20 Most Recent 1998 Isuzu Trooper - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Was the car overheated before this?

Do a compression test first.find out where you stand with the engines condition. If you think its coming from the belt area directly, then remove the belt/s and manually spin and wiggle each pulley. Try to see if anyone of them have a bad bearing. Let us know.

Tighten then in an X pattern working outward to about 12 foot pounds. Do not over-tighten, use a rubber/cork composite gasket if available.

I never heard about it, why would you shut off the fuel?

No, but take rags and wipe off all the oil. Leave the skid plates off for the time being. Use jack stands or blocks to raise car so you can be under it. You need to run the engine so the transmission pump is working, then you will probably see where the oil is leaking from-possibly the pan gasket, maybe that component on the oil pan, or check if it is coming from higher up and collecting on the pan. Hope you find it. Pan gaskets are very easy to change. But you will have to replace the transmission fluid, as about 6-8 quarts will drain when you remove the pan. If you have to change the gasket, might as well change the transm. fluid filter as well-it's right underneath the pan, in most cases.

Pull off the injector connector and see if you have power on one of the two wires going to the injector, with key on. One of the wires should be hot with key on. The other wire is the injector ground. If no power on either wire, check the injector fuse. If fuse is good and is passing power with key on, check for broken wire between fuse and injector.If you have power on the injector drive wire at the connector, post back, and I can walk you through checking the injector ground. You would need a simple test light.

There is a clip on the splined shaft that goes into the transmission.Normally you use a pry bar to pop the shaft out.

Seems you may have a similar problem on your machine to the one we've had....The 4JX1 has taught us a lot we didn't know before, but specificly for this particular engine. First I'll advise you check the obvious things...Make sure that your battery is charged fully. I'll explain why later. Next make sure that there's no air in the fuel system....On the filter housing you'll see a ten millimeter bolt, which should be loosened and once loose push the plunger atop the housing to remove any air....If bubbles come out you'll know that that was the problem or part of it. With this particular engine the ORPS (sensor) gives the type of problems you're talking about. The sensor in question is fitted inside the tappit cover into the oil rail (which is the cylindrical pipe fitted over the valve assembly....It has two sensors, one being the ORPS and the other being an oil temprature sensor. To get to these it'll mean removing the tappit cover which means first removing the inter cooler....then the oil feed pipe which fits into the side of the cover, Remove all the screws (five each side and three at each end)....The ORPS is the smaller of the sensors....It is a sensor which operates with a cystal....The oil preesure pressing against it will cause a very small voltage which is actually a pulsed signal....That signal is sent to the management computer and controls the solid state switch which allows the circuit for the injectors to beecome active....Remeber the battery? If the battery is not able to turn the engine at what you'll hear as a normal speed the oil pressure will not be enough to send the signal which opens the injectors....The ORPS (Oil Rail Pressure Sensor) cost's about two hundred and twenty US$ and if you do the job yourself your probably save a similar amount on labour charges....The engine oil is also critical....Only use the recommended oil....If that has not been used....Buy double the amount of the correct oil and two of each filter....Drain what's there and then refill with the recommended oil (once vehicle is up and running) run the engine for thirty minutes or so (pref on the road) and then re drain and again fit the other set of filters and refil....We don't like the chemical engine flush addatives, too dangerous, esspecially in a diesel engine.... Hope this is help Ron Let me know how you get on. you can send your reply to this same web site...I'm one of the experts.... Cheers for now.... Best regards Johngee10

Google that questionI'm not sure if you have to drop the fueltank or not,to get to itEasy job once you find it

check for a vaccuum leak this is where i would start if it rolled into my shop. possibly a PCV valve sticking or a hole in the hose, this hose should run from the valve cover, or crank case and then to the intake, or carb.

Replace the termostat,