20 Most Recent 2005 Ford F 350 Super Duty - Page 9 Questions & Answers

e-mail me at [email protected] do you need engine compartment fuses and inside fuses?

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I am going thru this same situation...As I deal with different issues, and possible solutions, I will let you know.STEVE HODGE

Your upfitter wires are located at the firewall just above the brake master cylinder. There should be 4 wires that come out of large wiring harness and are taped into place. Black red blue and white. The relays for these 4 circuts are located behind the glove box on the passenger side.

the connections are behind the glove boxx and have the relays installed at the factory.

Check the relay in the fuse box they sometime hang up.

Clean the insde of the flex hose andthe hard pipe with denatured alcohol. This removes the oil that is blown from the turbo. Then reinstall making sure no oil exists.

It does have a towing package right? A button on the end of the gearshift that you push in when towing? It sounds like it is in too high of gear. Maybe trans fluid gets hot and turns on the light? If it dont have the towing package? Are you keeping it in overdrive? Shift it down manually and keep it in 3rd when hauling any kind of weight.Not sure if this helps but I know peopl that have burnt their transmission out pulling trailers in O/D

I just looked at the manual for it. It didn't even say it had keyless entry. You are tlking about a keypad on the door? Or a wireless remote? If it is wireless you can look at online manual for it and it tells you how to program it.https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.aspIf it is door key pad I had same problem with a lincoln I had. Everywhere I looked on internet told me the codes was either under the dashboard below the glove box or on the trunk hinge. They are on the box that controls the door locks. I looked and looked. And finally found it behind the driver side door panel. It was five numbers on a sticker, right on the control box. I hope this helps.

Start out by tracing down that wire that runs to it. Take a test light and see if your getting juice to it. if your not it sounds like you may have a broke or grounded out wire. Try that as a first test . It could be that simple.

you have blown off a charge air cooler pipe. one runs from the turbo to the charge air cooler and one runs from the intake to the charge air cooler. if the boots are not ripped or blown out, clean the oil off from the boots with brake parts cleaner and tighten the clamps back down. always carry an 11mm wrench in your 6.0

The first thought that comes to mind is a high pressure oil leak. The injectors have a snap ring on top that sometimes becomes detached and it will create these symptoms.

When you depress the brake it sends a signal to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) and the PCM increases the idle because it predicts you are about to shift into gear. If the truck has a high pressure leak inside the engine it will have a hard time building pressure initially and once the oil warms and thins out the High Pressure Oil Pump cannot hold the pressure and the oil leaks faster because it is thinner.

You may have a leak around the pump area which is under the turbo also. The IPR which is the regulator that controls the oil pressure may also be bad. It is directly under the turbo as well. The IPR is located under the turbo on the High Pressure Oil Pump cover. You stated the seals were leaking on the IPR itself? If the orings are damaged or if the screen in the end of it is collapsed or even punched through with a small hole it will need replaced. Screen damage is usually a sign of debris entering it from either dirt from a previous repair or something is coming apart inside.

Make certain you have clean oil and fuel filters. Yor may want to check fuel pressure as well. It should be somewhere around 55psi on acceleration.

Additionally, I suggest check for voltage at the connector on the fuel pump. The pump is mounted in the filter housing on the frame and the connector is at the front of it. The pink and black wire should have 12 volts with the key on for about 30 seconds. If the pump has voltage but is not running, then your pump has failed. If there is no voltage then check fuse 2.40 in the central junction box. This is the fuse that feeds the inertia switch through the fuel pump relay. I have included a fuse box layout and a wiring diagram (click over images for zoom)...





Additionally, will need to scanned the PCM to know if some fault code is stored there.

Keep us updated.

Check for fuel pressure at the primary fuel filter. there if you move the plug for the fan clutch you can see an auxillary plug on the filter housing facing forward and to the driver side. You should have 40+psi with key on. another way to check the pump is to listen for it to cycle on for 10 seconds or so after key on. Also check for lubricating oil pressure on the cluster gauge and then high pressure oil with a manual gauge. its needs to see around 600psi oil pressure to signal the injectors to fire. best way to check all of these is with a scanner that has data reading, which will also tell you if you have a bad ficm, ecm or sensor connection.

sorry to say you more than likely have a blown head gasket or bad intake gasket