20 Most Recent 2005 Pontiac Grand Prix - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Could be CV Shaft or Hub Bearing as well. Jack up the front of the car, support with Jack Stands and check for play in wheels/hubs/bearings/linkage by grabbing wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock positions for tie rod ends and steering linkage, then 12 and 6 o'clock positions for bearings. You should barely be able to feel play. If you think it is more than acceptable climb under the car while someone else performs the tasks above. Turn wheels for excessive brake noise or out of tolerance discs. Out of tolerance discs will cause premature brake wear and cause pads to move around in the caliper sometimes before starting to grind. Finally, and what I think you're hearing/feeling is the CV Shaft. Grab shaft, move around feeling for excessive play in joint or splines on each end. Turn steering all the way lock to lock and turn wheels at each lock, forward and backward, feel/listen for clicking/popping. Most of the time you can quickly easily diagnose bad CV Joints in a parking lot by slowly, safely driving in a circle forwards and backwards making the joint noise more pronounced. If it is a CV Joint, my advice would be to spend the extra few bucks and replace the whole shaft while you're there. Its quicker and easier requiring less specialty tools to complete the job.

get the charging system checked .. autozone for free

try to disconnect the battery entirely with the key in the run position.. then shut it all off and reconnect..reset the computer by turning to run only until all the dash indicators go out.. then try to start..

Check if cable from cabin is free. Easy way is to locate and disconnect cable from under car. Once done you can release brakes if the cable is the cause if not best to take to specialist. In emergency to use car tap calipers with hammer may help. Always take care when working under jacked up car

is there any check engine light on?? well about GMC and chevrolet i can say that if there is any problem with the engine/the engine light is ON then the vehicle wont start, just an idea that may be there is the same reason with your car.

Engine type? If its a Quad 4, you have to remove the upper alum finned cover, I think the retainers are 13mm

You need to remove the pulley to get at the bolts behind it. Borrow the tool from Autozone and ask how it works as it is a bit tricky to use.

Nothing. The rotor is held on by being sandwiched between the wheel and the hub. You slide it (the brake rotor) over the studs and mount the caliper over the rotor. Then fasten the caliper to its attach points. When you mount the tire/wheel and tighten the lugnuts this prevents the rotor from coming off. Get yourself to the local library, and checkout the automotive repair manual for your make and model of car. Run through the steps for removing/replacing the brake rotor. Verify you did all the steps correctly!! Good luck.

this should tighten when the wheel lug nuts are tightened-Denny

If you are losing coolant, the heater core is leaking. It may be difficult to tell if losing coolant-it is probably a very small leak. But if the oily film is antifreeze, it's the heater core.