1989 Ford Crown Victoria - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

universel joint is worn on the drive shaft thank you pierre

look under your cars hood, and on the drivers side, look for a blackbox, that is indentified as fuses or relays, look inside , the fuel pump relay switch should be visable, you can also look into your owners manual, this item should be listed to refer by.

A sensor failed or sense an error from your engine sensors

Need more than that

It does nothing?
It clicks?
It turns over only

Has any testing been done and how?

We cannot answer a no start if you
have no spark for example and haven't
done any thing
Do you have fuel ?

What is the vehicles history up till
this problem?

Here is a picture of the vac lines for your year:

It should be in front of the gas tank by top side.

Not knowing your milage or what part of the country you live in if they use salt on the roads. The leak is coming form the three fuel lines going into the gas tank and fuel pump. The fuel pump is inside of the gas tank secured by a large slip ring seal. From the years gone by these lines rust and since they are under pressure they will leak through. You will have to drop your gas tank to get to this. This is a ugly all day expensive job. Replace the fuel pump which comes with the new seal and fuel lines assembly. I could sit here and tell you the step by step procedure but that will take hours. The very best thing you can do is buy a Haynes repair manual for your car and year at any auto parts store @ Advanced, Autozone. Read the step by step in the manual. I have used these for 40 years with all my vehicles and saved tons of cash in labor costs. Be prepared to replace the gas tank straps and additional fuel lines depending on how bad the rust is.
Good luck and thanks for your question and I hope my suggestions help. Don't forget to rate me.
burdfrenzy
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fuel sensor in tank is most likely bad or damaged

misunderstanding what your asking do you want to no how to change your egr or have you changed your egr and it still throws code

If you are sitting behind the steering wheel like you are going to drive,Its on bottom of Sterring and above brake padle

Most likely the Float in the tank is bad and to find the Float,Put the car on a Car Rack get under at the tank and it should have a place on upper left to REPLACE THE fLOAT,BUT YOU NEED TO GET MOST OF GAS OUT OF TANK and good luck on finding a float for 89 Crown Vick.

replace head light switch

First I need a little more info. Outsde of where. From under the engine or under the coolant tank

check fuel pressure. 35-40 psi

Welcome to FIxYa.com

I hope i read the info you sent correctly that the brake light is staying on now? Ok if so check the brake light switch located at the brake pedal under dash( See Fig) and replace this switch. with a new one.

Thank you for using FixYa.com

Regards, Lee Davidian

You will need to disconnect the battery cable...doing this in a dark area is helpful, but while doing this watch for spark. Touch the terminal to the battery a couple of times to determine the spark. If you see a spark, you have a drain. Now, you will have to go to your fuse panel and start unplugging one fuse at a time while repeating the process at the battery until the spark stops. After, you find out which fuse is causing the drain, you will now have to look on the panel or Shop electrical manual and see what this fuse supplies and now start disconnecting the devices that are on that circuit until you have found that source of your problem. It may take a while to eliminate the device, so you might want to just unplug the fuse that you found at fault every night until you encounter the correct componet.

egr= exhaust gas recirculation valve

Hi, under the dashboard, a bit above your left foot.

Try cleaning the injectors... http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=82 will give a few ideas on how to do a cleaning. Other than a cleaning, you need to be sure that the injectors are receiving the signal to operate, this is tested with a noid light.
Other than that, if you still want to replace the injectors, first relieve fuel system pressure by: 1) Look in the trunk for the fuel pump shut off switch. Turn it off.
2) start the car and let it run and stall out (should not take long)
3) Now the fuel system is depressurized
Now you can go in and begin the removal. 1) remove air intake plenum (on 5.0 it is the metal swept to one side looking thing on top of the engine)
2) remove the fuel rail assembly (you will need fuel line couple tools to make this happen, otherwise trying to improvise one will damage the coupling and give you a fuel leak)
3) Detach the electrical connectors from each injector (be careful and gentile like)
4) Grip the entire fuel injector with one hand and pull while gently rocking it back and forth. Don't yank, use a stern wiggle
5) First check once you get the injector out will be the O-rings, look for deterioration cracks or other signs of boo. (In general, replacing the O-rings is recommended once you have the injector removed)
6) Inspect the injector for signs of wear, and deterioration or breakage (if broken, you may want to investigate your manifold for the offending pieces)
Reinstall: 1) Lubricate the O-rings (use light oil only...no grease/silicone, they will clog the injector)
2) Lightly twist the injectors into place.
3) replace the previously removed parts
Tips: Recommend using a digital camera before and during your procedure. That way you have a photo reference of what things looked like before they were disassembled as well as what the progress was like, and you can refer to your own photo guide as you work.

If you have more than 100,000 miles use high mileage oil. In the spring and summer use 10w30 and if it gets bellow -20 where you live use 5w30 in the winter