20 Most Recent 1997 Dodge Caravan - Page 8 Questions & Answers

No your neutral safety switch wont let you tun over the engine, try putting a small amount of gas down the intake, if it starts after that your fuel pump may be bad.

Most blower motors are on the front passenger side below the glove box. should be 2 plugs and 4 screws.

Check the timing belt. If it is old it may have enough slack in it to momentarily retard the timing when you hit the loud pedal or when you let off.

its not the battery. its your remote battery :)

Take it to a local Auto Zone for them to read the codes. It is probably a engine misfire and needs a tune up, spark plugs and wires.

Disconnect your battery. Touch the two battery cables together. (make sure they are not in contact while hooked to the battery). Then leave the battery disconnected for 10mins. Connect battery again. This should reset the computer. Sometimes lights my be on until you drive the vehicle a short distance, then it resets.

The body controller (BCM) must send a message to the engine controller (PCM) to tell the PCM that it's OK to start and run when a theft system is involved. As long as the OK-to-run signal can make it to the PCM, all will be well.

But during the times when the gauges are flat, the bus communication system is probably crashed and there's no way to deliver the message. The PCM has no recourse but to disallow fuel at that point, killing the engine. The only thing that doesn't fit is that the starter isn't taken away at some point, but it may be something that doesn't happen in every model year. The solution is with the communication bus, the CCD. It operates on two circuits, 2.5 volts each and connects to every module on the van that needs to share information. The instrument cluster printed circuit board is actually much more than just a board, it's a processor in its own rite. It controls gauges, telltale bulb illumination and supports the CCD bus both through voltage regulation and supplies the point of circuit termination (ground). The termination seems to be the key. Without ground, the bus voltage is pushed far above its normal 2.3 to 2.5 volt range, into the 7-volt area. Bus communication depends upon a voltage matrix very close to 2.5 volts, so this effectively crashes the network. Everything becomes a zero. One very good diagnostic tool for when the system crashes is to apply a firm, open-palm slap to the dash just above the instrument cluster. Works almost every time. While the problem can be temperature related (parked in sun), a good jolt usually brings it back online and allows the van to start and run. It seems ham fisted but it's almost impossible to diagnose by disassembly. The act of touching the area around the cluster normally brings it back and you're faced with the question of whether it was coincidence or not. I prefer the slap. Testing the data link connector (DLC), the trapezoid-shaped connector under the left dash area, will tell you if the bus is crashed or not. The third terminal from the left on each row (8 apiece) is CCD bus. Remember that 2.3 to 2.5 volts is normal while the key is on and the bus is active. You should see the voltage dancing, varying rapidly in response to data transmission if tested with a digital voltmeter. Anything above this is likely to be FAR above, indicating a slap is at hand... you know what I mean. The board isn't cheap... close to $450 and it requires a calibration before the tach or speedometer will operate. This may involve a trip to the dealer; I'm not sure if aftermarket scan tools can accomplish this task. Labor to install a board can also vary according to your repair facility.

Spake pluge could have gone bad, or the Spark Plug wire. Try changing all your plugs and wire and inspect the old one's. The wire could be bad do to time or may have been against the exhaust manifold and brunt. Good luck

Go back to your mechanic and tell him/her to check if your pulleys are aligned right. The problem may also be that your components just weren't manufacturered with the right pulleys- I have come to understand that Chrysler is notorious for that kind of stuff.

Did you clear the codes after playing with the wires and injectors ?Have you checked for injector pulse on all 6 injectors ?

take the dash instrument panel out and you will see a broken soulder. take a souldering gun to the broken soulder and bingo...problem fix just did it on mine

This is a problem that is caused by a defective fuel level sending unit inside the fuel tank, in order to replace the sender you must remove the fuel tank from the car.

Will the color code do, or do you need the actual wiring diagram?
1997 Dodge Caravan Car Radio Stereo Audio Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Constant 12v+ Wire: Pink
Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: Red/White
Car Radio Ground Wire: Chassis
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Black/Yellow
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Green
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Red
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Violet
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Red
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/Yellow
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Light Blue
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Orange
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/White

did you check the fuses? and /or cables?

go to autozone.com they have diagrams

More than likely the transmission was worked on and the mechanic failed to hook up the backup lights correctly.