Top 20 1983 Ford Mustang Hatchback - Page 5 Questions & Answers

the engine is cranking, turning over but not starting unlikely to be a fuel pump run the fault codes and look for crank/cam position senor problems , ignition control module problems, ignition switch problems

I really don't know a lot about the vehicle you're just driving because your engine but you did say it's a 351 I think you should go to a machine shop because they may be able to fabricate a new intake for that might be your cheapest way to go it might only be 60 or $70 but don't you fix it right

The make a special tool to remove them or you can drive it out with brass drift punch and a hammer

I tried the DIY service and repair manuals from a website and it actually helped me repair transmission problem in my ford explorer. it wont move forward or reverse, engine is good both solenoids for forward and reverse work. I don't have much technical knowledge but I just followed it step-wise, and works perfect! got it from www.reliable-store.com

Hi Trevor, I would be checking for a vacuum leak/air leak between the cylinder head and the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) sensor, sounds like it is getting unmetered air past the MAF sensor. Running a lean mixture will cause overheating issues and high idle amongst other problems like low power, and rough running. Also check resistance of the MAF sensor and Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), and give MAF a clean with Correct cleaner. Double check and make sure all wiring connections are in properly around fuel system, MAF, TPS, IAC ect. Cheers,

SOUNDS LIKE HEAVY LOAD ON UP DIRECTION. MY GUESS IS A FUSEABLE LINK HEATS UP, STOPS ELECTRICITY, COOLS DOWN AND RECONNECTS. IF UNDER WARRANTY, GO TO SELLER. IF NOT A FREE REPAIR, WITH THE WINDOW DOWN, YOU COULD USE A SILICONE SPRAY ON THE THE VISIBLE WINDOW TRACKS. ALSO YOU COULD HAVE ANOTHER PERSON USE THEIR PALMS ON BOTH SIDES OF THE WINDOW TO ASSIST IN RAISING IT UP A FEW TIMES. IF THESE ACTIONS DON'T CURE THE RESISTANCE THEN A LOCAL MECHANIC OR GLASS INSTALLER COULD INSPECT THE CAUSE.

Do you have spark at any of the plugs ?

I recently tried the DIY service and repair manuals from a website and it actually helped me repair transmission problem in my jcb 3cx site-master. it wont move forward or reverse, engine is good both solenoids for forward and reverse work. I don't have much technical knowledge but I just followed it step-wise, and works perfect! got it from www.reliable-store.com All the best

Try www.reliable-store.com , it's very helpful in repairing your vehicle

Hi try to do learn before you change i think its will solve the problem maybe you disconect the battery and the learn erased if not work good change it .

FREE drawings for you Mustang can found on BBB Industries website... at BBB Industries Premium Alternators Starters Power Steering Products These are REAL documents so REGISTRATION is required I would be looking for that very huge body plug assembly that goes through the fire-wall (is secure)... ALSO check out the TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETINS (TSBs)... Every time you return from a CIRCUIT it will default you to the TSB listings... Go there... When these MANUFACTURES do the bad thing... all their Apprentice (rookies) start there (good idea). Hope this helps Carnac the Magnificent

I tried the DIY service and repair manuals from a website and it actually helped me repair transmission problem in my jcb 3cx site-master. it wont move forward or reverse, engine is good both solenoids for forward and reverse work. I don't have much technical knowledge but I just followed it step-wise, and works perfect! got it from www.reliable-store.com

F4 30 amp under hood fuse box , F45 5amp - smart junction box ( passenger compartment fuse box ) right or left kick panel probably . Also ,there is a blower motor relay - under hood fuse box. You can check those but don't think it would be one of those . More then likely it's the blower motor speed controller .

You must check the module for moisture or bent pins or not tight enough what size motor is it and who did the rebuild also please try to be more specific right now I don't know what you have in it as a motor and is it a swap from an 6-8 or is it 5.0-4.6 ?

There is a lock on the gear selector that requires a signal from the switch on the brake or clutch pedal. This switch often gets broken or dislodged from its holder and then will not release the shifter. Kind of strange for engine to start as the lockout is suppose to be 2 fold. To prevent starting by stopping the signal to the starter relay and next by locking the shift in Park. Check under dash at those pedal levers.

Some of the older cars with ignition switches in the steering column use rods to engage a switch in the lower part of the column, usually under the dash. The key switch may have gotten worn enough to get the rods out of alignment or maybe even bent. This is a 22 year old car and things can wear. The key switch may have to be replaced.

Greetings, I read your question and I think Reliable-Store can help you in this. Here's the site link. Best Manuals

Yes, too lean is the problem. Just means "not enough gas" is flowing. Could be as littlie as a plugged up gas filter or worst scenario, a bad fuel pump. Either way, it isn't getting enough fuel into the engine. When it WAS running, and you pushed the throttle all the way open, it was then getting way too much air for what little fuel was going in. That's why it did what you said.

This is a Ford specific OBDII code that means either your vacuum control regulator is either faulty or you have a short to ground or a short to power in the circuit. Hope this helps. How to Test the Ford EGR Valve EGR Vacuum Solenoid DPFE Sensor

did you fit the oil slinger washer on before the timing gear on the crankshaft it is about 2mm thick and could be the distance required did you fit then crank position rotor on before the balancer pulley