20 Most Recent 2001 Ford Explorer Sport - Page 8 Questions & Answers

i would check fuel pressure key on engine off should be around 40 psi if thats good it sounds like bad IAC valve idle air control valve

Have a repair shop make the repairsCan't use it like thatSomething is broken to extent you shouldbe able to see it without much trouble

At the intake large rubber hose. Or, at the air filter canister.

push clips in and pull wire out.

I had a clip break when I tried to open my tailgate. I had to remove my inside hatch panel and find my way to the handle assembly. A little plastic clip (shaped like a T) had finally worn out, which wouldn't hold the locking arms, and I had to go to a Ford dealership for a $3 part; tailgate has worked fine since then!

No--why are you changing a master cylinder ?I just take out the piston & clean out the moisture,then flush the entire system, all 4 cornersAfter that-- I do my brake work & then bleed all4 cornersThat has worked for me for 50 years, doing brake workIn the 1960's you could get repair kits for the master

look where your jack is and using a flashlight shine it up towards the wheelwell and you will see a set of numbers thats your keyles entry code for your explorer

Generic electric moduel it mostly controls your speedometer. But if it keep on not doing right and no wiers are touching test them first make sure you dont have problem there. than yes change it

If there is a Auto Zone around your area, have them scan the Explorer for any DTC codes since it's fee of charge. But in the mean time buy a can of MAF cleaner and follow the instructions and also buy a can of Trottle body cleaner and follow the instructions on the can. Clean the MAF and the Throttle body, also try to get the Idle Air Control falve cleaned too which is on the throttle body. So use up the whole can of Throttle body cleaner and it would not hurt to use two cans. Once everything is cleaned that should fix the problem, the other thing to that would cause your poor idle and stalling is a bad or dirty EGR valve which can be cleaned with Carburetor cleaner since it's stronger then the Throttle body cleaner, just remove the EGR and spray the Carbon build away and place back in place. Note: the Carb cleaner is to strong for the gaskets used on the throttle body so don't use it on the throttle body. Good luck and this should help get your Explorer running 100% soon.

I am sorry...Your problem is?

Possible that fuel injector is leaking down, fuel system losing prime If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/edward_020b3320326d263d

The fuel pump would have been one of the first checksat the shop,either with a gauge on the motors shradervalve on fuel rail or scan tool dataDoubt Battery & Alternator failed at same timeSpark Plugs for future reference, get replaced every 3 years,notto hope for a solution to the unknown. They never fail to firethey only wear outIf your fuel trim on a scan tool is the same on both banks of the motor,then the MAF Sensor isn't where your going, until may other items have been checked & tested90% of all computers returned to the suppliers have nothing wrong with themWhat does that tell you,most fail from improper testing & loading themin a way to allow more than a few thousands of an amp to get to themAll that is avail to learn on You Tube VideoCould be a bad & blocked exhaust converter, ruined from years of of cylinder misfires or a bad egr valveHope you chose your doctors better than the shop that humped youNeed 40# Fuel PressureNo Ignition MisfiresNo Vacuum Leaks-anywhere- so smoke test entire vehicleWorking EGR & PCVWorking front O2 Sensors- with good switching timesAlternator may be new- but can't have A/C ripple on circuits,may go thrua couple rebuilts to find a good oneBack probe TPS Sensor or look at scan tool dataRoad test with scan tool in Mode#06 for misfire counts on all cylFind a shop that does all that