20 Most Recent 1989 Ford F 150 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

sounds like the EGR Valve might be stuck.

What year is it exactly. Is the column square with plastic covers or round.

needs change the sensor in the fuel tank

You will find it mounted to the side of the throttle body, but as there are other items very similar a photo will help you. I don't have one, but if you have a parts store handy you could ask to look at one. Once removed, you will find carbon deposits in the passages which will likely be hard and brittle. Use carb cleaner to soak these, then a small screwdriver or knife blade can be used to scrape them out, being careful not to gouge the soft aluminium and special care of the valve tip and seat. Spray out with carb cleaner again. You do not need to get this totally clean, just remove the big stuff. Inspect the passages the valve connects to and clean in the same fashion. Use a shop vac to get as much as you can out of the holes. Use new gaskets as needed to reassemble. Procedure is the same for the EGR.

Run basic troubleshooting tests. Do you have spark at the plugs when cranking? Is fuel pressure correct? Is timing belt broken? Run compression test.

I don't think we can tell you how, you really need to see it done. You might try looking on youtube for a video for a Ford product. You slip the tool between the window glass and the outer door panel, hook the lock rod, and pull up.

WHAT DO YOU MEAN SKIPS? ARE YOU SAYING THAT IT MISSES WHEN DRIVING ALL THOUGH YOU REPLACED THE PLUGS ROTOR YOU MUST DO THE CAP TO IF THE GAP IS TO FAR FOR THE ROTOR TO HIT THE CONTACTS ON THE CAP AS THE MOTOR RPM'S INCREASE THE ROTOR IS SPINNING AND IF THAT GAP IS TO WIDE 1000'S OF AN INCH IT WILL NOT MAKE CONTACT AND MISS AT HIGHER RPM'S LOOK AT THE CONTACTS ON THE INSIDE OF THE CAP YOU WILL SEE CARBON BUILD UP ON THEM AND CLEANING THIS WILL NOT HELP DURING IGNITION IT'S BURNING AWAY THE CONTACT SO AFTER YOU CLEAN THEM THE GAP IS FURTHER AWAY THEN BEFORE BUY A NEW CAP AND IF THIS IS STILL AN ISSUE AFTER THAT IF THE TRUCK'S MOTOR IS A HIGH MILEAGE ONE (100,000 OR MORE) THE PICK UP COIL IN THE DISTRIBUTOR IS THE CULPRIT HERE AND SHOULD BE CHANGED MAKE SURE ALL CONNECTORS ARE CLEAN AND NOT BROKEN OR YOUR GETTING VOLTAGE LEAKS THIS WILL CAUSE A MISS TO USE CARBON CONDUCTIVE GREASE NOT DIELECTRIC AND DON'T USE ALOT EITHER JUST A DAB /SMALL DOT WILL HELP ON THE ELECTRICAL PLUGS AS FOR THE SPARK PLUGS TO MUCH DIELECTRIC GREASE WILL GET HOT AND RUN DOWN THE PLUG/S BRIDGING + TO - AND A MISS WILL HAPPEN HERE'S A COUPLE OF PHOTO'S FOR YOU THE COIL AT THE TOP YOU MIGHT HAVE THE OTHER BARREL KIND NEXT IS THE PICKUP COIL IN THE DISTRIBUTOR AND THE CAP THE UNDERSIDE IS WHAT I WAS EXPLAINING EARLIER THOSE CONTACTS GOOD LUCK AND POST BACK IF PROBLEMS PERSIST AND BE SPECIFIC THIS IS IMPORTANT ABOUT WHAT YOU DID REMEMBER I'M NOT THERE WITH YOU AT THE TRUCK AND I CAN'T LOOK AT IT MYSELF SO I'M RELYING ON YOU FOR THE BEST INFORMATION TO GET TO THE SOLUTION FOR YOU O.K.

it made me to fill hose leaking. or were the fill line hooks to the tank they do make a replacement for the fill line

to reset the proportioning valve try bleeding the master by applying pressure and slowly opening one line at the master until the valve centres. you may have to do the same with the other line to get it to centre, sometimes you have to hit the area where the valve is as it may be stuck to get it to move.

Its your Ingina. coil not allowing the Spark to Amplyfiy itself to start your engine..

look in the positive battery connection. it splits in two, one goes directly to the starter and the other goes to the instruments and ignition, for the description of the problem. I'd say that's where the problem is.

Possible dead spot on starter. Try rapping on the starter with a piece of wood.

What is test 645hc?

check all vacuum hoses for deterioration /hard /loose. Check power brake booster for air leaks with the foot on the brake (idle will drop or stall)

Check the fuel pressure pump is probably bad.

I used to own an 89 Ford F 150 with an inline 6. I went through the same troubles for a couple of months.I swapped out the fuel pump relay in the ignition relay and ran it for about 45 miles and I ended up replacing both relays. Turns out that the ignition relay will call and do this to your vehicle. Not a good thing if you're on an interstate.



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Try an aftermarket gauge and see if it still works. If it does not work then it's definitely your sending unit.

Inertia switch or reset button

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