20 Most Recent 1993 Ford F250 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

You may have lost you brake assist. Look for any disconnected or broken hoses and vacuum leaks especially the one going to the brake booster. make sure that the check valve is good it should allow air through in one direction but not the other. if all checks out good apply vacuum to the power brake booster and make sure it hold if not replace the power brake booster.

Hello

The engine and the automatic transmission (transmission control is only for automatics, engine is still computer controlled no matter the transmission type) in this vehicle are computer controlled and in most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory of the computer control module. There are exception to this, such as the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer replaced (known as the PCM), which is very rarely the problem. Other basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical problems with the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage on the engine. The transmission can have mechanical issues as well such as no gear engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure related problems.

Check to see if the vacuum booster diaphram is leaking internally.

sense its a deisel i would go with the vacume pump, diesels don't put out any or very little vacume, if you don't have vacume than booster won't work hense hard peddel. when you say you let up on peddel and hit it again you got better break tells me it is not getting enought vacume to booster. i would go for the vacume pump.

It might not be on the frame, it depends on what motor you have but it could be in the fuel tanks.

A completely new ignition with keys are only $15.00 at most parts stores.

Rod allways star twith a good ground also take a test light start where you have voltage and where it stops it could be a section of bad wire ford was famous for that

Check out F150OwnersBlog.com or 4x4Owners Blog. It sounds like the actuator inside the transfer case is stuck. If this is the Vacuum shift setup, the plunger inside the 4x4 box is sticking. You also could have low vacuum pressure from a bad Vacuum pump on the engine. The Electric setups worked differently. The voltage running to the underside wires to the shift solenoid had set values to extend and retract the solenoid plunger. Often, a burned out light in the inside Selector switch on the dash would affect the Voltage sent to the solenoid. A silly thing like changing the indicator bulb would restore the proper voltage underneath the truck.Remember to sequence the trans to neutral before engaging some of the transfer cases.I hope my solution is helpful.

Faulty headlight switch

I would suspect you have a problem with ABS control valve if you are sure grease from the rear diff isn't getting on the shoes.

step 1 your going to have to get the codes