20 Most Recent 2003 Nissan Xterra - Page 7 Questions & Answers

theres a special tool for taking these filters off , it looks like a bycycle chain with an handle, when u replace it ,just screw the new one on hand tight ok, and that will be fine,

When was the last time the transmission was serviced? It should be serviced every 40,000 miles or so. I would think you should service it and make sure dirt & grime are not causing the shift solenoid or the valve in the valve body to stick

Hooked up the battery backwards, did we? It is hard to say which type you have. The service information does not tell you HOW to remove the fuse, it only tells you to remove it. Some of main battery fuses BOLT in and some of them use a "cartridge" type fusable link. If it is the bolt-in type, you may have to remove your power distribution box and remove nuts or bolts from the bottom side. If it is the cartridge type, there are usually latches on the sides of the fuse cartridge that you must hold back with a screwdriver or pick, while at the same time, pulling and wiggling the fuse cartridge to get it out. I have been known to use a large pair of pliers for this task.Just looking at the fuse block diagram for your vehicle, it looks like your Exterra is equipped with the cartridge type fuse, but I would have to see it in person to be sure. This is not something that gets replaced every day.

Clicking and not turning over is caused by weak battery, loose or dirty battery cable clamps or loose connections to starter.

try taking it out, and then put it back in.

The location is in back of the engine on the top of the transmission

Line up mark on main pulley with indicator, If you have a baffle over the rockers on cylinder number one, you will need to pull off that valve cover to ensure that neither valve is open- the vavle train will be resting on the heel of the cam lobes. This means cylinder number one is truly at top dead center, and distributor can be installed with the rotor in the correct location for factory designated cylinder number 1 location. ( it could fall anywhere, as long as the firing order is in the correct order- it just makes life simpler in the future.)If one rocker or both rockers are pressing against the valve stems or followers, the engine is 180 degrees from top dead center for cylinder number one so the crankshaft must make one full revolution additional for number one to be at the timing reference top dead center for cylinder number 1 or you can simply position the distributor rotor for cylinder number 2.. This is because the crankshaft makes two full rotations for one full rotation of camshaft or distributor. If you find you have lined up on cylinder number 2- which is 180 degrees away from cylinder number 1 in the firing order, you should have no problem if you make sure to locate number 1 in the factory designated location and use correct rotation direction when you pug the wires into the distributer cap.

Hello, I usually stick to Ford brands, but if you were on the Roadside, I would pull over to see what was wrong. First, I would try a small amount of starting fluid to see if there was spark. The engine would either hit or run until the starting fluid was used up.If the engine did nothing, that would lead me to believe it is a spark issue. Not being familiar with your brand, I would look in the Owners' Manual for mention of an Ignition Relay, PCM Relay or Anti-theft device. I would also read up on any Impact or Collision sensor that may disable the engine. Ford brands interrupt the fuel flow but your Brand may kill the engine.Try a different Ignition key in case the computer chip broke in your key. Disconnect the Negative Battery cable and hope the brain resets to get you home.If you can get to Autozone, Oreilys, or Advance, they can scan your vehicle and perhaps pick up the cause of your problem if you did not disconnect the Battery. You may have to call for a Tow truck(USUALLY A FORD BRAND) and get towed to a repair shop.