20 Most Recent 1991 Ford Explorer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

This could be many different things. The most common is a bad fuel pressure regulator or an injector sticking open.You dont say if it is missing or blowing black smoke out of the exhaust? If it is missing on one or more cylinders start bypulling the plugs and checking compression on those cylinders. unburned fuel accumulating in a cylinder with low compression can leak past the rings and dilute the oil with gasoline.

have you changed your tran fluid
if not check and see if it is burned or has a burned smell to it
have the pan dropped and change fluid first

technically there is no reserve tank, just at zero most tanks have about 2 -3 gallons to allow you to get to a gas station

how does the shifter feel.
is it loose
are you sure when you move it that it is changing gears.
if it feels loose or sloppy you may have broke the pin that holds the shifter to the tran
take the boot off the shifter and check

sounds like you have your hands full.
power windows: If they all don't work check your fuses
your fuse panel is on you driver side left of the steering wheel, under the dash.
heat problem: is the engine running at normal temp
if it is running colder than it should you may have a thermostat that is stuck open must replace it.
if the engine is at the correct temp the you may have a clogged or failing heater core.
as it goes for the running poor and fuel consumtion you may just need a tune up

sounds like a bad ground cable or loose cable. also check to make sure the battery cable ends are clean and not corroded or cracked where they make contact to the battery.

c...

Pull the wheel and inspect brakes for loose bolts and drive hub for loose nut, If nut / retainer had backed off or broken there is an updated part avaliable from FORD. Not expensive.

YOU ARE GOING TO NEED A BIG CRESENT WRENCH AND THE TREADS ON THAT ARE REVERSE. DON'T FORGET TO PUT LOCKTITE BACK ON THE THREADS WHEN RE-INSTALLING

If the headlamp is dirty inside, it needs to be replaced with a new one that has good seal.
Try Ebay.com for parts for your car, or a salvage yard.

Water Pump REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2.3L and 2.5L Engines Fig. 1: Exploded view of the water pump and related parts for the 2.3L and 2.5L engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the cooling system. CAUTION
   When draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old.
   
3. Remove the two bolts that retain the fan shroud and position the shroud back over the fan.
4. Remove the four bolts that retain the cooling fan. Remove the fan and shroud.
5. Loosen and remove the accessory drive belt. Earlier models may have two drive belts, remove them both.
6. Remove the water pump pulley and, if necessary, the vent hose to the emissions canister.
7. Remove the heater hose at the water pump.
8. Remove the timing belt cover. Remove the lower radiator hose from the water pump.
9. Remove the water pump mounting bolts and the water pump. Clean all gasket mounting surfaces.
10. Install the water pump in the reverse order of removal. Coat the threads of the mounting bolts with sealer before installation.

2.9L Engines

1. Drain the coolant from the radiator and remove the lower hose and the return hose from the water inlet housing. CAUTION
   When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.
   
2. Using Tools T83T-6312-A and B remove the fan and clutch assembly from the front of the water pump. NOTE: See the engine fan removal procedure in this section.
   
3. Loosen the alternator mounting bolts and remove the alternator belt.
4. Remove the water pump pulley.
5. Remove the bolts retaining the water pump assembly and remove the water pump, water inlet housing, and the thermostat from the front cover.
6. Before installing the water pump, clean the gasket surfaces on the front cover and on the water pump assembly. Apply gasket sealer to both sides of the new gasket and install the water pump in the reverse order of removal.

3.0L Engine

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
2. Drain the cooling system. CAUTION
   When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.
   
3. Remove the engine fan.
4. Loosen the 4 water pump pulley bolts.
5. Remove the accessory drive belts. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the 3.0L engine water pump
   
   
6. Remove the water pump pulley.
7. Remove the alternator adjusting arm and throttle body brace.
8. Remove the lower radiator hose.
9. Disconnect the heater hose at the pump.
10. Rotate the belt adjuster out of the way.
11. Remove the water pump attaching bolts. Note their location for installation.
12. Remove the pump and discard the gasket.
13. Thoroughly clean the pump and engine mating surfaces. To install:
    
14. Using an adhesive type sealer, position a new gasket on the timing cover.
15. Position the water pump and start the bolts. When all the bolts are started, torque them to specifications. Refer to the necessary illustration. Fig. 3: 3.0L engine water pump and front cover fastener chart
    
    
16. Install the lower hose and connect the radiator hose.
17. Install the pulley and hand-tighten the 4 bolts.
18. Install the alternator adjusting arm and brace.
19. Install the belts and tension them. See Section 1.
20. Tighten the 4 pulley bolts to 19 ft. lbs.
21. Install the fan.
22. Fill and bleed the cooling system.
23. Connect the battery ground cable. Run the engine and check for leaks.

easiest way to tell is look inside Driver door jam. there should be a sticker or plate that shows production date - IE-> 8/91

The fuelpump relay is located under the hood on the right side fender well, rightside would be the passenger side and is inside the relay box, heres a diagram to help you locate the relay, good luck.

can you renterate your question again?

try testing the relay switch that is in the rear panel on drivers side. Have someone push the fourwheeldrive button and see if you hear the relay clicking if it doesclick than look at cable going to transfer case and see if itmoves in and out

Check your fuses if they are all fine then it may be the switch went bad.

the fuel pump relay is under the hood, I can't tell you for sure which relay it is I usually look at a wiring diagram and match it by wire colors. It could also be the inertia fuel cut off switch which is a safety device to cut the fuel pump off in a rollover accident. I've seen people accidentally kick these which will trip them or even kick the plug loose which cuts power to the pump. they are usually located in the center front under the dash or behind one of the kick panels on the side of the floorboard. if it's tripped the button will be popped up just push it back in and it will reconnect the power supply. it's also possible the relay under the hood got water in it and fried but it's hard to say for sure.

No, it uses a standard steering box..........not rack and pinion.

for the 6cyc it is 142536

replace or have transmission overhauled.










Tim

fuel sending unit in the tank is bad