20 Most Recent 2001 Jeep Cherokee - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Does it stop blowing after a couple of minutes? Are you overheating? Check you coolant level and make sure you are running the right mixture of anti-freeze, Is t-stat working?

;-) search party. Depends on when; 1. If on part load, but not on high throttle it is a vacuum leak on manifold between throttle body and cylinder likely at a vacuum hose for power brake, emission controls or some such. 2 If on high load: Spark plugs, spark plug wires, injectors, low fuel pressure,

What is the mileage on the vehicle? What type of oil are you using, synthetic or conventional oil? Older engines that have a fair amount of wear (loose essentially). I had this problem on two different vehicles. If the oil is not near time to be changed (fairly clean oil) I would get a new oil filter and prepare it by filling it with STP oil treatment. This is thick stuff and will thicken your oil. Remove the old oil filter and put the new one on. Start the engine and let it idle for a minute then shut it off. Check the oil level and add more STP to bring it back up to the full mark. Start it and check the oil pressure. If this helps bring the pressure up then I'd say its time to go to a thicker oil. I switched to 0w40 synthetic after trying 5w30 (5w30 is recommended by mfr.) and have had no more trouble. The thing is that synthetic oil tends to thin more at temperature than conventional oil does.

The only scenario I am familiar with that causes a blinking or flashing Check Engine Light is misfires. Your description of the car shaking is another sign of possible misfires as well. There could be other issues, it would be helpful to know what codes are getting set. However, with the flashing check engine light and the shaking of the car the first thing I would do, if it hasnt been done in a while, is a tune up. Replace the plugs to start. I believe you have a distributorless ignition meaning that you have coil packs instead of a distributor.

Your coil pack sits on top of the plugs. Look to the left side of the engine, just at the bottom of the valve cover and you will see (assuming you have the 4.0L 6-cylinder engine) a series of three humps. Those three humps is your coil packs and there should be four bolts that hold it in. Take out those four bolts, pry up the coil pack and then you will have access to replace the spark plugs.

While your at it, Id replace the fuel filter, air filter and other general maintenance/tune up items like that.

open glove box, take out oper guide, there it is? read it.? or FSM chapter cooling? here http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service look up self.?

the fuel tank on all modern cars have a fume vent system.called EVAP all fumes are captured, and later burned to save the humans,,,, etc. why not post the DTC errror??????? why not tighten the gas cap and clear all DTC errors and see if it goes away. (99% DO, in fact the newer jeeps just put , gas cap loose on VFD dash display now.,.. amazing as that is) (100% free that) or buy a new cap that has a vacuum breaker , a stock cap, real. if it still fails the shop does a gas cap neck , (tank system) pressure leak down tests. and if that fails we pressure it up to 1/2 psi and find the leak using a varity of methods. (hose to ear, soap up lines, sonic tool, isolation methods, pinching hoses, and lots of other magic too lazy to type.........

USA car or the Export?tell me what CPS means. we dont use that name since 1990no engine stated, so how would we answer such a questions.4.0L or 4.7L or 5.7L ?engine.my guess is the cam sensor? or the crank sensor?CKP or CMP?how often once a week, decade, ? all parts on care fail repeatably say in 100 yearsbut my guess i means, inside 5 years, but what, do say.clear facts make answers very easy.my wild guess.The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) on the 4.0L 6 cylinder engine is bolted to the top of the oil pump drive shaft assembly. The sensor and drive shaft assembly is located on the right side of the engine near the oil filter. The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) on the 3.7L V6 engine is bolted to the front/top of the right cylinder head. The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) on the 4.7L V-8 engine is bolted to the front/top of the right cylinder head. The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) on the 5.7L V8 engine is located on right side of timing chain cover below alternator.The Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) on the 4.0L 6 cylinder engine is mounted to the transmission bellhousing at the left/rear side of the engine block The CKP on the 3.7L, 4.7L and 5.7L engines is located at the left rear of the engine just above the starter motor.now may guess based on those 2 sensors above.the CAM SENSOR (in pure english) fails for heat.all have a tendancy to fail for too much heat,and for overheating the engine.the closer it fits the the engine, the more likely it will fail. (heat)some that fit to cam ends love to fail soon., heat.failure mode 2 is overvoltage.if the Alternator goes bad and overvoltage , in fact over 15vany electronic part can fail, even light bulbs.mode 3using a pressure washer can wreck just about anything made.mode 4dropping it to the concrete,you, others, or the shipper, mode 5a dumb ,mechanci , hot wired it and burned it up, or injured it. (called the walking wounded)that pretty much covers it.but what sensor exactly and what engine.and how long did it last in months

ever do a brake job????? or a full inspection of same? most cars the pads have early warning wear, noise makers. not examining brakes first is bad news. always inspect first. then guess later. if ever at all.

to what? there are many first post symptoms or job. why must be guess all that. engine running bad, scan DTC errors? what? some engines have up to 5 sensors. related to heat. IAT, air temp ECT water temp coolant dash gauge heat. mAF sensors have one. if opted. a/C over heat sensors. my guess is its the ECT. am i correct? this is part of the EFI fuel injection system. click chapter fuel systems. chapter 14 page 50 , figure 40 see it, its screwed in to the thermostat housing i bet it not bad. the tests are supper easy, ask, if water temp is 180f + hot. and the scan tool shows, 180F , ITS NOT BAD. easy huh? http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service

Which ignition light? There are a number of warning lights on the instrument panel. It could be the charge indicator, which could mean a bad alternator. Does the battery run down? Check voltage on the battery. If more than 13.8 volts while the engine is running, alternator is OK. Less than that, overhaul the alternator. It could be the MIL (maintenance Indicator lamp / engine check light) which means the car is due for a service. The light can be turned off by a mechanic, or you could get a DTC reader on ebay and turn it off yourself if you're happy the service is up to date. It could be the brake indicator light, which could mean either the handbrake is not fully released, or the brake fluid level is low, or the brake pads are worn down. Just some possibilities, give more information.

car running or not, or both, ??? overloaded. or too many lamps burned out. the idle is not related unless like 400 rpm, and alternator drops off line and battery dies and voltage drops to say 10v and the blinker brain goes nuts? nah. it just bad blinks, winks, turns, ./ so got trailer wiring hack job got collsion damage to wires at 4 corners.>? looking works. did you test all lamps by hand.>? some lamps (metal base) can short inside, so remove them if metal. "brass cup style"

mine has split manifold the I6 and runs odd sensor arrangements. 2 fronts, bank 1 , front, back 2 rear. oddly S1a, S1b and a rear cat sensor rear. s2. there is calif and fed setup. neither stated. so cant show photos. click exh. system turbo or not, i cant guess that either. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service

it needs service. for sure. (easy huh?) per opr. guide too. you posted this many times right? are you parked or moving.????? lots of questions, but we start with just one. if parked, and it goes warm , does the compressor clutch drop out? if yes, say so. and we can to a logical conclusion. mr. sparks out.

oxygen sensors are always located downstream of exhaust manifold. theres the primary and secondary oxygen sensors. the primary is located before the catalytic converter and the secondary is located after the catalytic converter.

it could be a crank sensor, ignition module, coil, if this has a distributor could be pickup coil or a bad distributor, bad cap/rotor. could also be a PCM problem on the ignition circuit.

Ignition module or coil pack and crank sensor which means you might have a timing belt issue are common factor

I do not believe so . Code p0715 if that relates to your question refers to the turbine shaft speed(TSS) sensor-circuit malfunction===causes wiring--TSS sensor--ECM/TCM The drive speed sensor is the sensor that works the speedo and sends impulses to the transmission control module to change gears in relation to the turbine speed sensor This is how the TCM knows when to change ratios in the transmission because of the differences in recorded speeds of the engine torque convertor and the drive shaft

Now you did what you did You will have to solder the wires & heat shrink tube them Why would a 2001 vehicle need a need socket?

engine coolant. Antrifreeze, is yours at 50% (a $2 tool) its regulated, by the Thermostat in the engine. the STAT, come is ratings for 180F to 200F. we cant guess what is in your car. i can quote spec, but whats there is what counts. no pyro gun to test the system? if not all this is guessing. why not get it serviced.

Could be under the dash,or on the side panel near brake pedal,or under hood.