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1993 Ford F250 - Page 3 Questions & Answers
My glow plug relay was burnt. I replaced the
i suspect that the true cause for your relay to be burnt up is you have a shortage in your glow plug wires or a bent over /crimped glow rod , if your model is the one I think it is the glow plug wires go underneath the valve covers (trace cable with your fingers) and yes if it does this is a common problem for oil to degrade the insulation and cause a shortage , a device called a snap -on amp clamp would prove this to be in seconds ford had a recall for this and there is a recall repair kit available for this from your dealer
I had to pump my brakes all the way to Florida and
Brake Pump repair (little rings/sealers broken/cheaped inside.),loosing brake oil (can ceck each wheel and the pump).Old brake oil,low brake oil level (may require bleading),loosed bleading screws,grease discs/drums,air in the system.Best guess:pump sealers.
My bolts appear to be
Chipping away at the bolt faces with a screw driver might help. Use '6 face' impact driver sockets only, the 12 corner sockets will round the bolt corners off. Select an open spanner of the correct size and hammer it mildly from the side onto the bolt head. The spanner will chisel the rust off. Spray with WD40 as this helps release the rust. Try each third of the bolt in turn and wire brush it right down to the base. chisel everything off with a small screw driver and light taps with a hammer. Strike the bolt head full on hard with the ball end of a ball pein hammer. Next see if an impact socket next down a size can be hammered on - corrosion can reduce bolt head dimensions; I've experienced many 15mm bolt reduces to a perfect 14mm fit. Use a breaker bar in the socket and make sure the socket is jammed on deeply as it can be. Try tightening the bolt just a degree before trying to release it. If it still resists remove the socket and apply heat to the bolt head with a concentrated blow torch or acetylene flame - the bolt lengthens through thermal expansion and breaks much of the corrosion on the threads. Furthermore, very hot metal has much lower friction than cold metal.
If you strip the head you will need to use a grinder to create new parallel faces to put a spanner or self gripping wrench on. Many times the heat generated by this grinding process is enough to allow the spanner to remove the modified bolt easily. If still no joy grind a flat top to the bolt, drill it and fit a bolt extractor into the drill hole. Never accept defeat from a seized bolt, persistence pays off.
The worst job I ever did of this type was to try and bleed fluid from rusty brake calipers. The bleed nipple just tore off. I drilled what I could and inserted a bolt extractor and the bolt extractor sheared right off. Hardened steel drills just glanced off the imbedded hardened extractor. I used a Dremel with a chain saw sharpening grinding tool and ground out the extractor's tip. Then, like a dentist doing a filling on tooth, I played the grinding tip around in concentric circles until I could see the rusty outline of the bolt threads of the bleed screw in the caliper. I picked the coil like remnants of the bleed screw from the wall of the caliper and bit by bit cleared the whole thing.
" Failure is not an option" go to it!
When I try to start my 93 Ford F250 4x4, when the
If you have to arch the starter solenoid then its your starter goinng bad. It would be a good idea to also get your batterie tested to make sure you have all your bases covered.(starter & Batterie can be tested at your local parts store)
Where is the fuel fiter
The fuel filter is located on the frame under the driver side rocker panel, or door if you are unfamiliar with the vehicle terminology. all you will need is a flat head screw driver and the correct socket to take the fuel filter bracket off with if nessecary, it might just slide out of the bracket.
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