. This is an EVAP problem.