2006 Nissan Altima - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Treat it like a diesel. Turn the key round to auxiliary, leave for a few seconds for the fuel pump to initialise and then turn it the rest to start.

You most likely have bad compression in engine. Notorious for bad catalytic converters. Scores piston walls and fits your description. Gut out cats fill with engine restore. and start looking for a engine.

Inside the transmission.

1200 no more if your in top gear

it is located in the back of the engine in a hard to reach place if you go on youtube it will show you exactly where it is i just had mines changed and cost me 350 hope this helps

in the black box under the hood. the lid had the fuse and relay location on its underside. or look in the owners manual.

It is usually attached to the engine. Shouldn't be too hard to find, it should have a belt running the front clutch and a couple of lines running to it.

Your neutral safety switch is bad.Here's a link Repair Guides Automatic Transaxle 2001 Dtc P0705 Park neutral Position...

code p2101 refers to throttle actuator control(TAC) motor---range/performance problem===causes wiring --TAC motor. having working around the motor it is possible that you have pulled apart a wire connection or damaged a wire so check that area out for a fault.

Have a repair shop or dealer (if you wish to throw away extra money for no reason),diagnose the code You can Google the code,I won't explain it to you for several reasons Type: Nissan OBD PO2101 & then high lite your year & read up I have seen too many throttle bodies replaced based on codes, when it wasn't the problem So proper diagnostic work is required You can have a: No Crank or a No Start --- Witch is it? That code will not stop the starter from turning the motor over (Cranking) It should not stop the car from (Starting) Unless the ecu does not see any throttle position or throttle plate angle data Still should start,just not be able to use it very well After all that ----------you know how to fix it----------- You have used local shops & dealers your whole life to work on your vehicles,so look at a site like this as a place to ask for a guess of the unknown We have no vehicle to test End of story There are dozens of reasons for any SYMPTOM NOT what is the fix,that is the easy part Finding A Problem That is the real issue ALWAYS

answered

Code is normaly found in the service manual of the car on a card in the book itbis 6 or 7 codes in honda 4 or5 in your car it is the preset buttons on front of radio you might have to contact dealership an prove you arevthe owner of car to get codes usually when you changevthe cars battery it trips the sni theft feature of the radio makeing it useless If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_c7b5aba9012a13b2

that would probably be the cv axle joint ..... would be my 1st . wheel bearing / hub assembly would be my 2nd...

The most likely reason is when the new cat was installed, the mechanic did not reinstall the stock heat shield that protects the floor from the excessive heat of the catalytic converter. the heat shield either mounts to the floor underneath the car, about the converter, or mounts directly to the converter. Another possibility is that the heat shield was integral to the converter, and the converter that your mechanic installed was a cheap version that did not come with the required heat shield. Either way, I would suggest you try to get the problem resolved, as excessive heat from the converter could cause a whole host of issues.

Drivers side of motor follow upper radiator hose to water outlet twobolts also should have two sensors on housing as well for the iinstrument guge an for cooling fan sensors If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_c7b5aba9012a13b2

Yes, If you gently scrape the grid in the location that it is cut, you will see that it is copper, " or they were at one time". You can use a razor to very gently lift a 1/8 " piece on each side of the cut. You can then use a piece of copper, like that of ribbon cable use in most electronic applications today, to bridge the cut. Be careful soldiering this and I suggest using a pair of tweezers with a plastic grip on them to hold the bridge copper. It will not be as flat but it will work.

Check the security light. Is it flashing after the ignition has been turned to the on position? If the security light goes out, then the immobilizer system is not the problem.

If you are using more gas than usual I would be checking the air mass sensor on the hose between the air cleaner and your throttle body. From what you describe being hard to start and running erratically . Sometimes they can be cleaned with an air mass sensor solvent. Be careful not to try cleaning or touching the sensor with anything other than the spray. If on visual inspection the bimetallic sensor has not cleared it will need replacing.

A P0546 OBDII code indicates "High Exhaust Gas Temperature" See more here: P0546 Exhaust Gas Temperature EGT Sensor Circuit High B1S1

many companies will email this to you, if you show that you are the legal owner...otherwise a GOOD radio repair shop , other then the EXPENSIVE prices dealers charge..