20 Most Recent 1993 Ford Mustang - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Don't know if you already solved your Mustang's problem...the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve could be dirty, or if not cleanable not to costly to replace...a vacumn leak would be a more consistent problem...your local parts store can help you with the location of the IAC. Hope this helps.

Similar concern for the 3.8 V-6...or the 4.6 V-8...the least costly problem is usually a worn out..(stuck open) thermostat. I assume no water leaks? Most costly can be the heater core, due to extensive labor time...Be sure to use OE rated thermostat that opens at 195 degrees...for performance not heat, a 160 degree thermostat is available...but not good for heat build up...not a big job on your Mustang...Hope this helps.

Hi,

What is the problem

Regards

The firing order and spark plug wiring layout is depicted in over-the-counter repair manuals like the Haynes for '87-93 Ford Mustangs. If you can't spend the ~$20 on one of those (available at Pep Boys, Autozone, eBay, Amazon, etc) you should be able to check one out from your local library.

do they have the same part #? If so, you'll be okay for sure. You can also check their amperage rating, since most automotive block relays are wired the same (in case one is not original). If the amps match you should be good to go.

Can you verify your PCM (engine computer) is working properly? There are relays in the passenger footbox area behind the trim panel on the right (under the dash), just forward of the door opening. If one of those is bad your computer may not be getting power, and your computer controls spark and injector pulse. You may also have a bad computer ground... not super common but known to be an issue with some older cars.

Either a worn rack or a loose steering wheel bolt. Probably time for a new steering rack though. have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth slightly while you watch the steering linkage where it enters the rack; if the linkage is moving along with the wheel the problem is in the rack.

There will be a few places with fuseible links, first on the postive battery cable and next at the connection for the firewall mount starter solenoid and last at starter depending on starter type, if this is a single cable stater then no links at starter and also at alternator. these are all locations of links. all depending on what the problem is,hope this helps.

The best way to upgrade your 2.3L "Stang" is to save up your money and buy a car that has the upgrades that you are wanting. In the meantime, I would recommend not messing with things you do not understand and wiring the ignition cables the way they were designed to work on your vehicle.(See diagram)
Hopefully, you have not destroyed any high-dollar ignition module or computer parts.

Also, every time you disconnect the battery, the computer has to relearn how to idle. It is not necessary to disconnect the battery to re-wire your ignition cables. Just make sure the ignition switch is turned off so you don't get hair that stands straight out!

have ignition switch tested or replaced

The starter is a cylinder type unit located near the bottom of the engine in the rear. It will mount with the nose sticking into the transmssion and will have a large gauge wire from the battery connected to it. Hopefully this will help.

If there is no power going INTO the ignition switch, you most likely have a burned fusible link. The ignition switch gets its power from fusible link "A" It is a 16 Gauge, BLACK fusible link connected to the YELLOW wire for circuit #37. The fusible link is connected to the starter relay located on the left fender apron between the washer fluid reservoir and the strut tower.

Circuit #37splits into 3 "legs" at splice #S105. One leg of this circuit goes to the fuse block where it feeds fuse #1 (15 Amp) and fuse #2 (10 Amp).

The other two legs of this circuit BOTH go to the ignition switch. (you should have TWO large yellow wires connected to the ignition switch.)

Hi, welcome to FixYa.com my name is Shawn and I will be answering your question.

The fuel pump relay is located in the Right hand side of the engine compartment on the lower front wheel well.

I hope my assistance helped you and resolved your concern, if you need further assistance please ask.

What Computer & Why ?

How would you use the vehicle?

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What you need to do is take the distributor out and by hand turn the engine so that Cylinder #1 is at TDC on the Ignition cycle. YOu can determine this by watching the valve rockers. Once the Exhaust valve has opened and closed, the intake valve should open and close. At that point watch the crank balancer for the "timing" marks to line up. Then install the distributor with the cap OFF, watching the rotor. It will rotate as you lower the distributor so you will have to rotate the dist shaft the right amount before you try to put it in so the rotor will point to #1 on the cap when it is all the way in.

Give some more details of the problem.