Top 10 2001 Audi TT Questions & Answers

Mine has did this also! I put a rubber peice at the end of the left top latch hook and it applies enough pressuer to active the switch to show that the top is closed

Hi, it is the drive band for the deflector. There is a single motor behind the driver, this drive the two screws via a band. It i shard to see but when the roof is in the down position remove the trim and you can see both screws which raise the glass. The glass is seated within single metal bracket, if you feel follow the top of the screws you will find the band.

I had the same problem the glass would only raise on the drivers side then stop with acracking sound, which was the trim luckily, on inspection I found the drive band had worn away, so the motor ws only driving one side.

I hope this helps

If you are shuddering, it's the MAF or bad spark.
If you have no boost, it can be many things.
-Vacuum Leak
-Bad MAF (ebay has them for us$90, just make sure you get the exact p/n)
-Bad wastegate controller (N75)
-Bad wastegate actuator (the actual wastegate valve, or the vacuum controlled plunger)
-Bad or stuck Blowoff/Diverter Valve

My TT just had the weirdest of "no boost problems". it would throw a code, saying the wastegate was stuck open, and i would have no boost. If I disconnect the battery and reconnect after 5 minutes, i would have full boost; and everything would work great for anywhere between 20 minutes-10 days!

It turned out to be a dirty Boost Pressure Sensor (aka Thrust sensor). It is a $130 part. I finally found the location of it on my 2001 TT Quattro (AMU), it's just below and in front of the battery between the driver's side intercooler and the intake manifold, connected to a hard black plastic intake pipe. It is held on with 2 silver-colored torx screws. It has a connector that gets plugged-in facing the passenger side of the car. Once you pull it off, you will see it has a funnel shaped tip. I took it off the car and poured isopropyl alcohol (99%) into the inlet hole on the funnel shape. I shook the alcohol around and then shook it out. I let it dry, put some silicone grease on the seal, and hooked it back up. The car has been working great so far. If it starts having problems again, i am just going to throw in the $130 new part, and hope for the best.

There are two different programmings being spoken here...
1: is the "safety interlock" it's a security measure. if you go to start the car and a Yellow key flashes... that is the interlock security system. If you don't have a key specifically programmed for that car's VIN, it won't start. This can only be done at the dealership, and yes they charge about a hundred dollars. The price is the same for 1 or 10 keys for the same car. Some earlier audi TT's don't have this feature (including some 2001's). If you want one key reprogrammed to work, you will need to have ll keys reprogrammed. This programming is put into the switchblade's half of the remote. (if you pull the key apart there are 2 pieces, one that holds the metal switchblade key, andone that has all the remote buttons) a key without buttons is commonly called a valet key, which also needs interlock programming to work.

2: The keyfob's remote buttons. Lock/Unlock, Trunk open, and Panic. These need to be programmed by the dealer as well. They charge $50-$100. The price is the same for 1 or 10 keys for the same car. This programming is put into the half of the remote with all the buttons (the keyfob). This is not a necessary feature to operate the vehicle.

Hello,
I have a 2001 Audi TT Audi TT roadster, 87,000 miles. I love the car, but like all cars, things happen.

Open your checkbook, It is the command module , under your back glass, where the top goes , you will see a small door cut into the felt. Mine got wet and started a whole chain of events.

Seal that Window Good. 800$ repair to replace the comman module.

1. Windows were going up and down 1/4" all random times.
2. The Gas Release and Trunk Release buttons stop working
3. Alarm would go off at odd times.
4. Trunk would not open automatically.

To open the Trunk, behind the passenger seat is a small box, open it with you key and you will see the manual trunk release

To open your gas cap, on the passenger side of the trunk, you will see a small felt opening under the gas cap. Open it and pull back decently hard and the gas cap will open.

Good Luck.

Had a similar problem audi come into my shop.  No headlights, blower motor would not work, wipers would not work.  After dinking around found ignition switch wires had burn't up.  Remove top steering column by taking out two very small philips screws from under column.  Look at top LH side of column w/ top cover removed.  Probably will find wires burnt up.  

Hi, yes there is. To release the trunk - look on the centre console, just rearward of the front seats and you will notice a separate rectangular section in the plastic, if you lift this out you will find a cable release for the trunk underneath. To open the fuel filler cap manually, look inside the car just behind the rear light on the same side as the fuel filler and you will notice a flap in the interior trim, which is to allow access to the rear lamp. Open this and then looking towards the top you should see a loop of orange plastic - pull this towards the rear of the car to release the fuel filler.
Hope that helps Matt..

Yep, it is possible to get turbo off without pulling engine. I had a TB break at 85000 miles and did the repair at home (2 bent exhaust valves, 1 intake valve). Getting the turbo disconnected from the exhaust manifold was the single toughest part of this repair. It is attached with 3 reduced head socket bolts (appear to made from stainless steel). Eventually had to drive out one of the bolts...

One is located end of dash driver side,open door clip of panel
Other below steering column

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