1990 Ford Escort - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

you and your relays ???their isnt a relay so get the test light out and work your way backwards ,test for a feed to the motor unit first ,then go backwards ,the feed comes from the dip /main side of the light switch

The auto adjuster needs to be released! It should be a knurled nut or notched nut, turn it a bit to close the shoes! When you press the brake pedal after fitting hub and wheels they will automatically reset!

Chances are the pump relay is stuck. It should be in the engine compartment.

If the cruise control is in your steering wheel the many electrical contacts will go through something like brushes in an electrical motor. They touch many metal strips that are stationary and hooked to wires. These can get to be very bad connections over time and may need to be replaced. the wires then continue through your ignition ( a box of multiple switches that turn on when you start your car) The ignition is depressed by a metal rod fro the key cylinder. The ignition often has many failing connections over time and may need to be replaced. Finally the vacuum system powers a governor that pulls on your accelerator cable... so your vacuum system must be in good repair. To keep your vacuum system working look for aging hoses or broken tubes rusting diaphragms... Your dipsticks must be all the way down, your gas cap nice and tight for many things affect your vacuum system.

make sure the car is out of gear then put a spanner on the crankshaft nut to try and turn the engine over. if it wont turn then the engine is most probabl siezed

linkage needs ajust--getta haynes manual atta parts store

Adjust the cable tightness is the first step, the adjustment is at the handle a nut on a threaded rod which is the end of the parking brake cable. Turn the nut in until the brake starts to engage after 3 clicks.

check whether the handbrake cable is working or not. Jack it up on stands and pull handbrake. then the wheel which is the problem strip it and check it inside even asking someone slowly slowly to pull the hand brake and watch to see what is working and what is not, probably the retainers are not working or no collect thickness of brake shoes etc.

to check the fuse it will usually be under the hood driver's side or inside the car under the dash on the drivers side as well and for the age of your car i would drop the tank and check the fuel pump

owners manual should show you

On top of the intake manifold it will have a small hose coming off the bottom of it or it could be mounted directly to top of manifold.They are usally rectangular shaped.1 1/2" x 3"

There is an electric switch located on the driversside opposite of the key switch. Sometimes the rotor contactor wears out. I bejieves

This vehicle should have thumb screws inside the rear of vehicle. Sometimes it is hidden behind carpet turned up in front of them.

1. Disconnect the battery and chock the wheels so that the car cannot roll.
2. Remove all obstructions to the timing belt cover: This can take a while, as there are usually quite a few things in the way. Here's a list of a few common pieces you'll have to remove:
   • Remove the air intake assembly.
   • Loosen the pulley that powers the water pump, if necessary. Some cars require your to remove other equipment such as the power steering pump. If so, remove the belt from the pulley, and unbolt the pump. Move it back out of the way.
   • Remove any other accessories that interfere with access to the timing belt.
3. Use a large wrench on the crankshaft pulley to align the mark on the crankshaft pulley with the 0 on the timing scale molded into the engine block.
4. Remove the timing belt cover bolts and pull the cover off.
5. Check the timing belt tensioner bearings. Replace them if they are loose or noisy.
6. Check the camshaft and crankshaft seals. If they leak, it could cause premature failure of the new timing belt. Replace them if necessary.
7. Make sure that all timing marks are properly aligned, then loosen the timing belt tensioner and remove the timing belt. Do not allow either the camshaft or crankshaft to move while the belt is off.
8. Put the new belt in place. Adjust the tension, if necessary. Make sure that it sits well over the teeth of the timing sprockets. Don't over-tighten.
9. Apply a new gasket to the timing belt cover and replace it.
10. Reinstall all of the accessory pumps that you took off earlier, including the water pump. Many mechanics recommend replacing the water pump while you have it off. It's up to you.
11. Check that all timing marks are still properly aligned.
12. Reinstall the air intake assembly.
13. Reconnect the battery.
14. Start the engine and listen carefully to how it runs. You shouldn't hear any loud knocks if the timing is still correct.

Hopefully this timing belt replacement guide has been helpful. If you allowed the timing to become misaligned while you changed the belt, you have a serious problem on your hands. Either correct the error, or consult a mechanic or car repair shop. Do not operate a vehicle with incorrect timing, as serious internal engine damage could occur.

as long as the car is running the fuel pump is working/running also.

american is AM uk is FM ,but havent a clue as to what side bands to use or whatever i have a superstar 360 on my boat and i havent used it for so long i have forgotton how to obtain the UK frequencys ,i can skip to truck drivers in teh US but ??? comes with old age ,anyway the way i do it is to use a swr meter but another way is to key up on channel 1 and watch meter and then 40 and whichever way the needles doesnt show full you adjust length of aerial accordingly .do hope this has refreshed your memory a bit .Best of british with it anyway

All really depends how fast you was going when it snapped, the best thing to do is try turning the engine over slowly by hand to see if it moves freely and nothing is banging or knocking, if that is successful then you can try and just put a new belt on and see if it fires up and runs smooth,, but to be honest the chances of doing internal damage is imminent, could be cracked head bent valves ect but i would try the belt first before you start dismantling anything
Hope this helps
Steve

No good news here. You need to have the transmission checked. This could be just low fluid level but if the fluid is good you have a transmission problem and will need to be repaired. It could be something as simple as a fluid and filter change. Just don't let them back flush the system with the synthetic machine. It cost $50 to $60 for a regular Fluid and Filter change at a shop. Typically they charge $140 or more to use the machine and you usually end up rebuilding the transmission within 6 months of them doing that.

I have seen some gas addditive stuff at the autoparts store that can temporaily get the numbers better for a test.

The pully ( harmonic ballancer) must be removed in order to gain access to the timming belt...
Take the wheel off and the plastic shield off.... and you should find that you have room for a tool on that pully afterall.