20 Most Recent 1996 Nissan Maxima - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Check your fuses first.

Did you change the fuel filter. The fuel additive you used will not get the water out of an old fuel filter. Excessive water in the fuel could cause the misfire. The Maxima is probably due for timing belt due to age. Missing teeth on the timing belt will result in timing walk. The knock sensor is probably getting pre ignition signals. Look at the belt and get the fuel clean and go from there. (Do an OBDII Scan)

Usual method,Pull the cotter pin and use 2 open end wrenches,on top of each other to increase the contact area and pull slowly.The nut should come off. 2nd method,use a sharp air chisel and split the nut apart. 3rd method,shield the CV boot and heat the nut or cut it off flush with a torch. 4th method,freeze the nut with 134a and then remove it with the 2 wrenches. 5th method,Cut across it at an angle with an air cut off tool down to the ball joint threads to release the nut pressure then remove it with one wrench. Do you need more methods?

it should be on the heater control valve up against the firewall

Considering the age of the car it would be wise to remove the fuel injectors and have them tested and have the fuel system checked for pressure and delivery volume, pressure regulator function...

It sounds like your car has an intermittent open current feed problem. Has there been any electrical/component repair or replacement recently? If so, that would be a starting point for diagnosis. Sounds like an ignition switch type problem. If you had an intermittent battery connection, the car would continue to run from the alternator output, but would not cause the warning lights to go through their initial "bulb check" sequence. But if "on" voltage is lost at the ignition switch, or that circuit, it would.

The lower ball joint is not replaceable, if the ball joint is defective the lower control arm or transverse link must be replace

to start with does turning the od button on allow it to start if it does leave it at that because it will not get to over drive unless throttle settings and road speed are right the problem with used cars is that previous owners change things and don't pass on the changes so it may have been tampered with you could always take it to an accredited auto electrician to have the circuit checked out for changes

If "tapping" the SOLENOID ever worked... you HAVE A DEFECTIVE SOLENOID. Defective is all inclusive... and when "STUFF" happens (burns up)... it is VERY LIKELY to cause COLATERAL damage... (FRIED WIRES & IGNITION SWITCH) ((fix that "STUFF" later)). At the SOLENOID ... apply "B" battery DIRECTLY to the "S" terminal of the SOLENOID... IF it does not fully spin up the starter 100% of the time the solenoid or the starter is DEFECTIVE.

I would go for throttle body.

Hi Brent is the MIL light on? if yes check the code and go from there. To me it sounds like the MAF mass air flow sensor issue. Let me know. You say the vehicle starts then shuts down correct?

You migh have an Injector leak down problem, the fuel rail goes empty and while you keep cranking the fuel rail fills up building pressure and then the engine starts, this normally happens if the vehicle is parked for more then 3-4 hours.

The intake is two pieces, upper and lower, I assume you are replaceing theknoock senors? In any event here is a link to a video on how to remove the upper intake manifold. 1995 1999 Nissan Maxima Upper intake manifold replacement

Fuel pump issues Or automatic choke adjustment. Maybe