Sounds like you are possibly loosing fuel prime. One easy way to confirm is to cycle the key a couple of times in the morning to prime the system before trying to crank the engine. If it starts better then you have confirmed that the fuel system is loosing pressure when the truck sits. From here you have to determine if it is a bad pressure regulator or a bad injector letting fuel bleed by when the engine is off.
Question edited for clarity.
Question moved to model category.
There is help in the link, but you have a dead short somewhere. One trick you can try is replace the fuse, and the fuse box cover. Put blankets over the headlamps. Turn the garage lights off and let your eyes acclimatize to the dark. Then whilst looking into the engine, get someone to crank the engine. Look for a flash in the wiring.
More ideas here, starters, relays and stuff
https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+Chevy+Silverado+LS+5.3.+Every+time+I+try+to+crank+it+pops+the+Ignition+A+fuse
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This may be an issue that’s easily solved but requires a diagnostic scanner that’s more advanced than most cheaper models like found at homes or most auto parts store chains. Ask friends/family who the most knowledgeable/reasonable mechanic that they know is- preferably one with training and dealership/high end shop experience- they’ll be more likely to have the better diagnostic equipment. If I took the context of the question wrong and you mean the time it takes for the evaporation system to cycle- that varies by vehicle but usually isn’t a long time- call your local dealer depending on the manufacturer of the vehicle and ask them- ask for the parts department, also try service if they don’t help. Many will allow you to ask a technician a question if you ask the right way...good luck
See if the fuel pump is working. Turn the key on and listen by the gas tank if you hear the pump working. Mine was still working but didn't have enough pressure to keep the truck running. You might want to test the fuel pressure.
id say gas guage is broken i have seen lots of chevys around that year go bad. got to change whole fuel pump which is in the tank. not to bad just got to lift bed some. not sayin that is the problem because of the other things happening but just saying it may be. as for rest i have no clue.
The ignition coil has two separate windings. They are not connected. Start by testing from one terminal to connection to another. If this works then the two others should be the other circuit. The primary coil has a low resistance, up to 10 ohms. The secondary winding has a higher resistanse, up to 100 ohms or so. If you measure Mohms then the coil jhas a break.
It sounds like a short you can test by removing the NEG. cable from the BAT. put a volt meter from the POS. red lead on post of BAT. and black lead to engine block or known good ground if you read voltage you have a short .
Your tow and hall switch sounds like the place to start look at the fuse box although a blown fuse would cut power off to it but look anyway.
Next check all of your lights brakes blinkers running reverse tow and hall means you have a plug to hook up to trailer lights some ware . It could also be a brake switch at the brake pedal. You need to think its likely some thing vary simple a bad connection at a bulb or lose ground wire but its in the lighting system .This could have shorted the tow switch out see if you can reach up under the dash and unplug the tow switch but check all these other things first think about the problem before you do things you can't prove
You have power where at the starter ? Heavy positive cable or the control wire at the solenoid ? Is the truck manual or automatic trans ? Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb Do you know how to use a wiring diagram for testing electrical circuits ? How to use a DMM - digital multi-meter ? Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine size . Under system click on engine ,then under subsystem click on charging system . Starter circuit is the first one under that system. Click the search button then the blue link. A lot involved here that could cause a no crank . Ignition switch ,crank fuse , park neutral safety switch for automatic trans . clutch switch for manual trans . Starter relay ,ign.fuse 40 amp , Heavy gage battery cable to the starter solenoid , an if you have B+ voltage at that cable doesn't mean it can't be bad . Corrosion will cause voltage drop , need to test while trying to crank the engine .
Starter Voltage Drop
Do you know how a relay works ?
VEHICLE RELAYS Operation Diagnosis your starter relay works just like this one in the video .
If you're finding it difficult to service/repair your car, get one of those online manuals. You'll not have to wait for others to answer, or rely on mechanics and all. Plus I know a website that has very good manuals online, without expiry i.e. for lifetime.
www.reliable-store.com
If the unit is getting the signal frim the pedal depression, it has to work. check that it's getting the signal when you depress the pedal. Check those connections, if all that is fine, the unit itself is faulty.
It could be the coolant level sensor. Is there any internal damage to reservior. Is there a loose or dirty wire connection on the side or bottom of the reservior. Is this reservoir located on passenger side near firewall?
The only realistic way the gauges can come back on is if there is a problem with your ignition switch - it is not staying off in the off position. The switch is located at the bottom of the steering column and may have come loose, may be misaligned or may be faulty.
When your stopped, that is usually closed throttle. I'd want to check and clean anything that has to do with idle air system, where applicable.
Sometimes with fuel gages, I do testing by using a couple of resistors representing full and empty. If your gage reacts properly, the problem should be the sending unit in the gas tank.
