Top 20 1994 Jeep Wrangler Questions & Answers

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replace the fuel pump,the check valve that holds pressure on the fuel is in the fuel pump.The fuel in the lines is draining back into the tank

Check out the EVAP system to see if you have a broken charcoal canister or cracked vacuum line. Also check for vacuum leaks.. Those would cause hesitation, stalling. Read this post on EVAP Chrysler EVAP System Ricks Free Auto Repair Advice

Check the ASD Relay! Try pulling the relay, look on the side of the relay and it will have a diagram, your looking for the two main hot feed wires, one will be 30 and the other will be the one straight across from it, I can't think of it's number. Anyway, get a short piece of wire and clean each end and bend it so it will fit in where the two prongs of each of them numbers (30 and **) went and try to start your Jeep. Before you insert your wire into the slots, make sure you pay close attention to the diagram and how the relay fits into the slots! By the way, this ASD Relay is located under the hood in the main fuse block. My guess is you have something causing it to shut down that relay or possibly a bad relay, if the relay is bad you can try swapping it with another relay right there just make sure it is one you do not need to make the Jeep run like the a/c relay.

-How about clean the air flow sensor to find out. Good luck and don't drive too fast. Mai

You don't need a scanner. If you cycle the key off and on 5 times, the codes will start flashing. Here is a link to jeeps and their trouble codes. There aren't that many in the older OBD-1 systems. https://www.2carpros.com/articles/retrieve-trouble-codes-for-chrysler-dodge-plymouth-odb1-1995-and-earlier-car-mini-van-and-light-trucks If you have no trouble codes, check fuel pressure. Multiport injection is high pressure, above 40psi, but Jeep would have specs.

you need to check the voltage at the battery when you have trouble. should always remain above 12 volts. If not then the battery or the connections are bad. first test the battery right at it's lug terminals, then check the terminal connectors. battery or cable or connectors - def sounds like major voltage issue in the battery area!

the fsm 94 wrangler. we have a free book, 93 YJ see chapter, 8E-1 ? instrument...... (words only) then chapter,wiring, (last is list) see that? see pdf page, 55? index then on to instruments yj page 44 real. PDF page 110. BINGO. the it is. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service or alldata.com or any real FSM from jeep. 3 choices. always.

why not post symptoms and ask how to solve that.

lots of guessing.old car, but is Chrysler made, good that. 93+ok, the car has a cel lamp. is it glowing running\'?this is called misfire. is the engine stalling?on all cars that old the first thing do is check compression.the rules to end misfire are this (a full tuneup)fails1: compression all the fuel and spark in the world can not run dead cylinders. ever.2: then spark, check that all spark plug tips are clean and the spark is strong. then check timing, if any thing here is wrong fix that next.3: fueling this is complex and is always last. after spark.I6 4.oL is nice motor owned 3 since 1988. zillion miles on them.unlike 88s your\'s dont suck. mine had horrid french RENIX EFI......nasty that..... is...so you do the flash test on the CEL yet, see if you have DTCs stored.if not why not? this be like first. its free, and is very helpfulif you have DTCs/ stored. DIag mode is activated with.put the key in the ignition and turn the key to run (not start), then off, then run, then off, then run (that\'s 3 runs and 2 offs). Leave the key in the run positioncount the blicks, best done just after misfiring.fueling is complex.6 injectors that can leak ,or clog.the test is called a injector balance test. but is never donebefore the 3 fuel pump pressure tests and the 2 regulator testnever. are those to be skipped and the tool is $20 lousy bucks.if you get this far , we can do fueling all day. long.but we also check all sensors for valid inputs.as all ECU puke with bad inputs, all computers for that mattersaying good fuel pressure means zero with EFI, ZEROonly PSI matter.s not squirt tests. or other dribble tests.those only proves pump is not 100% dead.

run the fault codes. check the serviceability of the cat converter as it may be broken inside and blocking the exhaust

how , you mean step by step. (itty bitty)? well it does so just like all cars. the coax, (called consentric) has a bleed tap right next the the fluid line as it enters the bell housing, did you even look yet. is this the COAXIAL salve/throwout, same as the 93? read the real FSM https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/Home.aspx why not post the symtoms, btw ive owned 3 jeeps with the coax, yes, i hate them. had to pull tranny and transfere case or engine to fix them. read YJ, page clutch page here http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service page 14 covers it. it bleeds exactly like brakes. after all it uses brake like MC and slave. so you do the exact same methods. use the 2 man methods. fill it up. keep it full. person one presses the pedal , you crank the bleed valve. and air comes out, you close valve pedal up and repeat for no air, test a book on brakes , it not changed for 100 years the 2 man method. there are 5 methods, but the 2man is 100% free. just a hose to catch the juice.

If bulb or socket melted then replace socket. May be OEM part not sure. Easy fix just be sure to use seal type crimp connectors or you will be working on this a year later.

popping to where. the rear tail pipe end or air cleaner to engine or somewhere else? we cant guess this and is KEY to what it is. im blind and deaf here, and can not do 3D, sounds. either. direction, and locations are a human hands on thing.

Do you have power to the coil and injectors from the key switch ?

what is the question, the above is a statement, not a question. how to. should i. can it how can where is mine. like that. questions.

why not photo the failed, CHIT. xxxxx your name and reg , but leave all the DATA there. and bingo. we can not help blind, not at all, only you can ADD AND IMAGE.

Could be a faulty brake hose or caliper.

can i assume you pulled the side plug on tranny and the level is right there? or gone way down, ever do a 50k service? to it? M/T tranny (not auto) what engine? the m./t varies by HP of ENGINE. If its really in 5th ( i bet not) if the RPM rises fast that is called clutch slip yes, clutch bad. if not in 5th actual rpm will rise fast too. slip, if the other gears wroke like 4th at wide open throttle up hill gee the chutch is good. so its not going in to 5th (for lots of reasons) but 1 reason , is easy. -AX 4/5/15 transmission this tranny has a shift tower. (that thing on top that the shifter lever fits in to) most tranny that fail to actual shift into gear is caused by a $1 plastic part failure so pull the shifter off top of the shift tower. and look, is the plastic buffer parts all bad, missing, cracked or destoryed, sure they all end there... all. i can also remove the shifter, lever. and shift to 5ht by hand, and see that it DOES. it either does, or does not. if it does, the lever parts are bad. that simple. see part 61 (im guessing which of 5 tranny it is , ) http://cdn.liveoffroad.com/images/Aisin_AX5_Transmission.jpg

It isn't the ground; if you lost the ground, it wouldn't be blowing fuses-it wouldn't be doing anything. There may be a short in the panel, or in the wiring to it. You will need to pull the instrument cluster out to investigate. If the wiring and connectors look good, probably need a new cluster.