20 Most Recent 2004 Nissan Maxima - Page 8 Questions & Answers

front or back or side support ?

Hi Dustin,here's a guide that may help you. Repair Guides Engine Mechanical Components Engine AutoZone com

OBD Codes have nothing to do with changing parts Codes are to be used to diagnose that system, component test, to find a problem Why would you replace any vehicle part, unless you tested it or knew it failed? Take it to the dealer to be properly diagnosed

Basically first check battery voltage under load with headlights, fan etc on and give about 2500 rpm and check battery voltage with digital meter and expect to see about 12 volt range if Alternator faulty. If ok would be 14 volts approx. Assuming battery voltage low. First remove negative battery terminal and proceed to take of drive belt by taking strain of belt by slackening tensioner on belt then remove and check belt for cracks etc on inside once removed. if damaged replace. Proceed and remove cowls, bolts etc as required to remove alternator. Before removing disconnect wires on Alternator. Assemble in reverse to above. Just a basic outline of how to do it.

Here's a link on removing your cam sensor. Replacing Camshaft position sensor Nissan Maxima 2004

Needs carbon flush. You should take it to a place that knows how to relearn the idle as this year & model can be tricky. I have found that unpluging air flow meter then starting eng., repluging airflow,then clearing the code will set idle back to factory settings.

Sounds like a charging system problem. The engine runs off of the alternator but if it is not charging the battery properly the battery will be drained until I engine will no longer run. You need to get the vehicle to a repair shop to have the battery and charging system check for defects

this is an indication of a dusted engine from a badly fitted air cleaner/ hose assembly. It indicates that the oil rings are worn out or have lost their tension and no longer control the oil on the cylinder bores. IF you have had an over hart situation in the life of the motor then the tension on all the rings will be lost or there is a cracked ring that has scored the bore. Have a compression test done by an accredited engine specialist to find which is the case.

Purchase spring compressors otherwise you will injury yourselfe.

keyon , no light , it bad lamp. or bad wire to sensor. do you want to guess or test?

Oil change or take it to AutoZone or o,riley and they will chec for free

Without having a wireing diagram in front of me, I am at a disadvantage. I have never done one. I always fix the problem correctly. The antitheft systems are often quite complex and you have to be quite creative to get around them, so I really don't know what to tell you because there may be other problems created by going around the system, like damaging the ECM. Without doing some serious research which I haven't the time to do at this point in time, I really can't help you.

If the problem is overheating on the highway, your prrboem is the radiator. Your engine produces more heat as it works under a load. sitting at an idle, it doesn't have to work. It's my opinion that the center rows of the radiator core are stopped up or severely restricted. With it using a plastic and aluminum radiator, I would only go with a new one. Out on the highway, it doesn't need the fans to cool the engine off, the movement of the car forces enough air through the radiator to keep the engine cool. Either that, or check for a badly restricted a/c condensor which will inhibit the air flow to the radiator. My choice would be the radiator.Without seeing it I can only give you my best guess. I work with a lot of Nissan's

No need

now i wish i knew more about your problem but i will try help you the best i can ok now am assuming the car is not running so what i would do is check for spark if i have spark then i will check my fuses and fuel pump relay if they are all good,then get a wire and put power to the pump if it run check the alarm system in your car,and you should have your car scan because your crank sensor could also cost that i will try keep close to find out if you get started ok

Your catalytic converter is exactly what it says it is. It converts undesirable exhaust gases into acceptable ones by using a catalyst to combine the unburnt hydrocarbons with a second element. It uses the heat of your exhaust to do this. However, as the process goes on, the converter absorbs more and more impurities but expels nothing except what is left in your exhaust. This means your catalytic converter finally fills up. After 10 years, it sounds like your converter has reached the end of its life and is full. Hence exhaust gases are having trouble passing through it. It is now being overheated by the exhaust gas that cant flow freely. This is also creating back pressure in your exhaust manifold thus interfering with your engine's performance. You have to replace the catalytic converter. Probable cost about $400 to $500.

What temperature have you set the inside temperature to be?? Must be warmer than the outside temperature. Could be a blocked heater hose ... can not help where to look or find.

Google the question,that's all that is needed to find it You can go to You Tube Video & maybe watch something about that sensor being tested or replace & why