20 Most Recent 2006 Chrysler Town & Country - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Is the security light flashing? did the car start run for a few seconds and then stop before getting to the point you are at now? if yes then you car has a security issue most likely the remote head key has failed and now by trying repeatedly you have compounded the problem and have a locked up ECU also.

We just changed out our catalytic converter. We got ours from O'Reilly's Automotive for ~$250 and the best part is that the new ones come in two pieces (which means no torch). Being not the slimmest folks, we had to raise it high, but once you get under it, you can literally reach right up into where the four bolts that hold the CC in (get new ones with lock washers), disconnect the Oxygen sensor (which you should replace) and man-handle off of the muffler in the back. Like I said, the new one is a two-piece, so you remount the CC itself and then work the pipe on. You may need to purchase a separate bracket if the pipe and CC don't go on snug. Don't forget to plug the new sensor back in!

you need to plug in to a obd-11 to find the code

You will find it beside the battery in the engine compartment. Black plastic cover.

An alternator or generator--- has nothing to do with starting system New Battery Wouldn't you be looking at the starter solenoid or the starter, for possible failure, if the cables are good & in place Could be a failed ignition switch Lots to check there WON'T CRANK OR WON'T START ???????

At the base of the door there should be a pop out panel about the site of a deck of cards. In there will be a manual release. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/nathaniel_9ed79ef078a2f164

You should have at least 3 keys for all your vehicles Work on that issue first

There are a few things possible that can cause this, but if it happens alot more often when you back up, it might be the rollover safety switch that cuts the fuel pump to prevent fires when the car rolls on it's top. I've seen a few of those go bad, but it doesnt happen on each and every model, but dodges and fords had a few models that were notorious for this. If the switch is good, then probably a bad contact on the fuel pump, either current or ground side. A frayed wire that comes loose can short itself on the body and prevent the pump from getting it's 12v supply. Main thing to check will be pressur at the injection rail on the engine when it shuts off. You usually have a check valve there for that purpose. It's usually made like a tire valve, so you can just push on the middle pin to release pressure. If fuel shoots out pretty good, then the fuel pump is doing its job and the problem is elsewhere. If there is no or little pressure there, then the pump definetly cuts off either cause of defective wiring, defective pump, or defective safety switch as i stated earlier.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhPsIhxcf64

Wrong meaning nothing, full?? Nothing, a cable was disconnected, fuse worn, or the sensor is broken, if it is full,,,,,,, a cable is broken and it is touching a metal part. In any case check the sensor located in the engine, disconnect the cable with the ignition on(not the engine running!!), and touch any metal part, the meter should be showing full, if yes, change the engine sensor. If not, check the cable or the meter.

I have found out that either the seatbelt sensor or the clock spring for the driver's bag is faulting. The best suggestion is to go to the dealership to have it diagnosed. I know it is not the answer you want to hear but this has been the case in the past.

Check all the connections and fuse.

sounds like the fuel pump

Free wiring diagrams and TSB's for every make and model: http://www.bbbind.com/technical.html Click on tech. service bulletins and wiring diagrams. Next page, agree to end user license agreement. Next page, click on wiring diagrams, then enter year, make, model, and engine size. From the drop-down list of systems, choose "interior and driver amenity", then subsystem under that, will be horn. Click on "search" and it will show you that diagram. You can access every system's wiring diagram for your vehicle.

If it's leaking inside the vehicle it's not a hose, but more likely your heater core or related connection. Nothing you want to tackle yourself unless you're mechanically inclined. Try some radiator seal and if that fails , look for a trusted mechanic.

You may have a leak in the hydraulic system, just enough juice to push it open but not enough to keep it up. Open the door by hand, hold it up for a moment and then let it go. If it drops quickly(don't hurt yourself!), it's probably the motor; if it goes down slowly with a hiss, it's probably the hydraulics. Good luck.