Top 10 2005 Chrysler PT Cruiser Questions & Answers

HEY EVERYONE.... SORRY FOR THE CAPS BUT I FINALLY FOUND SOMEONE WITH A BRAIN AND GOT THIS PROBLEM FIXED FOR FREE!!!!!!!! Now I have about 20 forums to go back to and save hundreds of PT Cruiser Owners the time money and aggrevation we have all experienced.
I have to give my friend John (now in my opinion the best auto mechanic in South Florida) the credit. Took him 10 minutes to give me the answer, took several Chrysler dealerships about 5 visits and weeks of diagnostics to finnaly agree with him!

The Solution: Replace the Catalytic Converter (FREE under 100,000 mile warranty - every car)!
Quote from dealer service receipt "check vehicle for stalling. found catalytic converter plugged up. Replaced catalytic converter."
part# 5085905AC CONVERTER-CATALYTIC
part# 4881012AB GASKET-EXHAUST MANIFOLD T

Please spread the word to all user groups - but give John credit! - Thanks, Rickster

I have finally found the problem, check your wire harness from the camshaft position sensor to the main wire bundle. Mine had a bad wire because it was secured and it laid across the coolant hoses running by the harness. I wrapped the wires and secured them with wire ties as best I could and it seems to have fixed the issue.

1. check and make sure that your tires are inflated to the correct pressure

2. turn the ignition switch to the ON position. If the low tire pressure warning light comes on, push and hold the tire pressure warning reset switch (think the switch is in the glovebox, but not sure) until the warning light turns off and then release the switch.

3. now press and hold the tire pressure warning reset switch until the low tire pressure warning light blinks three times.

4. initialization is *not* completed until driving at the vehicle speed of 19 mph or over for more than one hour. the tire pressure monitoring starts when initialization is completed.

I had a similar problem with my car. It turned out the O2 sensors were fine and the issue was a leak in the throttle body causing the engine to run lean. If you have an ODB2 scanner you can look at fuel trims, etc and will be able to tell.

1. This is a common problem with the 2005 PT Cruisers, and the worst case scenario is you will have to take it to the dealership for a software upgrade.
2. Many times, if you disconnect the battery for 30 minutes or so, and then reconnect the battery, the convertible top and windows will start working again. I would try this a couple of times if the fuses are found to be good.
3. If it still fails to work, check with the dealership to see about getting your computer reprogrammed.
4. If all else fails, you may have a bad window switch and convertible top switch, but is unlikely that both would have gone out at the same time.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

You find it here.


Fuse box diagram and description for Chrysler PT Cruiser

Chrysler PT Cruiser 2001 2005 fuse box diagram Auto Genius

When you turn the key on the ASD relay should turn on the fuel pump and power the injector, Do this lets cheat the system go to the ASD rely open the cover expose the inside have some one turn the key on does the ASD make contact? If not turn the key on collpase the ASD so it make contact do you hear the fuel pump come on? Now try this just as how you iopen the ASD do the same to the starter relay. Put the car in gear e brake on someone in the vehicle in case the car start and you are in front of it and it runs you over so at least they step on the brakes. Key on ASD exposed as your collapse the starter relay does the ASD relay turn on? Here why if you can control all the relay from under the hood you will need a ignition switch (the eletrical part)

I hve the same problem go under the hood for the fuse box you will c a fuse that has a blk clip around the whole fuse it self to open it use a small screw driver the ones u use for ur glasses nd open it c if it needs to be changed out if good jst unplug it nd c wat it does on my car I jst unpluged it nd now everything working I think its called a iud some wired name but u can't miss it good luck

the sensor heater circuits have to be diagnosed; you probably didn't need to replace them.

This one is pretty easy to figure out. Your seatback isn't working correctly. Okay, I'll grant that my answer may seem pretty obvious, but, it really isn't, please hear me out.

When you yank on the handle the pawl that engages and locks the seatback into position, so that it won't move, is removed from its receiver. In this mode, the seatback moves freely back and forth as there is nothing to prevent its movement back and forth. You use this movement to find the exact seatback angle for you and when you have, you release the handle and the pawl is reengaged and the seat is locked. (There are various safety features involved that assure you that your seatback will remain locked in position. While the pawl and receiver are quite sturdy, you cannot depend on them alone in a crash. So, there is at least one interlock device that engages when the pawl goes home. The interlock helps to "rigidize" the seatback so it doesn't move.)

What is happening in your car's case, though is this, the interlock may be broken so that even if the pawl releases from the receiver, which it apparently is doing, your seatback remains locked because the linkage between the handle, pawl and the interlock is not working. You will have to have the interlock (it could be that device) and its linkages repaired before the problem will clear up.