1993 Ford Escort 4 Door - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Question edited for clarity and change 'want start' to 'won't start'. Question moved to model category. Does it have the original battery, and does the battery have at least 12.3 volts? https://www.google.com/search?q=1993+Ford+Escort+MK5+1.4+won%27t+start ..

4.5 quarts wth a filter. check at 4

I would start by checking your ground for the wiper more then check all your plugs for the wipers there is one at the wiper motor and one at the switch normally if the wiper switch is part of your turn signal switch the plug will be under the cash at the base of the steering column make sure all those are right and free from corrosion and if that does not fix the problem I would check the wiper realy

Sounds like a possible bad Solenoid, for the Starter. Maybe, bad Ignition Switch. No idea, without the Wiring Diagram. Do you own the Repair Manual? If not get one. Check for Power at Glow Plugs, when Engine is shut off. You will need a Test Light and DVOM.

it sounds like the gearbox, probably a collapsed bearing

Bad sensor

could be a weak startmotor, the bushes wear out over time and it will need replacing. if its turning over slowly it could be this, other is the battery has last its amprig as the starter motor does need a lot of amps. and other is the connection from the battery to the starter there is not good contact.

you are to replace thermostat

You mention plugs and wires, did you change the distributor cap and rotor button? Check for broken, split, loose vacuum lines.

Why do you want to remove it is damaged? If so a angle grinder is a good way to cut the weld . you will have to tack weld the new bolt to stop it turning while tightening the nut.

Hi Paula: Assuming that it has failed and is being replaced, there's no need to be overly gentle. Remove the fluid delivery tube by undoing the connector. Remove the bolt(s) that secure the cylinder. It should now be able to be removed with a couple of delicate taps from a ball pein hammer, or some gentle prying with a screw driver. Cheers,

When was it last serviced?

maybe a short.

test the new battery.put a jumper lead between the batterys earth and the engine ,something solid steel..That will test for broken earth leads.Then check the main fusible link

Probably R134a. This may help depending on which country you are located in Automotive air conditioning and R12 updates R134a and more

You need to hook up a scan tool. Most auto part stores will do this for free.

there is an electrical short somewhere causing a bad signal to transmission while headlight on.i have a similar problem with my ford truck except when on turn headlamps on it cuts the power to the fuel pump and ignition lol sadly im still looking for where my bad wire is located.if you find your bad wire you will solve your problem if not its best to go to a dealer or certified mechanic .downside is we all know dealers and mechanics are expensive hopefully you can find your bad wire on your own good luck

yes it will. to verify the engine size that will work ask the wrecking yard.

Could be if it is a tooth off, the ECM won't be able to fully compensate for the timing differential.

the plug in the back of the alt voltage reg plug that is melt some times up plug it and check the plug it self may help you out and all so i remember the plug in the the back of the key ign, gets bernt up and melts also check them and see you may find one of the 2 help you out