I own a 1994 Jeep Wrangler YJ. My instrument panel went out. where is my fuse box.
i had the same problem. i drive a 95 so im not sure if it differs from were the fuse box is. look righ above you pedals to your far left. it should be right there. also if you instruments went out it will be a 15 fuse. its a blue fuse. next my panel went out cuz of the wires on my transmission. if yor looking at your jeep at the front. the wires will be on your left. make sure they are not burned or anything. it will be right on the side of your tranny. mind got burned by the exaust so they were shorting. check that is and see if that is what is it. for a temp fix just put some electrical tap around the wires and you should be set for a wile. good luck
Posted on Jun 30, 2008
I would like to know how the knuckle and spindle break down to remove the front axle shaft to replace the ujoint. this is on a 1994 Wrangler
Remove the brake assy. Remove the rotor. Remove the big axle nut. There should be 3 bolts that hold the hub bearing assy in place. Remove those bolts. Tap the hub bearing assy. off. Pull the axle shaft out.
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
can you please help walk me thru replacing the seal on the rear transfer case on my 1994 jeep wrangler 4 cylinder.
do you have step by step instructions on how i can do this?
please let me know.
thanks!
Rear output shaft? you should only have one transfer case :) Ok so put the ebrake on. Put the truck in neutral. Matchmark the yoke to the tcase. remove the bolts that hold on the ujoint. This should drop the driveshaft from the tcase. Use an axle socket to remove the nut holding on the yoke. Tap the yoke off with a soft face mallet. pull out the felt ring. Using a seal puller remove the seal. tap in a new one very carefully. reinstall in reverse order. ensure you torque the nut to the required torque aling with the ujoint bolts.
Posted on Apr 15, 2009
Want a jeep but need to secure 3 kids in the back. Anyone ever bolt a 3rd set in?
Bolting it in a third row seat? that'd be fairly easy...just need something solid to anchor it to (like a thick piece of metal) on the underside to put the bolt through. do the same with seat [lap] belts and that should solve any law issues (actually some states i believe don't "require" rear seat passengers to be belted in, but I'd strongly suggest it for the kids safety!)...my big question is where are you finding enough room for a 3rd row seat? wranglers aren't exactly loaded on space...
as for torque...wrangler seats are fully removable (makes it easy to wash mud and stuff out) so as long as the bolts tighten down (air gun preferably, but you can arm twist em if need be) you'll be fine, just make sure everything is as secure/sturdy as the factory seats
Posted on Dec 31, 2008
I have a 1994 Jeep Wrangler S 2.5ltr. It does not have a pcv valve for me to replace. It was not desinghed on this year and model, it has a pcv elbow that allows breathing both ways. I am having oil blowing out my dipstick tube and connot for the life of me figure it out!!! My oil guage reads 80+ as soon as i start the jeep and stays there the entire time it is running. I figured it was just a faulty guage or sending unit. Not sure now though..... There is pressure building up in the oil pan from somewhere and pushing oil out the dipstick tube. I have read that this is called ''blow-by''. Well ok, how do you fix blow-by??? It was not doing this 2 months ago,,,, and then one day it all started happening. Please help.... is it an oil pump? or the oil sump? or the iol rings on the pistons? or the valves? or what?
Oil is also blowing into the air filter breather box where the pcv elbow goes in at. how do i get it to stop pressurizing itself to much and run like it used to?
Thanks,
Dan
On top of the valve cover there is a fresh air breather unit. Make sure the breather unit is not plugged.
Also the fixed orifice PCV should be clear. Find a tool that will go through the orifice and make sure it is clean.
Remove the vacuum hose and check it for cracks or internal damage. With the engine running, make sure you have vacuum through the hose.
Let me know when your finished cleaning the crankcase breather system.
Regards,
Posted on Apr 09, 2009
The wipers on my 94 wrangler can be moved from side to side on the windshield freely by hand and the the activation wiper motor does not seem to activate the wiper arms when i attempt to activate the wipers. Any ideas on the possible cause(s) and methods to repair?
sounds like wipers arm is not securely attached to shaft that is attached to wiper motors. They can strip out and you can either us JB weld to put them on or get new ones or junk yard ones.
Posted on Oct 14, 2009
ignition on jeep yj will not start engine. all other electrical works. when i turn the key. nothing happens
Before blaming the starter make sure the battery is fully charged. It should be around 13V.
Starter circuits for the most part operates in the following way. Turning the ignition key supplies power to a relay situated in the engine compartment which in turn activates the solenoid on the starter which powers the starter itself.
Make sure your vehicle is in Neutral(Manual gearbox) or Park(Auto box) Locate the starter motor. On the starter there is another cylinder like object called the solenoid. There is a thick red wire running from the battery connected to this. There is also a much thinner wire which activates the solenoid. To test the starter run a wire from the + on the battery to where the thin wire connects on the solenoid. (ignition must be off) This should activate the starter and turn the engine. If nothing happens the starter is probably at fault. Before removing the starter make sure that the engine is properly earthed as this could also give problems.
If the starter does kick in the problem is further "upstream" Most probable cause would be the relay. If you can locate it, replace since it is relatively cheap.
Starter repair is best left to the experts. Get a quote for a new starter before you have the old one repaired. You'd be surprised at how many times it turns out that replacement costs the same as repair.
Let us know if you've solved the problem.
Posted on Dec 10, 2009
a/c high head pressure low suction
Hi, High head and a low suction pressure can indicate a couple of different things. One, condenser coil very dirty and needs to be washed very well. This will bring your head pressure down but let it run back up to normal engine temperatures. If the head is ok after you clean it, and suction is even lower, you may still be low on charge. If the system is over charged will cause this problem. You may want to clean coil, evacuate unit, and weight in your charge. Charge is critical on a auto a/c. You may also have a restriction in the filter drier or site glass. Go through the basics first. Suction should run about 18 p.s.i. Head will run about 27*F over ambient.If you are running R-12 or 134-A, the pressures will be close on your gauges. Go by your scale on the inner part of your gauge which is temperature. So, for R-12 with an outdoor temp of 90 degrees, your head will be about 150 p. s. i. Remember, the charge is critical. Good luck,
Shastalaker7
Posted on Feb 07, 2010
how to bypass auto shutdown relay
In my 2002 Chrysler T&C, the ASD relay is a standard Bosch relay like all the others. It is in the Fuse/Relay box beside the battery. You can try swapping it with another less-critical relay in the box, like say the AC clutch relay. To bypass it, jumper terminals 30 to 87 in the baseplate, as for most relays. I carry a little jumper wire w/ spade terminals in the box for such roadside kludge fixes, in all my cars. I think the most common problem is corrosion on the terminals in the box. My box also has plugs underneath which owners have reported corrosion, but no issues with mine in dry California, plus I fill all connectors with silicone grease to protect from moisture.
Posted on Sep 15, 2021
There is s burnt smell of plastic in the passenger compartment, fuse keeps blowing and speedometer, tach, fuel gauge don't work. Everything else seems to be okay, lights, radio, wipers etc. Could it be the ground for the instrument panel? If so, where do I find it?
It isn't the ground; if you lost the ground, it wouldn't be blowing fuses-it wouldn't be doing anything.
There may be a short in the panel, or in the wiring to it. You will need to pull the instrument cluster out to investigate. If the wiring and connectors look good, probably need a new cluster.
Posted on Dec 29, 2013
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