Top 20 1997 Ford Windstar - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Hello coreyschwand: My name is Roger and i will answer your question. In order to release the fuel filter you will need a special tool. This is available from any parts store. You will need to push the tool into the cavity of the fuel line to release the fingers. Do not try to pull the lines apart without the tool. You will damage the lock.
Should you need further help please just ask. Please rate the quality or your answer as this is how we know you received th answer you wanted. Thank You for using Fix Ya. Roger

Could be your alternator is not charging the battery. When you changed the battery did you let it run?

check with Ford it may have a rev limitor

you could have a vacume hose leaking or your fuel filter is clogged up and is restricting your fuel to the engine. try listining for a hiss under the hood when started. or go to a parts store (autozone, Oreillys, NAPA,etc.., somewere that will hook up a code reader to your car and diagnose the problem that way. it should be free for them to scan your car.

fuses under hood

POWER DISTRIBUTION BOX Location Name Amp Circuits Protected A Trailer Tow 50 Fuse 32/Fuse 26/Electric Brake B Fan (Hi) 60 Cooling Fan (CCRM) C Start 60 Starter Solenoid/Fuse 30/Fuse 36/Fuse 2 D Ignition 60 Fuse 6/Fuse 12/
Fuse 8/Fuse 18/Fuse 14/
Fuse 24/Fuse 20/Fuse 21/Fuse 27/Fuse 33 E Rear
Blower/
RAS 60 Rear Heater Blower Motor
Rear Air Suspension F Seat 60 Power Seats G — — Not Used H Fan-Lo 40 Engine Cooling Fans J Power Accessory 60 Fuse 13/Fuse 25/
Fuse 1/Fuse 31/Fuse 37/
Fuse 40/Fuse 7/Fuse 19 K Light 60 Headlamps/Fuse 10/
Fuse 11/Fuse 3/Fuse 9/
Fuse 23/Fuse 29/Fuse 35/Fuse 41/Fuse 17 L ABS 60 ABS Control/Pump Motor Module M Heated
Backlight 60 Heated Backlite/Fuse 16/Fuse 28/Fuse 22 N Fuel 20 PCM/Fuel Pump/CCRM P — — Not Used R PCM 15 PCM Memory S PCM 30 AX4S/Cylinder Identification Sensor/EDIS Module/PCM Power/EGR Control/HEGO's/IAC/
Injectors/MAFS/VMV T Alt./Reg. 15 Generator U Air Bag 10 Air Bag (Dedicated) V Trans. Light 10 Transmission Indicator Light W Fan 10 PCM Fan Monitor X Diode — Hood Lamp Diode Y Relay — RH Trailer Turn/Stop/Hazard Lamps Z Relay — Powertrain Control Module AA Relay — Windshield Wiper Speed BB Relay — LH Trailer Turn/Stop/Hazard Lamps CC Relay — Windshield Washer Pump Motor DD Relay — Windshield Wiper Dynamic Brake/Run
The fuses are color-coded by amp rating.

Fuse Value Amps Color Code 4 Pink 5 Tan 7.5 Brown 10 Red 15 Light Blue 20 Yellow 25 Natural 30 Light Green 40 Orange 50 Red 60 Blue

you need to find your decal on the underside of hood or on the shield above the radiator cooling fan.

1997 PCED OBDII-A SECTION 1A: Description and Operation
Vehicle Emission Control Information Decal Each vehicle has a decal (Figures 1 and 2) containing emission control information that applies specifically to the vehicle and engine. The specifications on the decal are critical to servicing emissions systems.

typical decal


Figure 1: Typical Vehicle Emission Control Information Decal for 49 States Vehicles




Figure 2: Typical Vehicle Emission Control Information Decal for California Vehicles




Figure 3: Typical Vehicle Emission Control Information Decal for Canadian Vehicles. In addition to the tune-up specifications and procedures, the emission decal shows a color-coded (shown in black and white) schematic of the engine vacuum system. The color coding on the schematic represents the actual color coding on the vacuum hoses. However, there will be instances when a hose color does not match the color on the decal.
Decal Location Typical location of the decal will be on the underside of the hood or the radiator support sight shield.

check brake switch on brake pedal

the check engine ligth just means you are not passing emissions right now. Coud be due to loose fill cap at some time, or filling the tank with the key on.
Try disconnecting the battery ground cable for an hour. Then reconnect and drive for 10 miles until computer relearns engine changes. It may run rough for 10 miles.

If still on, go to Autozone and ask them to perform a free computer scan & get the fault code. It will tell you which sysem to check.

check your battery,

the blendor actuators strip out the gear inside the actuator cases on these all the time. replace the actuator.

I would think the door you hear flapping is the door that controls the airflow across the heater coil - and the fan keeps blowing the door closed, preventing the airflow from going across the heating coil. I don't know whether this vehicle is vacum controlled or cable controlled - so either it's a disconnected cable, or a leaking vacum line.

Check battery voltage (should be at least 12v at battery and starter terminal) If 12v, check to see if you can turn the engine by hand (ign off) If you can't then it's locked up. (internal problem) Also, starter may be defective...just because its in a box, dosen't mean it's good (sad fact)
Hope it's a bad unit...better than a doa engine!!!
Good luck with it!

have you had ur manual lever switch replaced on the trannie???

even if they are both a 3.8 the answer is no.

If you are replacing the factory radio just get a wire adapter, wire it to you radio and plug in. I don't recommend any other way unless someone already cut the plug. If so just stop at your usual mechanic and ask for a wire diagram I know I would give one to my customers.

I have the same issue. their are two things that you can do. One is pricey the other is free. Pricey, you will have to replace you window motor. Around 250 - 300 dollars. Free, and this is what I do. Remove the panel from the door. It just snaps off, except two screws in the bottom of the panel, remove the plastic from the door, on the lower left side of the door, closest to the hinge, you will see the electric motor. While holding the button for the windows in the down position, tap the bottom part of the motor with a hammer or other hard object. What this does is frees up the gearing in the motor, which is more than likely gunked up with filings from the brushes in the motor. I have done this and it has worked for both windows. Hope this helps

check for power to the fuel guage (or for blown fuse, of course!) If that is ok, and if you can access the fuel tank sending unit, pull off the power wire (usually red or with a red stripe) and hold it to a known good ground. If the guage goes up to full, you have a bad sending unit or it isn't grounded well. If the gauge still does not move, it's the guage itself. Easiest fix is to replace the cluster from a junkyard vehicle "donor"

Yes the switch is almost certainly the problem, it is located on the top of the trans under the lever that moves to select gear ranges, hard to miss, it has a large multi-wire connector on it, it is adjustable so make sure u make a mental note of the position of the 2 bolts (these retain the switch to the trans case) in the switch adjusting slots. The switch is called either the nuetral safety switch or the transmission range switch.

We Call that A Sleeper and usualy Hidden Behidn a Bump in the Casting of Bracket

You will need to Loosen the Exhaust Manifolds to get to the Rear Spark Plugs. The Gaskets on the Manifolds will be OK to reuse in the Repair. I Know, It is a Flaw that Ford has not Fixed as of Recent. Please Rate My Response! Thanks!