20 Most Recent 1984 Ford Mustang Questions & Answers

There are special electronic fuel pumps you can get for this kind of conversion that wont put to much fuel pressure in the carb and blow the bowls.
As long as the distributer is vacuum advance and for a 302 it should be able to work. The main difference will be the firing order on the truck engine may be different. So you have to make sure your #1 cylinder is at top dead center and route the post on the cap its pointing at to the #1 cylinder and go from there.
The intake and carb you have should also work.

Sounds as if you have blown a fusible link. Don't know Fords that well, but usually these are inside the several hot wires going to the battery +, or the starter main +.

The first four digits denote the year, model of vehicle, and type of part. D9 is 1979 model year, AE is full size model and engine. 6015 is Ford's part number for just about every engine they have produced since the 1950s. ED21 denotes the actual part and how many times it has been changed. This could be a 5th version 351Winsdor engine from a full size car. The parts dept of any Ford dealer should be able to tell you for sure.

check the grounds at the starter solenoid and usually the solenoid has a bad ground. make sure there is a ground to the body and the chassis.

passenger side , under dash.

Only if it is fuel injected !!

Although your temperature gauge may show that it works, some models have a second temperature sensor for the engine management system.That second sensor provides info which sets curb idle and timing advance. The "Cold start" feature is a part of this. The hic-cup is something of a bucking symptom as the engine controls toggle between hot and cold run settings repeatedly as water temperature is not stable. In the past, I found several 1984 engines having defective thermostats which are tied into "Step-up" solenoids for the curb idle. What happens is idle speed is suppose to drop when the engine is hot.When someone adjusts the curb idle while the engine is on the "cold setting", the setting(rpm) will be too low once the engine has heated up and the part drops to a hot setting.So to clearly define your problem, you have 2 stemming from the same defects. The "in motion" problem is caused by timing changes based on temperature and the "idle" problem is caused by improper adjustment of the curb idle solenoid because of unstable operating temperature.What you want to do is change your thermostat. This will give you a stable temperature. Then let the engine heat up and you should notice a "click" and the engine should idle down. It may stall. Then turn the idle rpm up until the engine will not stall.The hic-cups should disappear once the operating temp is reached. If you still have problems then look for the water temperature sensors before replacing expensive parts.

check all connections to starter or your voltage regulator

Maybe the solenoid is defective?.....or.....

There are 2 types of fender mounted solenoids and they look identical.

One......you apply power to one of the small terminals to actuate it.....the other small terminal is a power while cranking for the ignition on older models.(do you have these connections correct)?

The other model....and it looks the same......YOU GROUND THE SAME SMALL TERMINAL to actuate it.

make sure that your fuel pump is rated for the same pressure as your carb. if you bought it as a package deal than it probably is but unlike fuel injected vehicles that have a pressure regulator the fuel is constant flow in a carb.

You need to check the electronics for fault codes, here is how you do that.

hi, i think in that year the fuel pump is bolted to the engine right hand side. these have a glass bowl on the top, one pipe IN and one pipe OUT. but i could be wrong gerry

same as any nother car. take off mastercylinder cap. get a helper set in the drivers seat. apply pressure to the brake peddle. with a box or tube wrench break the fluid *** on the top of the calliper/back of drum loose. foot pressure on peddle should push it to the floor -hold it on the floor! tighten the *** on the caliper/drum tight-ish. not over tight. then let peddle up off floor. pump till you get resistance/tighteness. hold pressure on peddle, loosen *** again and peddle will go to floor again tighten ***, lift up peddle pump for pressure. repeat untill all air is out of line/ or fluid runs out clear. never let the master cylinder get low on fluid. have plenty on hand. repeat for all 4 tires.

Technically the idle speed is not adjustable. The computer controls idle speed with the idle speed control motor.Base idle is around 500 RPM with normal idle in park at 800.

try to advance the timing a little!with the distributer. 1 deg. should be good. get a timing light

its in the trunk on the passenger side

Hi Steven, I would think of replacing the the points (contact breaker) and condenser (capacitor) Theses are inside the distributor and revealed by removing the distributor cap. Remove the holding clips or screws (I don't remember which) and then lift off the cap and rotor arm. remove the cables connecting to the condenser and points. Remove both points and condenser and replace both and reconnect the electrical cables. Turn the engine by hand until the contact breaker is fully opened by one of the cam lobes on the center shaft and then adjust the gap to point four five millimeters. Rotate the engine again by hand until the points close and then with the ignition turned on but not cranking check you have spark by opening the points with a plastic tool. Once the spark is confirmed turn the engine to the timing marks (Please confirm ignition timing but I believe it is 6 degrees before Top Dead Center. Turn the engine so that the timing marks align at that setting and then set the points by loosening off the distributor body and rotating it so that the points are just about to open but are still closed. Tighten everything up and refit the rotor arm and cap and start the engine. For a more accurate setting of the distributor timing use a strobe timing light after initial start up. Always attend to the ignition timing before attempting any carburetor adjustment. Regards John