This warning light (TRAC OFF) sporadically comes on and stays on for no apparent reason. The car (2001 Chevy Cavalier, just over 16,000 miles, auto trans, 2200 SFI 4 cyl. engine) runs and drives fine and is regularly serviced. Had a local service facility look at this once and was told all they did was disconnect the battery for a period to allow the "system to reset itself." Consequently, I've done this a few times myself. The light went off, stayed off, but, as mentioned, sporadically comes back on. I've searched the internet for an answer and could not find one.
Any ideas or a solution???????????????????????
Posted by jamesterlo... on
Sometimes it's a complaint with the ABS braking system. If it comes on and you have no other problems and stays on for while, check your brakes. I have had this issue before and had my brakes replaced. They were worn but for some reason were not squeaking.
Posted on Nov 15, 2008
1999 chevy cavalier keeps overheating, changed the thermostat, radiator and hoses are ok what else could it be the waterpump isnt leaking.
Posted by jolrainbow... on
these cars are notorious for that.It needs to be "burped" when your car is cold then open the resivoir(coolant).Start the car .As it warms you will notice the tank level will rise.Do not let it boil over!! when it starts to get warm then turn the car off and watch for bubbles in the resivior.add more coolant as the bubbles come out .repeat until no more bubbles come up.The problem with these cars is that an air pocket forms in the water pump.
Posted on May 11, 2009
My 2001 Cavalier has lost the rear brake lights and turn signals and hazards. The center brake light still works. I have checked the bulbs and all the fuses in the fuse compartment everything checks good. The front turn signals work, the back up lights work which is part of the same bulb so I assume my ground is good. coincindently my odometer display light quit at the same time, all the gauges work and the dash lights all work. Any ideas on where to look next?
Posted by dekoch on
The problem is the turn signal/headlight/hazard switch assembly on the steering column which the brake light wiring runs through. The part is easy to change and cost about $50 at most parts stores
Posted on Sep 05, 2008
how do i replace fuel pump on a 2001 chevy cavalier?
Posted by sjbyroad on
First, if your car still runs, pull the fuel pump relay, and start your car, letting it run until it dies. This will depressurize the fuel system. Then you must support the fuel tank, and take loose the straps that hold it up. Slowly lower the tank until you can unhook the tank filler hose and overflow hose by taking the clamps off and sliding the hoses off. lower it some more, and unhook the fuel lines; they require you to insert a special tool around the edge of the connection, however this can be improvised with screwdrivers or a piece of plastic or metal bent into a C shape. Next unhook the wire connection. Once you get it down, it's easiest to empty as much fuel as you can; as this will help you get it back into place. The fuel pump is inside the tank, which locks into place with a 1/8th turn. You will need a hammer and a brass punch for this job, as it needs to be tapped around to unlock. It will then lift out. Compare the two pump assemblies. The inside parts can be slightly different, but ensure that the fuel lines are IDENTICAL and the wire connection is IDENTICAL. The new one will come with a new silicone seal. Ensure that you don't put the new one in in such a way as the float doesn't bind, otherwise you'll be doing this procedure again if you don't like guessing how much gas you have. This can be a challenge to wrestle with putting the new one in, as you have to push it down to compress the new seal, and turn it to lock it. Once you get it started, you can let up and use the hammer and punch again to tighten it the rest of the way. Next, put it back together just as you took it apart, and don't forget to hook up the wires, hoses, and fuel lines. No tools required for the fuel lines, they just snap together. Once everything's tight and hooked up, put gas back in it, and if you haven't already, put the fuel pump relay back in. This you can do as soon as the car dies, and is completely optional if the car won't run at all. You are now ready to start it up, but turn the ignition on to the run position, wait a few seconds for the pump to pressurize, and then start it. Have fun, and feel free to ask any questions should you have any.
Posted on Feb 22, 2010
have 2001 chevy cavalier, 2200 engine, need to replace oil pan. Do you have to remove engine??
Posted by nnjguy5155... on
Cavalier, Sunfire 2001-2005
Oil Pan - Removal & Installation
2.2L (VIN 4) Engine
Negative battery cable Right front wheel Right inner fender splash shield Starter motor and bracket Engine mount strut bracket Oil pan
Fig. Exploded view of the oil pan mounting and related components-2.2L (VIN 4) engine
Oil pan with a new gasket. Torque the nuts and bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm). Engine mount strut bracket. Torque the bolts to 49 ft. lbs. (66 Nm). Starter motor and bracket. Torque the bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm). Right fender splash shield Right front wheel. Torque the nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (140 Nm). Negative battery cable
Engine mount strut bracket Drive belt Lower then upper AC compressor bolts Oil pan bolts Oil pan
Fig. Remove/Install the oil pan bolts in this sequence-2.2L (VIN F) engine
Oil pan and tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) AC compressor bolts Engine mount bracket Drive belt
Negative battery cable Flywheel/converter cover Right wheel Right wheel well splash shield Accessory drive belt Air conditioning compressor lower bolts Transmission-to-engine brace Engine mount strut bracket Radiator outlet pipe bolts Radiator outlet pipe from the oil pan Oil pan to the flywheel cover bolt and nut Flywheel cover stud for clearance Radiator outlet pipe from the lower radiator hose and oil pan Oil level sensor connector Oil pan
Oil pan with the gasket. Torque the M8 bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm) and the M6 bolts to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
Fig. Oil pan fastener torque specifications-2.4L engine
Oil pan to the transmission nut Oil level sensor connector Radiator outlet pipe to the lower radiator hose and oil pan Exhaust manifold brace Radiator outlet pipe. Torque the bolts to 124 inch lbs. (14 Nm). Engine mount strut bracket. Torque the bolts to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm). Transmission to the engine brace Air conditioning compressor lower bolts. Torque the bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm). Accessory drive belt Right splash shield Right front wheel Flywheel/converter cover Negative battery cable
Hope helped (remember rated this help). Good luck.
Posted on Oct 22, 2009
My Battery is brand new and is fine, my connections are not corroded, and I checked my alternator by jump starting it and disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery and the car kept running. I can jump my car and leave it running for about an hour and then when I go to start it the next day it will start, but if I miss starting it just one day it will not start the next day. When it won't start my battery is dead because none of my lights will work or anything else. I don't know whats wrong.
Posted by clm33sta on
First, DON"T check your alternator that way anymore. It's not good to do on newer systems! The best, quickest check I can tell you is to put a volt meter across the battery. Running with accessories off you should see voltage of about 13.5 to 14.5.
With all accessories and headlamps on high turned on, it should not drop below 12.5. (and that is the absolute low end!).
It sounds like something in the car is staying on. check the glovebox light and interior light delay and make sure they are OK. Otherwise, you will have to start checking entire system for a draw that's taking out the battery overnight. To check, you can pull one fuse at a time and see if draw goes away, then check system that fuse serves.
Posted on Jan 07, 2009
2001 Cavalier Z24 Where is the BCM (body control module) located?
Posted by 1boatdocto... on
Below the instrument panel on the left side henge pillar,or up high behind the Instrument panel depending the model and options!
Posted on Mar 09, 2010
All wheel bearings are good. I removed both front abs sensors, cleaned them and checked resistance = 1600 for both. I see no bad wires. The rear sensors measure = 1300 and 1000. Again the wires all look good. All the brakes are new and function properly. The fuses are all good and the brake fluid level is good. I have not checked fusable links. All lights are still on. I tried removing the +battery terminal for 15min then reconnected. All lights came on after 5 min running in Idle. I don;t know what else to do can you advise? My email is Rhedrick@rochester.rr.com
Posted by Rhedrick on
I have the same ABS problem... I just had new brakes and front wheel bearings done. A couple weeks later the Service light, ABS, light and Trck off light came on. While driving on the highway it sounded like the breaks were scraping or something to that effect. In any event, there was a rather loud intermittant vibration. Is this a serious mechanical problem caused by the ABS failure?? Appreciate any help!
Posted on Mar 09, 2010
How do I change the water pump in a 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier with a 2.4 L engine? I need help. Please. If anyone knows, can you please let me know all the steps. Thanks
Posted by ICamacho85 on
Stick with me on this
1.Put the car on jack stands
2.Remove the exhuast manifold, Do not rotate the flex cuopling more then 4 degrees od damage will occur.
3.Diconnect the coolant inlet pipe from the water pump outlet hose, Disconnect from the engine, disconnect it from the thermostate housing and remove it.
4.lower the car back down of the jack stands.
5.Detach the brack booster hose.
6.Remove the timing chain cover and the tensioner.
7.Remove the heater outletpiper from the water pump.
8.Remove the water pump cover bolts.
9.Remove the water pump retianer nuts.
Remove the old gasket and clean.
10.On bench. Install the waterpump and cover but lreave the bolts finger tight.
11.Install back in car, leave water pump bolts looseto allow for positioning.
12.Install water pump cover to engine, tighten by hand.
13.Lubricate oringand install metal outlet pipe back into pump, hand tighten.
14a.Tighten the water pump to timing chain nuts
14b.Tighten the water pump cover to water pump housing bolts.
14c.Tighten water pump cover to engine block bolts.
14d.Tighten the radiator outlet pipe to water pump.
15.Install timing chain tensioner.
16.Install exhuast manifold.
17.Install exhuast pipe.
18. Fill it up and bleed the system.
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
I have had terrible brake problems since I bought the 2001 chevy cavalier, had brakes replaced 4 times...last yr replaced rotor and pads for $500 bucks...now my ABS light is on with the repair wrench service symbol, also my "Trac off" light is on...the brakes pulsate, stick and also slide when I put the brakes on, very hard to describe (not just when it's raining...scary
Any advice is greatly appreciated on how to deal with this...I also had the ABS lights reset and they went back on....the problem is getting worse. I don't want to pay a lot to fix this but want to be safe driving.
Posted by hartlynes on
You don't say what brakes.
I have had many cavys and worked on them. Great cars.
Your problem sounds like a **** rear wheel cylinder and bad drums/rotors and abs sensor wire.
My car just did everything you describe, I put in new wheel cylinders, drums, brakes, rotors, and 2 new rear brake lines. For less than 200 bucks the car is like new again and has well over 100k.
You can do it yourself. Doesn't take special tools. I followed online how-to's.
Posted on Jun 03, 2009
1,905 questions posted
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: