20 Most Recent 1996 Nissan Maxima - Page 8 Questions & Answers

If noise comes from transmission in D range -no drive.Then i thing of AT internal problem. If in D during driving then you have to check drivetrain,like axles or bearings. or AT.

Most likley problem is your brake light switch. go underneath the dash to the brake pedal and depending on wether you have cruise control or not ther will be one or two sensors there. the black sensor should be the brake light switch. disconnect and jump the connector with a paper clip and see if the brake lights comeon and the shifter will move.

Check your pcv valve located on valve cover towards firewall. Pull it out and disconnect and shake it, if u don't hear the valve moving around change it.

you have electric power drain,either it is you battery very old and one of the shells inside the battery is short. Check also your boot light might stays on even you closing it down.

REMOVE FAN CRANK PULLEY ETC REMOVE SEAL FIT NEW

Here's a link to your starter.Just follow,positive cable,goes to starter.

First thing check power - check your fuse and verify it is not burned.

Possible issues may be:A bad connection with the control mod.A broken or leaking vacuum hose leading to the cruise mod.A blown fuseThose are the most common issues regarding cruise control

you need someone to read the falt code that the check engine light is responding to,try a local auto parts store.Most will read the code for free.The code should correspond with the exact problem,good luck,Gary

Your theory has some merit, but when this problem occurs, you should also see a "battery" warning light on your dash or a drop on your Volts gage (if our car is so-equipped). Another possible cause is something in the ignition/spark or fuel system. A cracked or ill-fitting distributor cap, an old, worn or cracked spark plug wire, or even a poor connection on your fuel pump could cause similar symptoms. When this happens, does your Check Engine light come on? If so, read the code stored in your onboard computer and look at the system that causes the code to set.

I think your ignition switch has quit working, or it has stopped getting power. If you pull the connector apart to the ignition switch and check if there is one wire on the harness side of the connector that has power, it sure looks like a bad ignition switch. One fat wire, about 12 gauge size, going into the switch should be hot at all times. If you have it, pretty obvious that power is not going out of the switch. key on should send power out of the switch to the fuses for the windows and other accessories, and also send power to the dash for the warning lights and gauges. Power to the switch will be either from one of your fusible links near the battery or from a maxi fuse in the fuse/relay block under the hood. The funny action of the key kind of points to the ignition switch, though. Still, check for power into the switch first.

Oh no,broken timing belt.It is an interference engine.

if they click you may have bad motors, or no ground to the harness.while holding the switch on ,test light connected, try grounding the other terminal

inside the door panel ,the motor bolts to it,to push the window up or down

you may have a busted wireprobe along the wire till you dont have power