1988 Ford F 250 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

It could be anything. Something in the vacuum lines in the wrong place? https://www.google.com/search?q=1988+ford+f250+5.8+vacuum+diagram Crank No Start https://www.google.com/search?q=1988+Ford+F-250+5.8+EFI.+Crank%2C+no+start+after+replacing+vacuum+lines ..

check ur vacum hoses one must b leaking

i would check EBay, craigs list or car-part.com

There is not way to hotwire this.

https://www.mistertransmission.com/engine-revs-during-shift/

i take it that in your statement " it took a bit for the power to kick in" you were referring to the clutch slipping or not engaging correctly pressing the pedal and not going anywhere indicates a compensating port in the clutch master cylinder to be blocked the best and cheapest fix here is a new master cylinder and slave cylinder as both are near their service life end replace the hydraulics first as it is the cheapest fix first and then if it turns out to be the pressure plate , you will need new hydraulics to handle the increase pressure of the new pressure plate all of your statement tend to master cylinder problems

check the alternator maybe less power delivery from it

I would replace the distributor stator and the TFI ignition module both of which are in and on the distributor. Use Ford OEM parts (Motorcraft) as after market fail very quickly.

replace the ignition switch (actuator) it is worn inside, i had the same problem awhile back I replaced it had no more problems, the contacts get burnt at that point and works now and then, so that should take care of the problem

You need to do a fault code test follow the link. The connector is red and under the hood drivers side and clipped to the fender lip in most years. Ford OBD Trouble Codes

Was it running when you bought it? Backfire could mean something as simple as a cracked distributor cap or rotor(come in a kit,about 25 bucks to replace). Could be jumped timing chain on the expensive side of things. The little ignition module on the side of the distributor can go bad also. don-ohio (:^)

Internally regulated Ford alternator will have a three wire plug and a single wire plug next to it. Plus the battery stud. The regulator is normally black or gray in color mounted on the back of alternator. The three wires plugs to the regulator. Externally regulated will not have these plugs. Hope this is helpful.

Don't expect the ECM to fix anything. Have you checked the Inertia switch under the dash on the passenger side?

Replace the starter solenoid on the fire wall. If you jump it and still no turning. replace the starter..

Engine size? I'm guessing 5.8. Heavy duty or light duty? I'm guessing light duty. Here is a diagram for the above mentioned. You need to be more specific when looking for diagrams. If a different engine, let me know and I will provide the diagram

The timing is off. A tune up is in order!

And yet... others absolutely insist on Shell Rotella

Depending on the size probably 2 or three. Due to the age of the system unless rebuilt, I would start with the large can with "sealant", which usually has a pressure gague includeded. If that is not enough to bring it up to "sufficient" charge, continue with a smaller regular can. etc. If you have a serious leak, no size of can will help. My 20 hr old car is still holding with the above treatment several years ago.

You have a faulty sensor on your transmission must be replaced with a good technician it should be a quick fix !!

Hi and welcome to FixYa!

Any erratic idle problem? If it does then it can be the MAF (mass air flow) sensor or IACV (idle air control valve). If one of these two is faulty the vehicle will have vacuum supply irregularities which may cause stalling. I strongly suggest that you have an engine scan on your nearest auto repair shop to know what needs to be replaced.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!