20 Most Recent 1990 Ford F150 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

You need to do a OBD1 fault code test on the EEC4 engine control computer. follow the instructions at the link provided.

Here is the wiring

Lock cylinder is not properly engaging the ignition switch. There is a pushrod from the end of the lock cylinder that moves the slider on the switch. Make sure the pushrod is properly connected to both the cylinder and the switch.

which engine

If you live in cold climate I would recommend 10w30 for winter use, it's a bit thinner and will start better. However if the truck is used hard, such as for towing loads I would use the 10w40. If you live in a warm climate I would use 10w40 all the time.

There may be a fuelpump relay in one of the underhood fuseboxes. You can try some searches for 1988 F150 fusebox diagrams to find the location of the relay. The reset of the inertia sensor (safety switch) was a good try but if the fuel pump relay is bad, there will be nothing to reset because there will be no power. There can also be a crankshaft sensor which needs to generate a signal to tell the fuelpump to run.

https://s11.postimg.org/crrcun103/generator.jpg Click on the link. The diagram shows generator with internal voltage regulator and with external voltage regulator, at the moment, I don't know which one you have? The bat terminal at the generator should be hot even with the key off, is it, use a test light. If no voltage either the fusible link is faulty or the wiring circuit to battery +. You can see fusible links in diagram. Could be other issues, the generator probably needs excite voltage or it won't work. The excite voltage comes from charge indicator circuit. Does the charge lamp on the dash work?

Let me know if this is too small.

On carb, usually passenger side. Most have one wire running to it.

I had same problem with a 90 f250. I unplugged the rear pump. An straight wired the switch. Gas gos bad to fast for me to use 2 tanks. An I filled it w water and antifreeze after cutting the line for extra weight. And Put a locking cap on far as cleaning the tank. I always drop tha tank, pull the pump off, and clean with a rag and new gas. Use a tester an make shire u have power to Gage part of pump connectn. No power its a fuse or ground issue. If u have power, bad sending unit.

Since you have fuel injection for fuel delivery, something has to tell the system how long to have the fuel injectors open, and something has to tell the system when to activate each fuel injector ... unless you have throttle body injection. Do you know which type of fuel injection you have? I will need that answer above before telling you anything useful.

you can--- but that is fixing the symptom , not the problem run the fault codes and look for problem ambient temp sensor , MAF/VAF sensors check for vacuum leaks in brake booster , booster hose , EGR valve , transmission actuator vacuum hose , vent control hose s

Check for a leaking upper intake manifold.

Check the temp. gauge...........is the engine reaching running temp.? Is the radiator full? The overflow tank at proper level? No warm air in defrost? Could be a bad blend door motor(vacuum or electric,probably vacuum). don-ohio (:^)

sure will but none of the connectors will line up and neither will the coolant lines, but relax they do make adaptors , just google adaptors for model number and your see

tHIS SOUNDS LIKE THE SOLENOID IS NOT WORKING CORRECTLY