20 Most Recent 1996 Nissan Maxima - Page 6 Questions & Answers

noo

they may get it from the vin or chase number

Take to AutoZone they have a machine that they hook up and cam tell u everything starter batt, alternator all that good stuff

Ok as far as I know when check engine lights were installed on cars and trucks' in the US and over seas. They were ran directly from the computer system and were only shut off by the dealership! After some $$$ and repairs! Once again if you plan on keeping this car! Go to your local parts store and purchase a manual! Not only will it teach you how to reset the check engine light, But I have found that there is no better way, To fix any problems that may accrue later on! WARNING some manuals can be hard to find your way around! So here is another way. Disconnect your battery's negative cable for 10 seconds or so, and this will reset the light due the fact that the light is directly wired into the harness and the PCM(power control module). You can also check the light by unplugging any sensor you can find if the light does not come on, there it is, you have answered your own question! All cars seem to be some what different ! And remember this is my opinion and I could be wrong! Good Luck Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeff_24365d731679262d

That's a real tough one. How many have you had? Are you getting the new ones from the same source? It may be a bad batch if you are. Other possible cause is misalignment of the belt pulleys or over-tightening of belts. Is it being fitted correctly by mechanic? By that I mean he's not stressing the rubber by holding outside of pulley with large pipe wrench while tightening centre nut. I know this is not a solution and I'm sorry about that but it is a guide to possible causes and apart from the above causes I really don't know. Unless you want to go with the poltergeist/alien theories ha ha.

First of all change all the spark plugs, fuel filter, & Wires if there really old or U have nit changed them. Once installed if this doesn't solve your miss fire then have the engine check light checked for free from Auto Zone if the check engine light is on light is on. Have it checked anyways bc it could be stored in the computer memory even though the light does not show it is lite.

Does this only happen in reverse or also in first gear? My first suspicion would be the engine idle control valve or throttle body. These can become coked over time and may require replacement or cleaning.

All water pumps can

As of 1996,all cars sold in the US were required to have an OBD-II computer interface port.
You may want to go to Advance Auto Parts, AutoZone, or Pep Boys, and get a free read
of the code(s) that you computer may be posting to help with your diagnosis.

The code coming from your vehicle's computer may be one or more of:

P0130 02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank I Sensor 1)
P0131 02 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank I Sensor I)
P0132 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank I Sensor 1)
P0133 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0134 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank I Sensor 1)
P0135 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0136 02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank I Sensor 2)
P0137 02 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank I Sensor 2)
P0138 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank I Sensor 2)
P0139 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0140 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0141 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0142 02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank I Sensor 3)
P0143 02 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank I Sensor 3)
P0144 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank I Sensor 3)
P0145 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0146 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank I Sensor 3)
P0147 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank I Sensor 3)
P0150 02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor I)
P0151 02 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor I)
P0152 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0153 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0154 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0155 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0156 02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0157 02 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0158 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0159 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0160 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0161 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0162 02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0163 02 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0164 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0165 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0166 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0167 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 3)

Note: "Bank 1" is the side of the engine with cylinder 1. "Bank 2" is the other side.

P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder misfire detected
P0301 - Cylinder 1 misfire detected
P0302 - Cylinder 2 misfire detected
P0303 - Cylinder 3 misfire detected
P0304 - Cylinder 4 misfire detected
P0305 - Cylinder 5 misfire detected
P0306 - Cylinder 6 misfire detected
P0307 - Cylinder 7 misfire detected
P0308 - Cylinder 8 misfire detected
P0313 - Misfire detected with low fuel

Maximas with the VE30DE and VQ30DE engines use a distributorless ignition system that is controlled by the Engine Control Module (ECM). The ECM receives a signal from the crankshaft sensor (the CPS - Crankshaft Position Sensor), and processes the signal based on inputs
from other various engine sensors, including the Oxygen sensor.
(this is the role of the O2 sensor in ECM operation).
Then the ECM sends signals to each of the individual coils in the proper firing order.
This system is more efficient than a distributor, and has fewer moving parts. The high voltage coils are directly attached to each spark plug, allowing a higher energy spark within the cylinder. A high energy spark means a faster, more thorough burning of the air/fuel mixture, which produces more power and lower emissions.


SECONDARY SPARK TEST - works for all cars, including Maxima.


1. Remove the spark plug.

2. Install the spark plug to the ignition coil/coil pack, then attach the coil wiring.

3. Ground the plug at a good ground location on the engine.

4. Crank the engine and check for spark.

5. If spark occurs, the ignition system is functioning properly.

6. If no spark exists, test the ignition coil/coil pack, power transistor and related wiring.

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HEI Ignition Spark test - works for all cars, including Maxima.

The next level test you may want to try is a HEI (high energy ignition) spark tester kit. Cost is
about $30 at most auto parts stores. Harbor Freight Tools sells a chinese equivalent for about $16.
Place the spark tester on each of the spark plugs, and watch as the little light in the tester will
light up each time the spark plug is fired by the computer. You can actually see weak or
intermittent sparking as the motor runs - you can tell by the relative strength of the light as
you compare the intensity and duration of the light across all 6 cylinders.

If your problem were the alternator (or its built-in voltage regulator), your battery would not be
getting a proper charge, and you
wouldn't be able to start the car after a drive, since the battery would have been drained during the
drive - normally, the alternator will both charge the battery and run all electrical
features of the car during a drive.

To test your alternator, place your DMM (digital multimeter) across the battery terminals while the
car is running - it should read 13.5VDC to 14.5VDC. With the car off, you can test your battery
voltage with the same DMM - it should read 12.65 VDC (for a fully charged battery).

Alternatively, you can take your car to Advance Auto Parts, AutoZone, or Pep Boys, and they'll
attach their "charging system tester" to your car and give your car a nice test for free.
I do this with my customers' cars just to get that nifty printout of the problem. Its nice
to show a vehicle owner somethng in black & white when I'm recommending a new charging
or ignition system component (some of which can be a bit pricey).

Ok well Lord knows I have lost a few keys! Let the horn blow away! Just kidding locate the horn should be in the front grill or fender well. And unplug it for the trip to the Nisson Dealership they should have a master key and will order you a new key if not in stock. And don't forget to plug it back in when you get the new key. Hope this helps. good luck Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeff_24365d731679262d

it should be behind the plastic splash guard on the passenger side of the vehicle right next to the front wheel.

electric window dead. fails to go up and down?

1. blown fuse in the , fuse box.
2. bad switch
3. bad wires from fuse , switch and motor
4. bad motor.
5. window track jammed, and overloads said motor.

in a shop we dont guess. we use a $10 volt meter, and measure the voltage to the motor pins, ACTIVE. I got 12v yes, good i dont get 12v, the controls are not sending 12v to motor, trace that with the meter. (easy is pie) got 12v. it dont move but buzzes, tack is jammed or motor bad. if motor is silent and dont even twitch with 12v, (active) its bad. if the motor seems overloaded, then disconnect the motor drive. and see if the window does move easy, if not, bingo its jammed. ill stop here, and not go in to the long topic of how to rebuild tracks.

If your having trouble with your windows not going up or down, It might be the master controller on the drivers side. Go online to learn how to remove it from the door and check the connection to make sure they are all tight and fully connected.

Has anyone looked at the connectors to the alternator? I remember these types of stories from work, alternator after alternator, found 2 things to be the problem, one is the connector to the alternator was defective, makes a poor connection and destroys the new alternator, the other is very poor quality rebuilds from Kragen, Auto Zone and the like, use a factory rebuild, they cost more but they are just as good as a new one.

If you look under the hood and follow the hydraulic lines from the master cylinder. If they go to a module you have abs but if the lines go straight to the wheels you don't.

Disconnect battery when not in use and see if it will start if you connect it back up just before you need to use it. If it works something is draining battery.