1998 Ford Windstar - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Question edited for clarity and fix funky punctuation and lack of spaces. Question moved to model category. My first thought was that the timing belt had snapped, but you have a timing chain and it says this Does a Ford Windstar have a timing belt or chain? Best Answer. Your Ford Windstar had two engine options and they both ran a timing chain, not a timing belt. Belts need to be replaced at around 100K miles, but since you have a hardened steel timing chain, you have nothing to worry about. Your chain should last the life of the engine without being serviced. May 28, 2019 Has the oil ever been changed. You saying there was a 'pop' concerns me but it may have been a backfire, or unburned fuel popping through the Throttle Body. And then there is the grinding sound, but that might just be the starter on the flywheel. The only way to diagnose is to call out a mobile mechanic. https://www.google.com/search?q=mobile+mechanic+near+me ..

probably clips that hold actuator bar into door handle

it is problem with any door lock or door (switch if switch is there), if it is not going off after you make it off manual with help of lamp switch, then problem with lamp.

Have a load test done on the battery to check for dead cell as what you describe fits that problem profile. New is a relative term as either brand new or new to you (second hand)

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. They look the same https://www.oemfordpartsdirect.com/v-1998-ford-windstar--gl--3-8l-v6-gas/body--liftgate https://www.oemfordpartsdirect.com/v-2002-ford-windstar--base--3-8l-v6-gas/body--liftgate Two generations though, but you might be lucky if your 1998 is part of the 2nd Gen release. do you have a driver's side sliding door? Second generation (1999-2003) Released in the summer of 1998 as an early 1999 model, the Ford Windstar was given a complete redesign. As one of the first Ford vehicles in North America to adopt the New Edge styling language, the redesign also was distinguished by the addition of a driver's side sliding door. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Windstar Try it. ..

If you're referring to a fuel injected gasoline vehicle, self prime takes place at key start. If you still feel the need to have the computer repeat this process (or re- self prime), turn the key all the way until the dash lights come on, then turn off. Repeat this 5 times then attempt to start. If all the windows are closed and the radio is off, when you turn key on with engine off, you'll hear the fuel pump at the rear of vehicle buzz or hum as it's priming the system.

Try to get at them from under the vehicle.

Replace the multi function switch located behind steering wheel . Hazzard switch is a part of the combo switch and is a common cause of your vehicles symptom .

the wiper fuses / relays are in the top left of the fusebox

Fuse's burn if a component in a system has an electrical failure wether it be permanent or intermittent or sometime electrical circuits have an electrical surge which can be caused by numerous things and the fuse will burn to protect the circuit. If your fuse is coninuously burning out then you need to do some investigative work. First I would locate the fuel pump relay and remove that then replace the fuse and see if it burns out, second if you can access it try to unplug the wiring to the pump and replace the fuse, third you should check the wiring going to the pump to see if there is damaged wiring. The last thing that may (but unlikely) be the problem would be the ECM that controls the system. If the first three fail you should try and have it properly diagnosed by good shop.

Undr steern colum thers a blacbox w electronics..ucan pullout speakr carefully or cover it w tape to lessen sound

Your ECT system registers wheel spin from the wheel speed sensors.

Check for bypass bracket kits at big auto parts stores or online.

If you use a digital multimeter across battery posts, everything off, the generic for a full charge is 12.6 volts, and yes the .6 is a big deal. Generally it says if voltage is 12.4 or below, you need to charge the battery. Just my opinion. Leave the meter leads touching the battery posts, have helper turn key to crank position, Does the reading drop, what is the reading? If it does drop very much, then check for an open circuit to starter. If it drops all the way to zero, your going to have to check battery and battery connections. I did look at your starter wiring diagram, it appears your security system is a starter motor disable. If the security system is the issue then you may need a scanner to communicate with your security system.

measurement of what

one of the door/van loading door switches has failed it thinks a door is open so the the interior light stays on and the door open warning will ding the interior light should have a switch to disable it or take out the bulb but you cant stop the dinging until you find the faulty latch switch and fix it

The warning chime is on because the GEM - generic electronic module think's the door is open . Your best bet ,have a qualified repair shop check it out . Unless you have a scanner that will talk with the GEM & the engine computer & ABS computer , checking DTC'S - dfiagnostic trouble codes . If you don't know about this , take it to a repair shop.

Do you have a scan tool that can read sensor data PID'S ? 080 EGR and Catalytic Converter Tests EGR Test when I changed plugs one was a little wet. help Leaking fuel injector .

Your engine has IMRC (intake manifold runner controls) that are supposed to stay closed under 3000 rpms. Over time they get carboned up and can hang open causing poor performance. Try to manually close the valve, if it immediately opens again the diaphragm might be bad. It would require replacing that IMRC.

First check all spark plugs wires and boots the 0304 is a #4 cylinder misfire and if it's a +jumping to - this is affecting the other sensors a bad plug boot should be looked for and also check for cracked spark plugs at #4 cylinder next if you find that there's a leaking +to- antifreeze or oil leaking into that cylinder will cause it also and you have fixed the problem now disconnect the battery cables for 5 minutes and then reconnect them now turn your key to the on position to get the dash lights on but do not start the car and observe the lights if the check engine light goes out and abs and air bag now start the engine this is the self test mode for the obd system if the check engine light stayed on then there's still a bad sensor and read the codes again if your driving and the check engine light comes back on now do the same read the codes for other components that are bad the #4 misfire will definitely throw a bunch of codes because of the + leak to - and the other sensors here will be getting + voltage where there shouldn't be next if your getting the 0401-0402 that's the egr valve saying that it's insufficient first then excessive second the grounding could be frying that egr control solenoid next the 1537 &1538 are the intake manifold runners on both sides bank 1&2 cylinder head sides and could've been caused by the egr codes from the first problem next the 1744 is the torque converter clutch is stuck in the off position this can be also from the first problem but go to the transmission bulk head connector and unplug it and look for a fluid wet plug and connector or water from being loosely connected if water clean with denatured alcohol and let dry both sides bulk head and plug if you find fluid in the bulk head plug/connector you must drop the pan and change the bulk head and again clean the plug and change the transmission switches inside they are damaged from that same jumping off circuits from the fluid leak and also the water leak but maybe not you have to road test the van but I will tell you that the #4 cylinder misfire could be causing all the other codes but I wanted to include everything that's coming up because I am not there to check myself ok good luck Stephen