20 Most Recent 2001 Jeep Cherokee - Page 2 Questions & Answers

On hood latch..where cable goes in..there is a hole there..trip it back..or take the 3 bolts away from latch

Try and get a hold of the cable at any location , You will have to have a pair of pliars , and it usually take a good pull. Short of that is the only way is going straight to the latch, after removing the grill.

Misfire can b caused by bad ignition..fuelinjection or poor compression. Test these three. Connections may b worn. That cylindr mite hav a gasketleak

why not post symptoms. and we can tell you where all fuse are and there names and F number.or look yourself, the book is free, 24/7. read first.the operators guide show thisand my posted FSM over 200 times(free too)covers ALL that2001 wjhttp://www.morris4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#servicethe whole book. RTM?

Even with the mode switch in off position? The mode switch is tied into the circuit for the heater speed control switch. Other than that, I don't know. Are you sure you replaced the right relay, the blower motor relay?

Top up the fluid level, low fliud level will cause this

Tengo una jeep Cherokee 1994 y la pongo en parking y no la Agarra y le pongo cambio y no entrance el cambio Tampoco

the operators guide in the glove box answers that. lost that? what does bulb do ? park /blink, side marker, or head lights. all are in the book that came with car see, index, and bulbs.

2001? last year in USA. so is this it? what is the lock issues. unstated. lets do just windows.... fails going up and down or only up? (other shoe drops) using a schematic and a voltmeter the electric windows uses electric DC motors. we can hot wire them to test them. we can check the voltage to the motor is 12vdc, when commanded down and up. if it works one way, say down, but not up the window can be jammed. pure mech. failures... check that by hand. inside. for example. there are usually these parts to window drive. circuit breaker. relays switches motors. the path is very simple, you throw a switch and power (12v) is sent to the motor, that means a simple voltmeter can find the failure point in minutes work. get it serviced if the VM is scary? the manual on 2001 is free online now. posted over 100 times, searches work btw. chapter 8w is wiring, see it? 8v-60-1 is windows. so.... lets look there. so the driver is good? up and down , so lets do F/R passenger? dead.... im guessing... see... all dead but driver? so see this drawing. got 12vdc to the front left box>? seems so.b but it must pass through said box. to the right side box below (center) if you look carefully the left box feeds power and ground to the right box(means switch box) and the switches reverse polarity to the motors to go backwards. use a volt meter. and see if you get power to this motor in both directions. up and down, 12vdc is normal at motor. when active. my guess is the left door switch is malfing..

i have a similar issue on my 03 liberty, but all the lights are off. there should be a panel around the shifter that you can just pop out and get you started

Have ran into this before,and might be a fairly simple solution, check fuse #17 and #24 in the PDC (the power distribution center under the hood,pass side) even if the fuse is good,blow out the contacts and make sure the fuse has no corrosion/is clean. Also redo your grounds,paying careful attention to the ones at the oil dipstick holder,AND the the upper one from the valve cover to the firewall. Very much doubt you have 3 02 sensors gone bad at the same time. Also make sure the plugs into the PCM are secure and clean. This should take care of your problem.

sounds like the actuator inside the door, has come loose from the locking mechanism. You may need to remove the inner panel of the door and observe the motions as you attempt to lock the door.

If all the fuses are good,replace the crank shaft sensor,this is the problem.

They are 13-15 lbs if you have the plastic cover. 35 lbs if you have the metal one. Thats from a Chrysler repair site that you have to be authorized to access, so I can't post a link.

Code 118 means the signal from the coolant temp sensor is out of range. The sensor and wiring would need to be tested.

nobody here will ever do this. its a hand on job. get help , live help that can see, touch drive, and hear. no kidding... no vibs in neutral, gunning engine fast. only moving in a real shop they'd do this on a life, and is very dangerous work why not let them risk life and limb.

lost the operators guide, ? this, you cant find this? front is on stalk, but not this.

i always remove the cover so i can turn and guide easier

Did you put a "noid" light on the injector connector to ensure it's getting the pulse to open? Do you know that you are getting spark at the plug? The HV could be leaking out of the cable or connector(s). Finally, if all that's good you may need to do a compression test.