1997 Ford Windstar - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

check brake switch on brake pedal

Most likely there is a bad diode in the alternator. needs tested.

even if they are both a 3.8 the answer is no.

Could be your alternator is not charging the battery. When you changed the battery did you let it run?

you could have a vacume hose leaking or your fuel filter is clogged up and is restricting your fuel to the engine. try listining for a hiss under the hood when started. or go to a parts store (autozone, Oreillys, NAPA,etc.., somewere that will hook up a code reader to your car and diagnose the problem that way. it should be free for them to scan your car.

I have the same issue. their are two things that you can do. One is pricey the other is free. Pricey, you will have to replace you window motor. Around 250 - 300 dollars. Free, and this is what I do. Remove the panel from the door. It just snaps off, except two screws in the bottom of the panel, remove the plastic from the door, on the lower left side of the door, closest to the hinge, you will see the electric motor. While holding the button for the windows in the down position, tap the bottom part of the motor with a hammer or other hard object. What this does is frees up the gearing in the motor, which is more than likely gunked up with filings from the brushes in the motor. I have done this and it has worked for both windows. Hope this helps

check with Ford it may have a rev limitor

if fluid is flowing out the bellows, you need to replace the steering rack assembly. There is no fluid in the area of the inner tie rod. The seal is just before the tie rod.

Steering Gear
The power rack and pinion steering gear is serviced as a power steering short rack (3L547). The front wheel spindle tie rods (3280) and tie rod ends (3A130) are serviced individually. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

• The power rack and pinion steering gear incorporates quick connect fittings for the power steering pressure hose (3A719) and power steering return hose (3A713) that allow the lines to swivel. This is normal and does not indicate loose fittings.
• If the fittings leak, check to make sure they are tightened to 14-20 Nm (10-14 lb-ft). Do not overtighten.
• If the leak is not corrected, replace the fitting seals.

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Section 11-02: Steering System, Power 1997 Windstar Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Tie Rod End Steering Gear Installed
Removal

1. Remove and discard cotter pin and nut from worn tie rod end (3A130).
   

1. Disconnect tie rod end from front wheel knuckle (3K185), using Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D or equivalent.
   

1. Hold tie rod end with a wrench and loosen tie rod end jam nut.
   

1. Note depth to which tie rod end was located by using the jam nut as a marker. Grip tie rod end with a pair of suitable pliers and remove tie rod end from front wheel spindle tie rod (3280).
   

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11-02: Steering System, Power 1997 Windstar Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Steering Gear Removal

1. Raise vehicle on a twin post hoist and remove wheel and tire assemblies. Refer to Section 00-02 .
   
   
   
   
   

1. Support vehicle with jackstands under front jack pads.
   

1. Remove tie-rod end cotter pins and nuts and remove tie rod ends (3A130) from front wheel knuckle (3K185). Refer to Section 04-01 .
   

1. Remove front stabilizer bar (5482). Refer to Section 04-01 .
   

1. Disconnect heated oxygen and catalyst monitor sensors.
   

1. Support flex pipe.
   

1. Remove bolts and disconnect flex pipe from the converter.
   

1. Raise dash opening steering column opening weather seal (3513) (secondary) above the steering gear housing (3548).
   

1. Remove pinch bolt retaining steering column intermediate shaft coupling (3A525) to power steering gear input shaft and control (3D517) and disconnect the shaft.
   

1. Remove nuts from steering gear-to-front subframe retaining bolts. Remove bolts.
   

1. Remove rear subframe-to-body retaining bolts.
   

1. Lower twin post hoist carefully until rear of subframe (5R003) separates from body, approximately four inches.
   

1. Remove heat shield band and fold shield down.
   

1. Rotate power rack and pinion steering gear to clear bolts from front subframe (5C145) and pull left to facilitate line fitting removal.
   

1. Place a drain pan under vehicle and remove line fittings.
   

1. Remove power rack and pinion steering gear through LH wheel well.
   

1. Remove and discard the O-rings.
   

Installation

1. Install new Teflon® O-rings on line fittings as outlined.
   

1. Place steering gear retaining bolts in steering gear housing.
   

1. Install power rack and pinion steering gear through LH wheel well.
   

1. Install power steering line fittings to power rack and pinion steering gear.
   

1. Position power rack and pinion steering gear into front subframe.
   

1. Install ******** heat shield.
   

1. Install tie-rod ends to front wheel knuckle. Install nuts and new cotter pins. Refer to Section 04-01 .
   

1. Install LH front stabilizer bar. Refer to Section 04-01 .
   

1. Install steering gear to subframe mounting nuts. Tighten to 115-135 Nm (85-99 lb-ft).
   

1. Raise hoist until rear subframe contacts body.
   

1. Install rear subframe to body retaining bolts. Tighten to 113-153 Nm (83-112 lb-ft).
   

1. Install exhaust system flex tube to dual converter Y pipe (5F250) and remove flex tube support.
   

1. Connect heated oxygen and catalyst monitor sensors.
   

1. Install tire and wheel assemblies. Tighten lug nuts (1012) to 115-142 Nm (85-104 lb-ft).
   

1. Using a new pinch bolt, install the steering column intermediate shaft coupling on the power steering gear input shaft and control and the lower steering column shaft. Tighten the pinch bolt to 34-46 Nm (25-33 lb-ft).
   

1. Position steering column opening weather seal (secondary) over the steering gear housing. Tighten nuts to 4.5-6.3 Nm (40-55 lb-in).
   

1. Remove jackstands and lower vehicle.
   

1. Fill power steering oil reservoir (3A697) with Premium Power Steering Fluid E6AZ-19582-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESW-M2C33-F. Refer to Section 11-00 .
   

1. Check system for leaks and proper operation.
   
   

Check battery voltage (should be at least 12v at battery and starter terminal) If 12v, check to see if you can turn the engine by hand (ign off) If you can't then it's locked up. (internal problem) Also, starter may be defective...just because its in a box, dosen't mean it's good (sad fact)
Hope it's a bad unit...better than a doa engine!!!
Good luck with it!

have you had ur manual lever switch replaced on the trannie???

If you are replacing the factory radio just get a wire adapter, wire it to you radio and plug in. I don't recommend any other way unless someone already cut the plug. If so just stop at your usual mechanic and ask for a wire diagram I know I would give one to my customers.

check for power to the fuel guage (or for blown fuse, of course!) If that is ok, and if you can access the fuel tank sending unit, pull off the power wire (usually red or with a red stripe) and hold it to a known good ground. If the guage goes up to full, you have a bad sending unit or it isn't grounded well. If the gauge still does not move, it's the guage itself. Easiest fix is to replace the cluster from a junkyard vehicle "donor"

the blendor actuators strip out the gear inside the actuator cases on these all the time. replace the actuator.

I would think the door you hear flapping is the door that controls the airflow across the heater coil - and the fan keeps blowing the door closed, preventing the airflow from going across the heating coil. I don't know whether this vehicle is vacum controlled or cable controlled - so either it's a disconnected cable, or a leaking vacum line.

We Call that A Sleeper and usualy Hidden Behidn a Bump in the Casting of Bracket

try to get the codes we starring from this

You will need to Loosen the Exhaust Manifolds to get to the Rear Spark Plugs. The Gaskets on the Manifolds will be OK to reuse in the Repair. I Know, It is a Flaw that Ford has not Fixed as of Recent. Please Rate My Response! Thanks!

FROM LUSTYKID:

You probably have a vacuum leak in the hoses connecting to Temp Control switch. Remove it carefully and inspect. Those things have mini -O rings sometimes. Any leak in any of the hoses and things go kaput. Check to make sure no leaks in the diaphram also.
As for the person with heat in the rear only, you need to check to see if the door is closing and opening. Not sure if yours is also motor control. If motor control replace the motor that operates the door. Is probably stuck in the hot position. But before you spend money ensure there isn't debris keeping the door from operating.

white smoke often indicates a blown head gasket.... what's the level of the antifreeze... if you are checking it by removing the rad cap... make sure it's cold first

Yes the switch is almost certainly the problem, it is located on the top of the trans under the lever that moves to select gear ranges, hard to miss, it has a large multi-wire connector on it, it is adjustable so make sure u make a mental note of the position of the 2 bolts (these retain the switch to the trans case) in the switch adjusting slots. The switch is called either the nuetral safety switch or the transmission range switch.