Question edited for clarity, add maker, and 'PT', no periods.
Question moved to model category.
Put the red spout on the can of WD40 and give a good squirt in the hole until it bubbles out. Do the same the next day. That should fix it, but if it doesn't you need a locksmith and probably a new lock.
I take help from online websites that have this service like helping in repair some like reliable-store have instant help.. others are a bit slow which I don't prefer... rest is up to u.. U can also get free manuals
I don't see any online reference to that code: Are you sure it's correct? How did you get it? Most codes for the standard OBD diagnostic system begin with a "P" followed by four numbers. Many auto supply stores will let you borrow a code reader (free) with instructions on how to use it (in the parking lot). It's usually a quick and easy way to check the codes.
Some of those do it yourself alarms or starters kit want you to splice one of the wires on the the ALDL to get power. Those wires often get damaged. I'll look under there and check. My cigarette lighter fuse was blown and caused mine not to work. Also, some vehicles have fuses inside and under the hood.
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Check for 5 volt reference signal at the TPS - throttle position sensor , could have shorted sensor causing the problem . Do you know what a computer 5 volt ref. signal is ? Video's on youtube . Your engine computer controls the starter motor relay which turns on the starter . Free wiring diagram's here
http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine . Under system click on engine ,then under subsystem click on starting . Click the search button then the blue link. Find the starter motor relay in the under hood fuse / relay box , pull it out an look at the bottom , where the pins are . You should see four set's of numbers , 30 , 87 & 85 , 86 . PIn's 30 & 87 are for the power feed to starter , pin 30 should have battery volt if tested with a voltmeter . If you jumped pins 30 & 87 with a piece of wire if the starter is good an battery cable an connections are good the starter would spin the engine over . Just so your not confused , jump where the relay plugs into the fuse box , not the pins of the relay .
5 volt reference
If the 5 volt reference is good , check power an ground circuits to the PCM - engine computer .
If that is good , suggest you take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop for more indepth testing .
like you said something broke. that is a great guess. open the hood and jack up the car. you may need to remove the center console to get at the shifter. you want to get under the car and check the shifter cable to the transmission and see if its broke there or disconnected from the linkage. if its not then follow it into the cab through the floor and follow to the shifter. the cable amy be about 6 feet long maybe shorter or longer depending how it i run around. if its not broke under neath its inside. should be a matter of inspecting and removing panels to get at it. check youtube for any videos on disassembly for panels. sometimes it can help. either that or pry and pull till you get it off. if you don't have rear wheel drive then just open the hood and look at the top of the trany and you should see the shifter there and might have to remove some stuff to get at it. they pack stuff in there tight
Blasts Freon out of the compressor? Have you witnessed refrigerant gas being expelled, and if so, from where? Be precise with your description.
Does the AC get cold?
If you're experiencing rough idle when the AC is on, then check the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve and circuit, including looking for any blocked ports under the valve (you'll have to remove the IAC valve).
Also - observe the compressor with AC on to see if the compressor is cycling on/off every few seconds. If yes, then you'll need to have the system checked for proper pressures.
run fault codes
indicates a torque converter clutch servo/ solenoid or TCM provlem
It will be electronic / solenoid problems and not a transmission replacement requirement