Your engine has IMRC (intake manifold runner controls) that are supposed to stay closed under 3000 rpms. Over time they get carboned up and can hang open causing poor performance. Try to manually close the valve, if it immediately opens again the diaphragm might be bad. It would require replacing that IMRC.
First check all spark plugs wires and boots the 0304 is a #4 cylinder misfire and if it's a +jumping to - this is affecting the other sensors a bad plug boot should be looked for and also check for cracked spark plugs at #4 cylinder next if you find that there's a leaking +to- antifreeze or oil leaking into that cylinder will cause it also and you have fixed the problem now disconnect the battery cables for 5 minutes and then reconnect them now turn your key to the on position to get the dash lights on but do not start the car and observe the lights if the check engine light goes out and abs and air bag now start the engine this is the self test mode for the obd system if the check engine light stayed on then there's still a bad sensor and read the codes again if your driving and the check engine light comes back on now do the same read the codes for other components that are bad the #4 misfire will definitely throw a bunch of codes because of the + leak to - and the other sensors here will be getting + voltage where there shouldn't be next if your getting the 0401-0402 that's the egr valve saying that it's insufficient first then excessive second the grounding could be frying that egr control solenoid next the 1537 &1538 are the intake manifold runners on both sides bank 1&2 cylinder head sides and could've been caused by the egr codes from the first problem next the 1744 is the torque converter clutch is stuck in the off position this can be also from the first problem but go to the transmission bulk head connector and unplug it and look for a fluid wet plug and connector or water from being loosely connected if water clean with denatured alcohol and let dry both sides bulk head and plug if you find fluid in the bulk head plug/connector you must drop the pan and change the bulk head and again clean the plug and change the transmission switches inside they are damaged from that same jumping off circuits from the fluid leak and also the water leak but maybe not you have to road test the van but I will tell you that the #4 cylinder misfire could be causing all the other codes but I wanted to include everything that's coming up because I am not there to check myself ok good luck Stephen
There is only thing will cause the check engine light to flash when you are driving and that is your catalyst converter is over heating and that is very dangerous if you continue to drive the van and the check engine light is flashing there is a very real possibility your van can catch on fire. What causes the catalyst converter to get hot is that raw fuel is being dumped into the exhaust system. That system can get so hot that it will glow cherry red it’s easier to see it at night. Please make sure and are expecting your problem correctly and if you are take it to a shop because you have more than one problem and the van is not safe to drive If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/edward_020b3320326d263d
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The top wires to headlamp are voltage for hi or lo beam.
The bottom black wire is ground. You can use a test light to check voltage and ground.
There's a bleed screw located at the bottom of the radiator. Open screw let fluid run out of radiator. Fill radiator with water run vehicle. Repeat above steps until fluid is clear. Use a coolant system flush. Refill system with appropriate amount of coolant and water.
Check the wiring inside the rubber boot from the body to the door . Opening an closing the door a million times can cause these wires to break . Testing the electrical circuit using a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter before replacing parts is the proper way to diagnose automotive electrical circuit's . You can find free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine size . Under system click body & accessories ,then under subsystem click on power locks or windows ,which ever you want to diagnose first .
Suggest you watch this video as well
Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know
incorrect pad material
brake manufacturers make 3 different pads for different applications and you need the pads used for taxi operations
there are anti noise pads fitted behind the pads ( plastic inserts and springs in use also to stop the noise
make sure that the callipers are free to slide on the mounting pins
other items like slotted and drilled rotors may be a help
talk with accredited specialist brake shops to make sure that during the replacement process you didn't miss a vital item that is now causing the noise
Do you know anything about automotive electronics ?
All courtesy lamps are controlled by the generic electronic module (GEM).
The four contacts are not switches , the part you want to replace is the door ajar switch . The door ajar switch is inside the door part of the lock actuator . Those contacts just allow circuit continuity when the door is closed , when you open the door continuity is broken or open . The GEM now know the door is open an will now turn on the dome lights . The door ajar switches stick , try spraying WD-40 into the door latch ,open an closing the latch . If this doesn't fix the problem you will need to take the inside door trim panel off and replace the ajar switch .
hi,
usually the auto trans has a filter in the pan. if the filters clogged it cant get enough pressure to shift. i recommend a new filter and gasket. cork gaskets are way easier to install than rubber gaskets. coat the cork gasket with form-a- gasket, you dont have to use an extreme amount, just enough so the gasket sticks to the pan.
jm
you need to have it properly aligned, the tracking is different on every vehicle there is an amount of play in the adjustments but if it will not go into the recommend rang on the alignment then there is a problem, before taking to have this done make sure the tracking nuts and bars are easily moveable, undo them and move back and forth as if they find it hard to move they charge you more, if they can undo the nuts and move the bars around easy they cannot charge you for the extra charge. also make sure you have new tyres fitted as work or uneven ware can affect the camber to the road and wear the tyres down quicker and cause other problems later on.
