20 Most Recent 1998 Nissan Frontier - Page 2 Questions & Answers

DON'T REPLACE YOUR BREAK LIGHT SWITCH YET...

the 98 frontier break arm (what the pedal is attached to) has a MANUFACTURED "hole" through it that will allow the plunger of the break light switch to pass right thru. There is supposed to be a rubber "button" snapped into this hole, however, over time, dry rot and age will cause it to fall out. When this "snap in" button falls out, your break lights will stay on till the battery dies. This is another shining example of DTF engineering. (design to fail) Most cars now are filled with these little parts and they're purpose is to generate revenue.

Your break switch probably works.
1. look in the floor board for the button that fell out, it's about the same size as a button off your shirt.
2 Slide your hand up the break pedal arm till you find the "hole" I'm referring to. (you'll know it when you feel it)
3 Tape the damn button back into the hole with electrical tape, or tape a shirt button over the hole. that will work for a little while.
** remember ** if you are driving with break lights in this condition (on all the time)...no one knows when you're really stopping!!!

you can get a snap in rubber grommet to replace it at most hardware stores (I don't even want to know what Nissan would charge for this little part.)

**note** replacing it is easy if you start the truck first (power breaks) and have someone hold the pedal while you work on it!

Clean the cog,s and they will have mark,s on them, put the motor on T.D.C. bottom crank pulley will have a mark that lines up with the cover. Google should have a video showing every thing you have to do.

if not fuses they are two different systems dash lights have a switch cruise control could be the cruze switch itself or a electronic cruze system or vacuum faulty units can be replaced

Near the gas tank.

Check pin 16 for voltage at obd2 connector. Should be hot all the time, probably a fused circuit. Sometimes it's the cigar fuse that powers that circuit, I'll have to check.

Your dashboard circuit is probably burnt out. The same thing happened to me, it's like a $20 part but is about $60 with installation, check with a dealer though.

it's your cluster

autodata identifies all nissan 2.4 liter engines as interference fit there are special requirements when fitting the belt so a workshop manual would be a big advantage to do the job right replace all idler pulleys as the nearings will be at service life as well if there is indication of oil stains in the covers , replace both cam shaft and crank shaft seals as oil is the major destroyer of cam belts

With a volt meter and the engine at idle, check the voltage at the battery.It should always be just over 12 up to 14 volts. At idle with no accessorys on (lights, fan, radio ect.) The voltage should stay just over 12 volts. As you turn on all the accessorys the voltage should rise up to between 12-14 volts.
Also, a new battery needs to be fully charge before use. Most new batterys sit on the shelf and lose charge. My last new battery needed 8 hours of chargeing to be fully charged.
I hope this helps.

Here's a link on replacing your alternator. SAVE 20 ON ONLINE SHIP TO HOME ORDERS OF 100 OR MORE

use the remote or lock and unlock the drivers door with the key

Is the cooling system full ?

If you have dual brake reservoirs check that each one is filled to the top so that braking is effective both front and aft. If your brake system has a proportioning valve that directs braking effort between the front and back brakes, that is also an area of concern if it is faulty it can cause your symptoms. Because of weight transfer when de accelerating, about 85 to 90 % of stopping power is generated by the front brakes and that is why they wear out much faster than the rear. You currently have a very dangerous situation with virtually no braking, and this is an issue that needs immediate attention.

No it won't. Clean the throttle body and idle air control motor. Use brake clean and a tooth brush. Clean inside the best you can, start it( it will take a second or two to start) then spray brake clean into the throttle as you rev it up.

Check the connection. If your battery is new and fully charged connecting it up should give power to the lights at least. If it does not there must be something wrong with the connections to it. If they are fine and the battery is correctly connected there must be something wrong further along, say in the wiring Good Luck

get somebody to give you a jump start with booster cables, did you leave a light on? Has the weather been very cold where you are, cold can kill a weak battery. Check that the alternator cable is intact before attempting to start. Sounds like a dead battery, should not cost much if that is all the problem is Good Luck

Remove the speedo feed wires on the sensor on the output drive haft and with with vehicle up on stands run angine and check the voltage ,if the voltage will not change with speed the renew it not expensive if the voltage is varable over the speed range then remove the dash unit its all in one and get it repaired around the 200euro mark for a repair

Common problem with these units. We have been repairing them successfully for over 10 years. Visit http://www.mrwhizard.com for more info.

White or light gray smoke could be an indication the head gasket is leaking or even blown. The motor will also run hot and you lose cooling fluid. I would not use the car for any other ride then straight to the repair shop.