20 Most Recent 1994 Jeep Wrangler - Page 8 Questions & Answers

typical problem with jeeps, just gotta replace it

1. Check the battery with a voltmeter. Battery voltage should be 12.5 volts. If it shows less than proper voltage, jump-start the car, if possible. If the car will not jump-start, charge the battery and try again. If the battery will not take a charge, replace it. Once the car is running, check the battery for a charge from the alternator. Voltage at the battery with the engine running should be 14 to 14.8 volts. If it is under 13.8 volts, the alternator will need to be replaced. Batteries normally never die fast. Usually a cell goes bad first and the battery can still have 12.5 volts but not enough amperage to start a car. The same goes for the alternator--with one diode out, the amperage and voltage will drop.
   
2. 2 Check the battery terminals for looseness and corrosion. While checking the battery voltage, have a helper turn the key and try to start the car. With the key in "start," read the battery voltage, which should be no less than 10.5 volts. If it is lower, there's a bad cell in the battery that will need to be replaced. If the voltage remains the same and the starter does not engage, check the voltage at the large positive cable at the starter. If there is no voltage, the wire from the battery to the starter is bad. If there is voltage, go to the next step.
   
3. 3 Check the main fuses in the fuse and relay box on the driver's side fender well. If the fuses are good, check the relay. Pull the starter relay out and with the key off and check for power at one of the terminals in the relay plug. If there is power, turn the key on and have a helper hold it in the "start" position while the plug is checked for a second terminal to have power. If no power, there is a problem with the ignition switch or the security system. If there is power at the second terminal, then check the small wire on the starter solenoid for power when the key is in the "start" position. If there is power, then the starter is bad.
   
Engine Turns Over but Doesn't Start
4. 1 Pull a spark plug wire, insert a test spark plug into the wire and lay it against the block for a good ground. Let go of the spark plug and have a helper try to start the engine. Watch the spark plug for a spark. If there is no spark, there is an ignition problem. If there is a spark, reinstall the spark plug wire. If no spark was present, turn the key on and check the coil for power at one terminal. Check the opposite, negative terminal for the power to oscillate as in a duty cycle when the starter is engaged. If it does show an oscillation, the coil is bad. If there is no oscillation, there is a problem with the triggering of the coil. Check the crank position sensor for a signal. The crank sensor is located in the top of the transmission bell housing on the driver's side.
   
5. 2 Check the fuel pump fuse and relay the same way you did with the starter. If these are good, locate the fuel Schrader valve on the fuel rail on top of the injectors. Use a small screwdriver and push in on the Schrader while a helper turns the key on. If fuel pressure is present, check the injectors next. If there was not fuel pressure, the fuel pump is faulty.
   
6. 3 Pull the electrical connector off of the fuel injector and check for power at one terminal with the key on. Probe both terminals at the same time and watch for an alternating ground or a duty cycle as the starter is engaged. If there is no power to the fuel injectors, check the fuse. If there was power and no duty cycle, the computer injector driver circuits are at fault. This is under the assumption that there was no check engine light on. If the check engine light was on, go to next step.
   
7. 4 Plug the code reader into the OBD II port under the driver's side instrument panel and turn the key to "run" (keep the engine off). Hit the "read" button and the reader will interrogate the computer, and it will reply with a code number.
   
8. 5 Write the 4-digit number down and use the code interpretation sheet that comes with the code reader to reference the code. For instance, if it says that the crank angle sensor is bad, this controls the timing of the spark by giving a reference to the computer of top dead center on the number 1 cylinder. If the computer does not see this signal, it will not fire the ignition. There are numerous things that will prevent a start, and anything that the computer operates will be displayed. If no codes are present, that could cause a no start condition; the vehicle should be taken to a shop for a compression test and a more advanced diagnosis that can be done at home without the necessary (expensive) equipment.
   

Try replacing Co2 sensor, most people don't realized that unit need replacing every 50-75k miles also. if that does not work, take it to the dealer and have them plug it into the computer, that will allow for them to narrow it down. with service engine light on, it will effect some of your gas mileage and the performances. The dealer charge somewhere around 50 bucks to diagnose using their computer, however 50 bucks will appilied toward the repair bill if they do the work.

Hello
This noise problem is caused by the rear differential ring and pinion gears and or worn spider gears, the ring and the pinion gears are worn and this causes the classic gear whine symptom you hear, the only solution for this is to replace the ring and the pinion gears of the rear differential, due to the very high cost of this repair (about $1000.00) I would advise you to just live with it, if you can't do that the repair requires special equipment (precise setup of gear mess patterns) and a highly trained drive-line technician, if the rear gears are not set up correctly (Pinion Gear depth, side play and back lash) in a very short time you will develop the same whinning noise again, the gears and other parts needed to do this repair are in the range of $500.00, so getting it right the 1st time is a must.
I have rebuilt 100's of rear ends/differentials over my 35 year career, i am a certified master technician in drive line repair and diagnosis.

two things to start with is the brake light switch? Do the brake light come on when pedal is pushed? No Replace brake light switch. Yes the replace netrual safety switch. Thats a start good luck.

You may be right about a bad pcv valve i would start by replacing that, also theres been problems with the tubing for the pcv system, this contains a bunch of tubes a (plastic) that connect to the valve cover and air box and the intake this system gets blocked or restricted, and sometimes the hoses break so make sure its not broken or plugged,start with these tips, hope this helps.

Change your temp sender and your oil pressure sender and see if the problems still exist. It should not cost more than $20 to try

1994 Wrangler with 200,000 miles on the odometer. Similar problem here: Severe bucking and backfiring, and engine misses when traveling down the road. I did an entire tune-up (plugs, wires, distributor, distributor cap, and ignition coil), but got the same thing. I thought it was dirty fuel injectors, so, I poured a bottle in a few times on fill-ups. The final solution, was a bad alternator. My mechanic said it was sending voltage spikes to the computer, causing the engine bucking and back-firing problems.

Hey.This is just a long shot.The throwout bearing may be sticking.Its attached to the clutch fork and contacts the pressure plate.It slides along a shaft and the shaft may me sticking up,holding the bearing in the wrong spot.I have seen it happen.A VERY SMALL squirt of wd40 can fix it.You have to know where to put it.Not so much it gets on the clutch plate.Ask a friend or anyone that may know before you do it.This is your 1st option before you have to do any mechanical work on the car.It costs NOTHING.Check it before a workshop rips you off.Hope this helps you

for 2.5L engine, autozone says Firing order 1-3-4-2 --Distributor rotates clockwise

i have a 1989 wrangler. for no resan i know of the head light tail lights and interior lights stoppede working? anoone know why?

Hi,

When does this ticking sound occur?
Is it when you are in 4WD or just going along the road?

If you could define when it is occuring then it will help me to narrow the cause down.

Thanks

Jason

Providing you haven't taken the timing chain off the engine and replaced it incorrectly or that the chain itself has stretched way out of limits, your timing is locked and is non-adjustable. Your computer reads engine conditions and matches timing (and fuel delivery) to that via the engine sensors.

ITS ON CORE SUPPORT OR YOUTUBE IT